Longer distance towing.

[tomcat27]

I'm not sure that you will need to run in "tow" mode. I used to pull a 6000 lb boat + 5 people and gear with my 5.3 Suburban. a duty now relegated to my Ram.

as far as brakes - for most situations you wont really need them - BUT if you get in an accident and the other party has a good lawyer....

 

[OtisBlkR1]

Originally Posted By: tomcat27
I'm not sure that you will need to run in "tow" mode. I used to pull a 6000 lb boat + 5 people and gear with my 5.3 Suburban. a duty now relegated to my Ram.

as far as brakes - for most situations you wont really need them - BUT if you get in an accident and the other party has a good lawyer....


well, ill see how it goes on the flat land's.. A buddy of mine taught me along time ago that you can get up to running speed and then slip it into OD to save fuel.. but we will see, sure its going to cost me some MPG to run in tow mode the whole way, but atleast i know its safe.. i dunno, feel it out and see how it goes..

 

[Kuato]

We towed a 5000 lb Uhaul through the mountains of WV last summer in 95* heat, in the 6 cylinder Grand Cherokee in my sig. There's one grade on Route 64 that is the steepest and longest in the state; coolant temp got nearly into the red as we came up to the top, in 1st gear and 30mph but that was the only issue in the mountains.

Just keep an eye on the temp gauge, plan to use one gear lower than you are used to, and don't shy away from pulling over to let things cool if it gets too hot. And on downhill stretches, gearing down as mentioned above is

.

Oil should be fine for the trip.

 

[QuadDriver]

best advice I can give you is add a set of 10" or larger surge brakes.

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: gfh77665

Leave the tow/haul button ON for the whole trip, flatlands included. No need to "let things cool off". Your temp gauge on your instrument cluster can monitor things.


X2. It will be much easier on your trans and help keep temps low if you use tow/haul all the time when towing. All you will sacrifice is maybe a MPG or two, and I'd gladly give that up for longer trans life. The truck being able to do it isn't the issue, it's the wear on your trans and the shifting characteristics. Just press the button and use it...it's not that much gas.

 

[eljefino]

I'm not even sure you'll lose much MPG in "tow haul", it uses all the gears and shifts firmer. Shift points might move up in RPM slightly but it's mostly how your trans needs to shift to preserve itself. In fact the only reason to turn it off is passenger comfort, and you can't tell the difference anyway.

Be careful on mountain switchbacks slowing down into turns, that trailer's gonna want to keep going.

 

[Fleetmon]

I towed a Jeep Cherokee with a Dodge Dakota from Houston to York Pa (1800 miles) in the middle of summer and the truck was heavily loaded with two generators, air compressor and a garages-worth of fluids, jacks and things and the Jeep was loaded to the gills with household items plus 600# of ammunition the movers wouldn't take. I kept a close eye on the temp gauge but no issues there and checked the trans several times with my temp gun and never say temps higher than 220'F. I changed all fluids including the trans after the tow.

I agree with the brakes....that was the only thing I didn't have on my trip.....brakes!

 

[ARB1977]

I towed 4000 lbs in my V6 Tacoma 1500 miles..... I'm sure you'll be fine.

 

[supton]

IIRC tow/haul mode does make the transmission more aggressive in regards to lockup. Which is probably the biggest issue facing you, transmission temperature. Run for extended periods of time unlocked and trans temp will be very high. I'd recommend finding some way to monitor trans temperature; a Scangauge or Ultragauge (one of the later ones, earlier Ultragauges did not do ATF temp) would be an easy way. That, or just listening and making sure it stays locked up.

As far as running overdrive, sure, use it. Use D if it keeps hunting, or worse, attempting to run OD and unlocked. On flat ground though I suspect you can pull overdrive, unless if you have super tall gearing.

But at 4k loading, I suspect you're good to go and probably need to do nothing. After all, you have new fresh ATF. You could probably do this, day in and day out, for the next 30k and not worry about cooking the transmission. Let alone a one time trip.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Consult the owner's manual about when trailer brakes are required. It will likely give a weight over which you need brakes on the trailer. I'd highly recommend that you heed this warning. As stated at least once above, lawyers are no joke, and there's no reason to give anyone the opportunity to use your equipment against you. The truck will be fine. Use the tow/haul switch on the transmission lever and leave it in tow/haul mode for the whole trip.

But definitely investigate the issue of trailer brakes. It may be that your owner's manual says you don't need them until you reach 5,000 pounds. But if you need then beyond 2,000 pounds, and you're running that trailer overloaded...it's just not worth the risk (to me).

 

[supton]

I'm guessing it's at 2,000lb that brakes are "required". That said, with all the weight on the truck, those brakes will be desirable even below 2k towed. Problem is, adding electric brakes would be on the order of 300 at least, and that is assuming the trailer axle is ready for brakes (if it has a metal plate behind the hub, with four bolt holes in it, good; if no backing plate, need a different axle).

I looked at adding trailer brakes to my camper, and while I forgot the prices it was upwards of that cost; or maybe I'm including a tire upgrade too... Forget now. Northern Tool et al have that stuff listed.

For reference, my VW requires trailer brakes at 1,300lb (1,340 or some metric conversion like that), while my Tundra "requires" trailer brakes at 1,000lb towed. I think Toyota might default to requiring brakes at 1k across the board, while Chevy might have a higher rating. YMMV.

