Kawasaki changed their oil recommendations

[bmwpowere36m3]

Originally Posted By: LX289
Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
The wider the viscosity-spread... the quicker it breaks down (the viscosity that its). Starts 0W-40 and quickly becomes 0W-20.


Ohhh didn't know that ok thanks just learned something new.



Well, now necessarily 20W... just making a point. It shears down quicker than a mono-grade oil.

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
The wider the viscosity-spread... the quicker it breaks down (the viscosity that its). Starts 0W-40 and quickly becomes 0W-20.


Gee, really? It doesn't do that in my BMW.

How quickly does it do that? I've only gone around 8,000 miles or so, maybe it will take longer or only happens in generators and stuff like that?


You know what I meant... otherwise everyone be running 0W-30,40,50 in everything. It has its trade-offs. Thinner isn't necessarily better. I also wouldn't compare an engine in a passenger vehicle to an OPE one, in terms of oil demands.

 

[SHOZ]

I am gyrating to M1 0w30 EP for all my engines. Just need to run out the stock on hand.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I am gyrating to M1 0w30 EP for all my engines. Just need to run out the stock on hand.


Post a video or go home.

 

[The motor guy]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
The wider the viscosity-spread... the quicker it breaks down (the viscosity that its). Starts 0W-40 and quickly becomes 0W-20.


Gee, really? It doesn't do that in my BMW.

How quickly does it do that? I've only gone around 8,000 miles or so, maybe it will take longer or only happens in generators and stuff like that?


Your Bmer has an oil cooler and holds about 10 quarts of oil on a tiny 3.0 liter engine. Compared to small engine that runs at 250 degree oil temps on 1/2-2 quarts depending on the size.

 

[JimPghPA]

Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
The wider the viscosity-spread... the quicker it breaks down (the viscosity that its). Starts 0W-40 and quickly becomes 0W-20.


Gee, really? It doesn't do that in my BMW.

How quickly does it do that? I've only gone around 8,000 miles or so, maybe it will take longer or only happens in generators and stuff like that?


Your Bmer has an oil cooler and holds about 10 quarts of oil on a tiny 3.0 liter engine. Compared to small engine that runs at 250 degree oil temps on 1/2-2 quarts depending on the size.


The BMW is a water cooled engine. OPE is air cooled and the oil in an air cooled engine runs at a higher temperature.

 

[Bror Jace]

”It's pretty obvious where a 15W-40 oil would be considered acceptable based on this chart. If you want to fault them for only recommending the oils that they sell, then you may as well fault GM for requiring a Dexos approval.”

I would have no problem faulting GM for requiring Dexos coolant in their cars … but isn't Dexos a different chemistry?

Thinking s'more about this, I m sticking with my original theory that this update has more to do with Kawasaki's marketing than giving useful information to owners on how to maintain their engines.

Why else feature an "updated" chart featuring obsolescent oil weights?

Just a couple months ago we had a poster in this subforum asking about oil recommendations for his piece of OPE. He appreciated our well-reasoned advice but was reluctant to follow it as 15W-40 was not listed among the recommended oil.

If Kawasaki really wanted to be helpful, they should have included the most popular weights and show their recommended uses on the chart … not leaving owners guessing. Most BITOGians will be able to figure this out … but regular people will at least have serious doubts. Manufacturers recommendations should remove doubts, not add to them.

As for wide viscosity spread oils, I would say they tend to shear them down quicker than narrow spread oils. Example: a mower run in the summer heat tends to shear down 0W-30 oils quicker than 10W-30 oil. There are a lot of variables in play so saying anything for certain is a bit dubious. But I agree with most posters here that prefer low-spread viscosity oils for air-cooled OPE.

And I'm still waiting for the gyrating-to-Mobil-1 video.

 

[LX289]

Kawasaki's will run forever just about with any reasonable synthetic oil you put in them regardless. I have run the Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 and it is the best change done yet to my lawnmower. I have an old John Deere 14se with the little Kawasaki FC-150V motor in it and it is still going strong. When I made the switch, I noticed quiet running than before. I used to run Valvoline synthetic in it. The properties of the oil is what makes it good. The Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro is able to handle turbo temps which in my mind is alot more than a a piece air cooled OPE of any sort.

