Kawasaki changed their oil recommendations

[NH73]

Originally Posted By: Buzzsaw
I was just looking on the Kawasaki webpage and saw that they have updated and changed their oil recommendation chart. It shows that 10w40 has the widest operating range now. Too bad they don't have a 15w40 listed but I'm going to keep on rocking some Rotella.

New chart:

Old chart:

[URL]http://www.kawasakienginesusa.com/engine/accessories/kawasaki-4-cycle-engine-oil[/url]

Anyone have a new Kawai engine with anything other than 30w or 10w30 recommended on the dipstick?


I believe the best thing they did was drop the straight 40 weight recommendation, and replaced it with the 20w50. I just don't know why don't recognize HDEO's and synthetic. I once said that according to there recommendation, you shouldn't have no problems using 15w40 down to 32 degrees. I based that on that according to the old recommendation, the straight 30 weight was recommended down to 32 degrees, but not with the new one. But the 20w50 is now recommended down 32 degrees, which is thicker than 15w40. I now run 5w30 in my Kawi, maybe I should consider going to a 0w40 or 5w40.

 

[SHOZ]

I use 0w40 M1 in my John Deere with a Kawasaki motor. It also shares the oil in the hydraulic pump below the motor. The oils do not normally mix.

On a drain only two quarts comes out. To get a full change I then have to add another 2 quarts. But the oil stays so clean I only do 2 quarts a year now.

 

[Bror Jace]

The new chart is probably a bit of an improvement over the old one ... but not much.

The chart's recommendations are confusing. 10W-40 and 20W-50 are being slowly phased out by both the oil industry and engine manufacturers for most applications ... but they are on the chart. Go to a farm supply store and one of the most common weights is 15W-40 and it's not on the chart. Huh?

Synthetic 5W-40 is also fairly common and should be on the chart. What about 5W-30 ... which is one of the most common weights found anywhere in North America. and the 0W/20/30/40 weights? These are ideal for below freezing operation.

Speaking of which, the chart does not distinguish between conventional and synthetics (or blends). Given the quality of today's "conventional" oils, I don't think there's a world of difference ... but maybe 10 degrees?

Why are some ends of the ranges (bottom) showing a hard/flat stop ... but the higher end showing arrows that suggests the range goes up to any reasonably anticipated temp? Even then, the arrows don't line up together. Was that on purpose? Am I to divine by this chart that on a 100+F or 40+C day, that 20W-50 is best, 10W-40 should be your 2nd choice and 10W-30 and straight 30 are tied for 3rd? That last one in particular is tough to swallow.

Don't 15W-40, straight 30 and 20W-50 flow similarly (poorly) in temps below freezing? According to this chart there is a 10C difference ... which I doubt. For sustained operation at or just above freezing temps, I don't even like 15W-40.

Anyone here like 10W-40 conventional oil for subfreezing conditions? Not me.

I assume the different colors mean nothing ... but I would have made the chart black and white. Red and yellow usually means "caution" in OPE manuals ... while green means "OK." This is nitpicking, but I figured I would mention it while I was posting. If I was publishing something, I would give it a thorough review from many points of view and this should have been considered.

Sorry Kawasaki, please try again.

 

[TiredTrucker]

Many of the same perceptions I have had for a while regarding OEM oil charts.

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
I haven't hit mine with an infrared yet, but I'm curious if the bigger engines run hotter than the small kawasakis on the 21" mowers. I put the the temp gun on my small Kawasaki and it was around 200 degrees or so on the oil filter, although it was only about 75 degrees the day I did that.


There is no way a air cooled Kawasaki is running under 200 degrees when fully warm. 230 to 260 degrees or hotter is the norm for air cooled engines.

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Wow. The Kaw in my John Deere zero turn only has 10w30 as the recommendation. Nothing else. Been using Amsoil 4 stroke 10w30/30 in it. Seems to do just fine.


John Deere doesn't follow Kawasaki recommendations. They do their own recommendation, probably because their own branded 10W30 is readily available at most places. When the equipment manufacturer and the engine manufacturer recommendations dont quite jive, I'm more likely to follow the engine manufacturers recommendation.

FYI, down here, I don't use ANY 30 weight in any Kawasaki engines down here in south Florida. Been around these engines too long to realize they LOVE a 40 weight. 5W40/15W40 is ideal for these engines.

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
I haven't hit mine with an infrared yet, but I'm curious if the bigger engines run hotter than the small kawasakis on the 21" mowers. I put the the temp gun on my small Kawasaki and it was around 200 degrees or so on the oil filter, although it was only about 75 degrees the day I did that.


There is no way a air cooled Kawasaki is running under 200 degrees when fully warm. 230 to 260 degrees or hotter is the norm for air cooled engines.
I would get closer to 300 or more depending on the temp outside. I put in an oil cooler. Stays around 210f now.

 

[bubbatime]

Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
The new chart is probably a bit of an improvement over the old one ... but not much.

The chart's recommendations are confusing. 10W-40 and 20W-50 are being slowly phased out by both the oil industry and engine manufacturers for most applications ... but they are on the chart. Go to a farm supply store and one of the most common weights is 15W-40 and it's not on the chart. Huh?