 

[OtisBlkR1]

Originally Posted By: supton
I'm guessing it's at 2,000lb that brakes are "required". That said, with all the weight on the truck, those brakes will be desirable even below 2k towed. Problem is, adding electric brakes would be on the order of 300 at least, and that is assuming the trailer axle is ready for brakes (if it has a metal plate behind the hub, with four bolt holes in it, good; if no backing plate, need a different axle).

I looked at adding trailer brakes to my camper, and while I forgot the prices it was upwards of that cost; or maybe I'm including a tire upgrade too... Forget now. Northern Tool et al have that stuff list
For reference, my VW requires trailer brakes at 1,300lb (1,340 or some metric conversion like that), while my Tundra "requires" trailer brakes at 1,000lb towed. I think Toyota might default to requiring brakes at 1k across the board, while Chevy might have a higher rating. YMMV.


I pulled my Hubs and repacked my bearing today and yes i observed the backing plate with the 4 Holes.. but I dont think im going to add the brakes, the trailer itself is 850 LBS with two bikes with max weight of 450LBS each so 900 lbs of bikes in the bed and 900 in the trailer, that puts me at roughly 1750 lbs being towed in the trailer (although there may be up to 200ish lbs of gear on the trailer for roughly 2,000 lbs totall.

A few years back a buddy of mine took his 1500 with two bikes in the bed and one on a slightly smaller trailer and it towed withough a thought, i recall the truck didnt even seem to be working (struggling) even through the mountains it was a piece of cake..

Im travelling south from Terre Haute Indiana through Kentucky and hitting the Pennrail, I wont be crossing directly over the smoky mountains but will be covering plenty of the the foothills and going through Deals Gap to Robbinsville NC. Ive made this trip 20+ times over the past 10 years, with two bikes on a trailer being pulled and two bikes in the bed, ive just never done it with Both (4 bikes) I know that its never been a problem before and the trucks always pulled fine, this is simply more weight than im used to.

I truly appreciate everyone input on this topic, im sure i wont have a issue, i will follow the advice of using the tow haul mode button the whole way (no point in killing my truck trying to save gas) I will let the truck do what its suppose to and not worry about it. If i notice anything getting warm i will simply pullover for a bit and let it cool off.

Down the road a may opt for a larger trailer with brakes, and a 2500 truck, but hauling 4 crotch rockets 500 miles using a 10 foot utility trailer should be Gravy.

 

[OtisBlkR1]

ALSO: i forgot to mention a friend borrowed this trailer from me and hauled a heavier load to the same destination last year, i asked him how it pulled and he said he couldnt hardly tell it was even there.. he however was driving a 3500 Turbo diesel cargo van. He had two bikes in the van and two bikes on the trailer, one of the bikes being a Big Harley. He had no trouble with the brakes.

 

[OtisBlkR1]

Well, i broke out my manual, my K-1500 extended cab short box 4X4 has a Maxium trailer weight of 7,700 lbs and a GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) (truck and trailer) of 13,000 lbs

to sum this back up:

the truck will have approximately 800lbs of passengers and 900 lbs worth of bikes in the bed (roughly) 1,700lbs

The trailer itself weights roughly 850-1,000lbs with mods, and two additional bikes for another 900lbs (with gear packed onto trailer to, lets call that roughly another 200lbs) So on the high end 2,100 lbs total combined trailer weight.

Roughly 3,800 total Lbs between the truck and the trailer and cargo..

My owners manual says sway controll devices and weight distributing devices are only needed when your ((trailer)) is loaded and hauling more than 5,000 lbs..

My point fellas is im trying to cure problems before i have them and frankly i think if the trailer and truck are properly loaded im going to be fine without adding a single thing. The RV dealer was watering at the mouth to sell me a weight distributing hitch claiming im hauling enuff and he thinks i need it.. I think he needs my $300 ??

Im taking my trailer to the RV shop and letting the experts take the hubs appart and inspect, replace, re-grease, etc.. so i know and have peace of mind knowing my axle isnt going to explode 500 miles from home..

If i can before this trip im going to load this all up and just do a test run down the highway to see how it all tows.. I have a feeling ive already made a mountain out of a ant hill..

I will continue to update this thread.

 

[JayhawkRoy]

I have owned and driven trailers at the weight level you describe without weight distribution equalizers or sway bars. No issues and no problems. I have done it with half ton and one ton pickups.

Take some long rest runs with the weight you intend to haul and see how it goes. I suspect you will find the load OK without sway bars or equalizer.

 

[OtisBlkR1]

Tow/haul mode: is designed to be most effective when the vehicle and trailer combined weight is atleast 75% of the vehicles (GCWR) Gross combined weight rating.. Tow haul is only recomended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a large heavy load..

Im stopping at my local Chevy dealer tomorrow and asking some questions.. my weight on this trip is roughly 9,300 lbs and my GCWR is 13,000lbs so im right on that 75% boarderas 9,750 is 75% obviously im going to be using this feature in the mountains.. I will seek Chevy's recomendation for the flat land use.. but im thinking that most the recomendations of using it 100% of the time are on the mark.

I truly appreciate everyone input on this topic.

 

[OtisBlkR1]

Thats part of the plan sir, much thanks.

 

[cchase]

I would say to use Tow/Haul mode if you notice the transmission unlocking and locking too frequently.

 

[OtisBlkR1]

Called dealership today and there recomending even though im not up to the 75% marker that i go ahead and use tow/haul the whole way.. so thats one less thing to question.

 

[Nate1979]

If you can add a friction sway bar it could help a little. Weight distribution is not needed with that weight in my experience. Otherwise I would add that you might be over your GVWR when you add gas and the tongue weight. Take care.