is there any benefit of going 'thicker' if uoa already checks out?
- Thread starter apollo18
- Start date
But it takes three thousand miles for this effect to occur? That doesn't make sense.
No it does not. Why would it?
Why do you think the various analysis labs want to know how and when the sample was taken? If it took “three thousand miles” for the fuel to distill from the oil then it wouldn’t matter on a daily basis.
Why do you think the various analysis labs want to know how and when the sample was taken? If it took “three thousand miles” for the fuel to distill from the oil then it wouldn’t matter on a daily basis.
It does sort of stabilize after initially creeping up. Not unusual. Yes, shorter OCI of 3-4k and higher viscosity is appropriate for my usage and engine.
Not necessarily, I would have to test oil sooner like after 1k miles to know how quickly it gets to 4-5%. But I dont want to do that, I have no plans to change oil sooner than 3-4k miles.
Last edited:
Just google HTHS wear graph.
Fuel dilution can vary substantially from one engine to another depending on its use. If the engine is short tripped, it'll accrue much faster, not only due to increased fuel dilution during repeated warmup cycles but also due to insufficient heat to evaporate the light ends of the fuel. The boiling points of gasoline's components range from 100°F to 380°F. The hotter you run the oil, the more fuel will evaporate out. There's too many variables to make any kind of blanket statement with fuel dilution.
Are most newer TGDI engines E85 compatible? If so, that's what I would be using. E85 is 85% evaporated at 175°F compared to E10 or ethanol free gasoline being 85% evaporated at closer to 325°F. If you drive mostly highway miles, with the oil temp sustained at 210-230°F, you'd actually see much less fuel dilution at a set mileage with E85 even though more fuel is being used and more is going into the oil.
Are most newer TGDI engines E85 compatible? If so, that's what I would be using. E85 is 85% evaporated at 175°F compared to E10 or ethanol free gasoline being 85% evaporated at closer to 325°F. If you drive mostly highway miles, with the oil temp sustained at 210-230°F, you'd actually see much less fuel dilution at a set mileage with E85 even though more fuel is being used and more is going into the oil.
Exactly. I made the permanent migration from 5W-20 to 5W-30 for the higher HTHS and MOFT protection. I saw no change whatsoever in fuel economy. Also 30 weight oil is more resistant to forming sludge/varnish in extreme heat applications.
One interesting fact to note is that Ford went back to recommending 5W-30 after they found that 5W-20 wasn't protecting their timing chains well enough. Googling HTHS wear graph was the final piece of evidence for me to make the transition to only use 5W-30 oils in all my vehicles.
It's been a while since thinking about that car. Mine was a 325. A rare two door automatic.
I was probably wrong about the 5w-40. I think it was 15w-40. But, I don't recall the ambient temp/oil chart in my manual nor do I recall any API approvals. They recommended their preferred grade and one for cold temps. I, also, researched the engine (don't remember which one it had) and that is where I found out about the low tension piston rings.
They probably started using them in the later years but I figured you were referring to the 528e. It was the fuel economy 2.7l I6 which only made 130HP vs it's non economy minded brothers. I funny thing with those oil charts is they are as precise as they are obtuse in nature. I only posted it as a reference not to infer anything.
Based on what? Mobil 1 5w20 vs. 5w30 is the same oil at it's core.
For my Honda J35A7 engines, which get extreme heat on front cylinder heads due to VCM + poorly designed overly small PCV value, the mechanics I've spoken to say that the 5W-20 oil the engine was speced for was part of the reason for the heavy varnish. It got overwhelmed by the extreme high temps. These mechanics recommended 5W-30 and even 5W-40 for this application.
Also Ford returned to 5W-30 as they felt the 5W-20 wasn't protecting their timing chains well enough.
After doing my own research, I've made the permanent move to 5W-30. It's higher HTHS and MOFT is something I consider important.
You may wish to google: HTHS wear graph.
You should add to the grid: "Extended oil change intervals".
I think it has taken 1st place (even over thick versus thin) for debates here on BITOG. LOL
Each BITOG Bingo card is custom made to order for the given post.
Ya but that is not what I quoted. M1 5w30 is no more resistant to heat and sludge formation than it's 5w20 brother. At its core they are the same oil.
The mechanics know as much about oil formulation as my irish setter. Going up in grade is not a solution for high oil temps unless you are at risk to lose MOFT, using a better oil with better base stocks is the solution.
What they should have said was don't use a cheap oil or change it more frequently if that is the case.
Last edited:
True. I actually don't think of 5W-30 as a thick oil. I just see it as the optimal oil viscosity all cars would be using if CAFE didn't exist.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Seems midway of the three most common seen here …
Be weary of listening to technicians....they often have v. limited info on oils (or the history/use of the vehicle and what oils were used etc.) and make inferences (i.e. "they use a 5W20 and I see some varnish so that's the cause").
"Not open for further replies."