Synthetic 5W-40 is also fairly common and should be on the chart. What about 5W-30 ... which is one of the most common weights found anywhere in North America. and the 0W/20/30/40 weights? These are ideal for below freezing operation.

Speaking of which, the chart does not distinguish between conventional and synthetics (or blends). Given the quality of today's "conventional" oils, I don't think there's a world of difference ... but maybe 10 degrees?

Why are some ends of the ranges (bottom) showing a hard/flat stop ... but the higher end showing arrows that suggests the range goes up to any reasonably anticipated temp? Even then, the arrows don't line up together. Was that on purpose? Am I to divine by this chart that on a 100+F or 40+C day, that 20W-50 is best, 10W-40 should be your 2nd choice and 10W-30 and straight 30 are tied for 3rd? That last one in particular is tough to swallow.

Don't 15W-40, straight 30 and 20W-50 flow similarly (poorly) in temps below freezing? According to this chart there is a 10C difference ... which I doubt. For sustained operation at or just above freezing temps, I don't even like 15W-40.

Anyone here like 10W-40 conventional oil for subfreezing conditions? Not me.

I assume the different colors mean nothing ... but I would have made the chart black and white. Red and yellow usually means "caution" in OPE manuals ... while green means "OK." This is nitpicking, but I figured I would mention it while I was posting. If I was publishing something, I would give it a thorough review from many points of view and this should have been considered.

Sorry Kawasaki, please try again.


A lot of truth here. The chart IS confusing. There is no valid reason whatsoever why they dont recommend 15W40 or 5W40. 10W40 can go the way of the dodo bird. And what the heck with recommending 5W20 for winter conditions? I'd rather see a synthetic 5W30 on the chart for cold to moderate temperatures (-20F to 80F).

 

[NH73]

Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
The new chart is probably a bit of an improvement over the old one ... but not much.

The chart's recommendations are confusing. 10W-40 and 20W-50 are being slowly phased out by both the oil industry and engine manufacturers for most applications ... but they are on the chart. Go to a farm supply store and one of the most common weights is 15W-40 and it's not on the chart. Huh?

Synthetic 5W-40 is also fairly common and should be on the chart. What about 5W-30 ... which is one of the most common weights found anywhere in North America. and the 0W/20/30/40 weights? These are ideal for below freezing operation.

Speaking of which, the chart does not distinguish between conventional and synthetics (or blends). Given the quality of today's "conventional" oils, I don't think there's a world of difference ... but maybe 10 degrees?

Why are some ends of the ranges (bottom) showing a hard/flat stop ... but the higher end showing arrows that suggests the range goes up to any reasonably anticipated temp? Even then, the arrows don't line up together. Was that on purpose? Am I to divine by this chart that on a 100+F or 40+C day, that 20W-50 is best, 10W-40 should be your 2nd choice and 10W-30 and straight 30 are tied for 3rd? That last one in particular is tough to swallow.

Don't 15W-40, straight 30 and 20W-50 flow similarly (poorly) in temps below freezing? According to this chart there is a 10C difference ... which I doubt. For sustained operation at or just above freezing temps, I don't even like 15W-40.

Anyone here like 10W-40 conventional oil for subfreezing conditions? Not me.

I assume the different colors mean nothing ... but I would have made the chart black and white. Red and yellow usually means "caution" in OPE manuals ... while green means "OK." This is nitpicking, but I figured I would mention it while I was posting. If I was publishing something, I would give it a thorough review from many points of view and this should have been considered.

Sorry Kawasaki, please try again.


I just figured out about the different colors mean. Take a look at there web page: http://www.kawasakienginesusa.com/engine/accessories/kawasaki-4-cycle-engine-oil
Its the color coding for there oil. 5w20 is white, because Kawasaki doest have 5w20. Otherwise, stick to what you done before otherwise. There oils are a synthetic blend except the SAE 30.

 

[Shrubitup]

Originally Posted By: Bror Jace


Anyone here like 10W-40 conventional oil for subfreezing conditions? Not me.



Per the chart it says works fine from 14-32F. Don't get that cold here but does go below 32 for maybe a week. So you're saying using 10W-40 at +31 degrees F is a bad idea in this OPE?

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: NH73
Originally Posted By: Buzzsaw
I was just looking on the Kawasaki webpage and saw that they have updated and changed their oil recommendation chart. It shows that 10w40 has the widest operating range now. Too bad they don't have a 15w40 listed but I'm going to keep on rocking some Rotella.

New chart:

Old chart:

[URL]http://www.kawasakienginesusa.com/engine/accessories/kawasaki-4-cycle-engine-oil[/url]

Anyone have a new Kawai engine with anything other than 30w or 10w30 recommended on the dipstick?


I believe the best thing they did was drop the straight 40 weight recommendation, and replaced it with the 20w50. I just don't know why don't recognize HDEO's and synthetic. I once said that according to there recommendation, you shouldn't have no problems using 15w40 down to 32 degrees. I based that on that according to the old recommendation, the straight 30 weight was recommended down to 32 degrees, but not with the new one. But the 20w50 is now recommended down 32 degrees, which is thicker than 15w40. I now run 5w30 in my Kawi, maybe I should consider going to a 0w40 or 5w40.
For freezing weather?

