Versas are dirt cheap new, so I would think they're also dirt cheap used.
Looking for a super economical car, accent ?
- Thread starter sirgerman
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: Al
Originally Posted By: sirgerman
do you have to replace the timing belt every 60K ? or can it last longer ?
The belt fails bc the water pump, idlers, or tensioner fail. Subaru is the poster child for an argument against belts. In Subaru's case they recommend belt replacement at 105K miles.. Replacing the belt only is ignorant. Subaru people recommend replacing belt, idlers, tensioner and Water pump. That's what I did.
I would think that a belt would go longer than 60K with no problem. In subaru's case the belt drives 4 cams and a water pump and has a very torturous path, If it can go 60K any other belt can probably go longer. That's just a guess though.
On the Accent the water pump is driven by a V belt.
Originally Posted By: sirgerman
do you have to replace the timing belt every 60K ? or can it last longer ?
The belt fails bc the water pump, idlers, or tensioner fail. Subaru is the poster child for an argument against belts. In Subaru's case they recommend belt replacement at 105K miles.. Replacing the belt only is ignorant. Subaru people recommend replacing belt, idlers, tensioner and Water pump. That's what I did.
I would think that a belt would go longer than 60K with no problem. In subaru's case the belt drives 4 cams and a water pump and has a very torturous path, If it can go 60K any other belt can probably go longer. That's just a guess though.
On the Accent the water pump is driven by a V belt.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
On the Accent the water pump is driven by a V belt.
OK..but my point was that Subarus' use of the belt is as bad as it gets and if it can go 105K, probably every belt on the planet can.
On the Accent the water pump is driven by a V belt.
OK..but my point was that Subarus' use of the belt is as bad as it gets and if it can go 105K, probably every belt on the planet can.
The first time I changed the belt on the Accent I was told to look for grease being thrown out of the idler bearing. It was. But no way would I put off changing the belt as it is easily done at home with some tools and know how in about 4 hours.
Failure of the belt is a big money expense. Luckily for those who ignore you can now get rebuilt heads from Rock Auto. And my Gen Coupe has a timing chain. The early versions suffered from chain stretch. I had a Triumph TR7 that has a chain and it broke. Needed a new head.
Failure of the belt is a big money expense. Luckily for those who ignore you can now get rebuilt heads from Rock Auto. And my Gen Coupe has a timing chain. The early versions suffered from chain stretch. I had a Triumph TR7 that has a chain and it broke. Needed a new head.
Originally Posted By: Al
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
On the Accent the water pump is driven by a V belt.
OK..but my point was that Subarus' use of the belt is as bad as it gets and if it can go 105K, probably every belt on the planet can.
That assumes all belts are designed the same way (same thickness, cords per inch, etc).
Also: the parts around it have to go the distance. One gotcha on the TDI's was that in order to get to 100k, the roller and tensioner needed to be the 100k parts too. Those part numbers were not the same, all the wear items were somehow upgraded to go the distance.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
On the Accent the water pump is driven by a V belt.
OK..but my point was that Subarus' use of the belt is as bad as it gets and if it can go 105K, probably every belt on the planet can.
That assumes all belts are designed the same way (same thickness, cords per inch, etc).
Also: the parts around it have to go the distance. One gotcha on the TDI's was that in order to get to 100k, the roller and tensioner needed to be the 100k parts too. Those part numbers were not the same, all the wear items were somehow upgraded to go the distance.
Even on the problem prone valve crasher engines that I'm aware of, like certain Daewoo engines, one which was used in ~1998-2003 Isuzu Rodeos (4cyl), the belt was never the problem. It was an idler pulley issue that would cause the belt to fail.
Point is, is rarely, if ever the belt. More likely one of the rotating elements the belt has to work with.
Point is, is rarely, if ever the belt. More likely one of the rotating elements the belt has to work with.
Tell me more about the Nissan Versa, 1.8 how good in the engine ?
I think the Versa and other $10k cars are a pretty good deal new as once they get into the $5k and below used market, bells and whistle, bigger engines, etc don't add any value anymore. Probably after 5 years it will be worth more than $5k, so you get new car reliability for $1k/year in depreciation.
Yep
https://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchresu...sting-673613411
search for 'new' and sort by lowest price. (forgot you're not in CA - use your own zip on car.som and autotrader, then do some let work.)
Versas seem to win.
Although it might be worth seeing if these are real prices:
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/673613411/overview/
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/669840035/overview/
to get into a 'better' econobox for the same price as a Versa.
Its "double" your $5k budget, but buying a brand new car for $10k, is likely going to be cheaper if you keep it long enough.
https://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchresu...sting-673613411
search for 'new' and sort by lowest price. (forgot you're not in CA - use your own zip on car.som and autotrader, then do some let work.)
Versas seem to win.
Although it might be worth seeing if these are real prices:
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/673613411/overview/
https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/669840035/overview/
to get into a 'better' econobox for the same price as a Versa.
Its "double" your $5k budget, but buying a brand new car for $10k, is likely going to be cheaper if you keep it long enough.
Still looking sirgerman? I like one of your first choices, that being an Echo... I'm a courier/pizza driver and have done my homework regarding the economics of driving. My favorite is the Echo for overall cost, reliability, and even fun factor. Great visibility as well. The Echo is a few hundred pounds lighter than a Yaris and slightly more fuel efficient. If your location is California then it might be a little difficult to find one. If the Ca in your location stands for Canada then they're are plenty of Echos around, they never caught on in America because of the Scion factor, But if you look hard there should be something in Cali even if you have to travel a bit...
www.youtube.com/watch?v=_V56sBMwuuM
www.youtube.com/watch?v=_V56sBMwuuM
Surprised no one said a Gen 2 "North American version" Ford Focus. 35mpg+ on the highway, a bit longer and more comfortable. Reliability is decent but no Corolla (better than a Saturn) If you can find a 5speed 2-door, they are the cheapest of the group and decent cars. These also a conventional automatic I think compared to the third-gen focus. They sold well initially due to the economy so you should have some decent options available.
Because "subcompacts" really do not get that good of gas mileage compared to their slightly larger "compact" brethren, I would keep to a slightly larger vehicle with 100 miles of commuting. They will likely be built better too. Elanta over the accent, Corolla over the Echo/Yaris
Because "subcompacts" really do not get that good of gas mileage compared to their slightly larger "compact" brethren, I would keep to a slightly larger vehicle with 100 miles of commuting. They will likely be built better too. Elanta over the accent, Corolla over the Echo/Yaris
- Status