 

[NH73]

Originally Posted By: LX289
Kawasaki's will run forever just about with any reasonable synthetic oil you put in them regardless. I have run the Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 and it is the best change done yet to my lawnmower. I have an old John Deere 14se with the little Kawasaki FC-150V motor in it and it is still going strong. When I made the switch, I noticed quiet running than before. I used to run Valvoline synthetic in it. The properties of the oil is what makes it good. The Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro is able to handle turbo temps which in my mind is alot more than a a piece air cooled OPE of any sort.


What do you call reasonable? Would you consider any xw30 reasonable?

 

[TiredTrucker]

I would. All my JD 445 zero turn with an air cooled Kaw motor, except for the initial 8 hr fill, has gotten is the Amsoil ASE 10w30/30w. Mows 2.5 acres every time it gets used.

 

[Plum]

I have an older LX178 John Deere lawn tractor that has a liquid cooled 15 hp Kawasaki engine in it. Can I safely use a API SN / SAE 30 wt. oil in it ? THX?

 

[TiredTrucker]

I had one of those about 10 years ago. I used a 10w30 in it also. The engine outlasted the mower.

 

[NH73]

Originally Posted By: Plum
I have an older LX178 John Deere lawn tractor that has a liquid cooled 15 hp Kawasaki engine in it. Can I safely use a API SN / SAE 30 wt. oil in it ? THX?


Yes, you can safely use an API SN oil. I would use a 10w30 conventional, or any xw30 full synthetic. You can buy full synthetic oil on sale for cheaper than Kawasaki's oil. Since your engine is liquid cooled your oil won't get as hot as the air cooled ones.

 

[Merkava_4]

Look at where 5W-20 is at! People should go by that chart with their cars!

 

[Plum]

Thanks, I put Havoline SAE 30 API SN in it. I have put Briggs & Stratton 30 wt. in it in the past but didn't have any left this time. Does anyone know anything about Power Care oil from Home Depot ? Also, I have a qt. of either Rural King or Tractor Supply non-detergent 30 wt. that has an API SA rating. According to what the API site said this is oil for motors made before 1920 ? Confused.

 

[Plum]

THX.

 

[NH73]

Originally Posted By: Plum
Thanks, I put Havoline SAE 30 API SN in it. I have put Briggs & Stratton 30 wt. in it in the past but didn't have any left this time. Does anyone know anything about Power Care oil from Home Depot ? Also, I have a qt. of either Rural King or Tractor Supply non-detergent 30 wt. that has an API SA rating. According to what the API site said this is oil for motors made before 1920 ? Confused.


Actually, its 1930 or before. Just don't use that.

 

[LX289]

Originally Posted By: NH73
Originally Posted By: LX289
Kawasaki's will run forever just about with any reasonable synthetic oil you put in them regardless. I have run the Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 and it is the best change done yet to my lawnmower. I have an old John Deere 14se with the little Kawasaki FC-150V motor in it and it is still going strong. When I made the switch, I noticed quiet running than before. I used to run Valvoline synthetic in it. The properties of the oil is what makes it good. The Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro is able to handle turbo temps which in my mind is alot more than a a piece air cooled OPE of any sort.


What do you call reasonable? Would you consider any xw30 reasonable?


Yes any xw30 I would call reasonable. That is what I used to use. We live in cooler weather and don't require a heavy grade oil. Here in the Midwest I think that any xw30 would be reasonable. I wouldn't run a 0w-20 or 5w-20 oil in it though. Wayy to thin IMO.

 

[LX289]

Originally Posted By: Plum
Thanks, I put Havoline SAE 30 API SN in it. I have put Briggs & Stratton 30 wt. in it in the past but didn't have any left this time. Does anyone know anything about Power Care oil from Home Depot ? Also, I have a qt. of either Rural King or Tractor Supply non-detergent 30 wt. that has an API SA rating. According to what the API site said this is oil for motors made before 1920 ? Confused.


Use any 30wt. you can find. Just don't use the non-detergent oil. Use a detergent oil. You can run a 10w-30 if you don't have any 30wt.

 

[LX289]

Originally Posted By: Plum
I have an older LX178 John Deere lawn tractor that has a liquid cooled 15 hp Kawasaki engine in it. Can I safely use a API SN / SAE 30 wt. oil in it ? THX?


Do you run it in cold temps like 32* and below? If you do go to a 10w-30, but if you don't than you can use a straight 30wt. oil.

 

[Merkava_4]

Small engine manufacturers are a lot smarter than car manufacturers when it comes to oil it seems like.