 

[TiredTrucker]

I decided to take a look at the Kaw webpage regarding the Kaw engine in my JD Zero turn. JD recommends 10w30, and the recommendation at the Kaw site for the same engine shows 10w40 or 10w30 like the old chart. Nothing changed for this motor. Will keep on using the Amsoil 10w30/30 in it with option to use the same Schaeffer 711 10w30 I use in my diesels.

 

[SHOZ]

In my JD manual for the F510/F525 they recommend 5w30 for ambient temps of -30C to 40C.

They say for colder temps and if you use a 0wx that the OCI should be cut in half.

Quote:
4-CYCLE GASOLINE ENGINE AND
HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSION OIL—NORTH
AMERICA
NOTE: The F510 and F525 Residential Front Mowers
are unique machines in that the engine and
hydrostatic transmission are a unitized concept
that share the same oil reservior.
Use appropriate oil viscosity based on the expected air
temperature range during the period between
recommended oil changes.
The following John Deere oil is PREFERRED:
• TORQ—GARD® SUPREME—SAE 5W-30.
Other oils may be used if above John Deere oil is not
available, provided they meet one of the following
specifications:
• SAE 5W-30—API Service Classifications SH and
SG.
IMPORTANT: Arctic oils (such as SAE 0W-30 or
Military Specification MIL-L-46167B)
may be used if temperatures fall below
-30°C (-22°), but reduce the service
interval by 50%. For prolonged
operation under heavy load in
temperatures above 40° (104°) reduce
service interval by 50%.
John Deere Dealers: You may want to cross-reference
the following publications to recommend the proper oil
for your customers:
• Module DX,ENOIL2 in JDS-G135;
• Section 530, Lubricants & Hydraulics, of the John
Deere Merchandise Sales Guide;
• Lubrication Sales Manual PI7032;
• Lawn & Grounds Care Tune-Up Guide PI672.
M83052 -19-18OCT95

 

[Bror Jace]

NH73: ”I just figured out about the different colors mean … it's the color coding for their oil. 5W-20 is white, because Kawasaki doesn't have 5W-20. Their oils are a synthetic blend except the SAE 30.”

OK, so they updated their chart for their own marketing purposes … not to reflect the reality of selecting currently available engine oils and making it easier for owners to properly maintain their equipment. Marvelous.

”[Regarding 10W-40] per the chart it, says it works fine from 14-32F. Doesn't get that cold here but does go below 32F for maybe a week. So, you're saying using 10W-40 at +31F degrees is a bad idea in this OPE?”

For occasional dips in the thermometer, I wouldn't drain the oil. However, for continual use towards the bottom of that range, I would never pick a 10W-40 … not even a synthetic blend.

So, if you are in the 1-2% of owners who are actually using Kawasaki brand oil you are using a synthetic blend? Well, that improves things a bit … but only for the rare few that use OEM oils. For the rest of us, the chart is kind of useless.

I was in a Walmart over the weekend. The most common weights they carried were 5W-30 and 10W-30. 5W-20 is coming on strong, however, and I assume 0W-20 will be more popular in the near future as it is being spec'd more and more (Honda and Mazda's current cars). After those weights, the most common (by far) are the 5W/15W-40 HDEOs. Any updated oil recommendation chart that excludes these excellent choices is a joke.

 

[2cool]

Originally Posted By: Buzzsaw
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
That's great! Makes a little more sense than the old chart. Surprised they recommend 20w50 now. I just bought a zero turn with an FX481V engine 15.5hp. Dealer didn't even have 10w40 even though that's what the old oil chart suggested. I'll stick with the 15w40 delo.


You can't go wrong with Delo in that engine.

+1

 

[Astro_Guy]

Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
So, if you are in the 1-2% of owners who are actually using Kawasaki brand oil you are using a synthetic blend? Well, that improves things a bit … but only for the rare few that use OEM oils. For the rest of us, the chart is kind of useless.


I wouldn't characterize it that way. It's pretty obvious where a 15w40 oil would be considered acceptable based on this chart. If you want to fault them for only recommending the oils that they sell, then you may as well fault GM for requiring a Dexos approval. Personally I don't see the difference.

 

[LX289]

Why don't they recommend a 0w-xx oil like Mobil 1 0w-40?
It would cover the whole chart.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

The wider the viscosity-spread... the quicker it breaks down (the viscosity that its). Starts 0W-40 and quickly becomes 0W-20.

 

[LX289]

Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
The wider the viscosity-spread... the quicker it breaks down (the viscosity that its). Starts 0W-40 and quickly becomes 0W-20.


Ohhh didn't know that ok thanks just learned something new.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
The wider the viscosity-spread... the quicker it breaks down (the viscosity that its). Starts 0W-40 and quickly becomes 0W-20.


Gee, really? It doesn't do that in my BMW.

How quickly does it do that? I've only gone around 8,000 miles or so, maybe it will take longer or only happens in generators and stuff like that?