Is the recommended 0-20 bad for engine life?

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My the fuel dilution in my Acura RDX reduces viscosity by 2 or more cSt in 0w-20. The Xw-30 is needed just to keep oil in grade of 0w-20.
That doesn’t seem uncommon, but does it actually matter? Judging by the higher mileage examples driving around out there that were not maintained nearly as well as the average BITOGer would have, the answer seems to be no. In all likelihood, these engines can probably get a great service life on even thinner oils, and I’m sure the manufacturers spec what they do knowing it will thin out and is still plenty sufficient. I’m 99% sure that 4 cylinder turbo engine from Toyota which replaced the v6 in the Tacoma/4runner also calls for 0w-20 (or maybe 16, I haven’t looked)

Yes you can go thicker if you wish with no harm, but it really doesn’t seem necessary for anything besides our own feeling of comfort
 
But you use a thick oil every day.... the bearings don't care it's only 40F in the morning. And you can't stuff the oil in the bearing with the little pressure the il pump provides, you just present the oil to the bearing.

Besides, look up bearing clearances in workshop manuals, for an older engine speccing a 30 or 40, and for a recent engine speccing a 20 or below. Prepare to be amazed....

Do tell… bearings now fail from being prevented from achieving contact with rod and/or main journals during operation?

bearing clearance.jpg
 
So if the radio quits working you won't get it fixed on warranty if the engine has 10w50 oil instead of the grade written on the cap?
I'd just change the cap to match the engine oil.
Besides, there was a topic thread that asked the question if anyone had an engine replaced or repaired on warranty, or if they, or anybody they knew had warranty denied?
If I remember correctly, the topic ran for pages with no examples, just rabbit holes and was eventually locked.
It appears to me that people who post about how thin an oil they run are virtue signaling.
That’s a lot of suppositions, an nobody said you can’t get your head unit fixed under warranty because you used a heavier weight oil in the engine.

If your head unit takes oil, well then, I think warranty is not the biggest problem ;)

I know two folks who were denied warranty work for premature engine failure - one with a Kia and one with a Nissan. Both are using “incorrect” oil weights and specs. Not only were they using heavier weights not specified in any manufacturer paperwork for the model world wide, but they were not using the proper spec oil either, such as with an API SN rating.

I don’t believe either engine failed solely because of the oil, but these folks could not prove the oil was NOT the culprit and did not have the financial means to drag the manufacturers through court over it.

I won’t mention brand names, but when the fluid they pull from your engine has distinct smells or colors that aren’t considered “normal” for an engine oil, it’s pretty easy for them to tell you’ve used the incorrect lubricant for your engine.

Nissan seized up (commented remember exactly why) before it hit 20k miles. It was like 17k or so. Being a truck the owner thought they knew best that it needed heavier oil than anything used worldwide in the manual…

Kia owner I was closer to - his Optima had several issues internally, spun rod bearings, warped piston rings, bent valves from misfires, and so on. Total engine replacement needed. He made it more than six months through the painful warranty replacement process, before he was asked by corporate to produce receipts showing that since the dealer did not service the vehicle, he or some shop did oil changes with the specified oil. All he had were handwritten receipts from having a local friend with a garage full with once again, a oil weight not used or recommended in any part of the world by Kia, because the “mechanic” claimed these Kia engines are sloppy like an AK47 and they need real heavy oil in order to last a long time. I believe Kia claimed they drained something like 20w50 equivalent out of the engine upon inspection (no core how they determined this, but owner admitted he used 15w40 with Lucas upper cylinder additive per his “mechanic’s” recommendation... Warranty denied.
 
Yes you can go thicker if you wish with no harm, but it really doesn’t seem necessary for anything besides our own feeling of comfort

Yes, even if I am worried over nothing, I would still prefer to go with thicker oil to mitigate the effects of fuel dilution that drops viscosity by 2+ cSt. Besides, I dug up the owner manual for the same 2020 Acura RDX in Mexico, and see 5w-30 listed there as one of the acceptable choices.
 
Yes, even if I am worried over nothing, I would still prefer to go with thicker oil to mitigate the effects of fuel dilution that drops viscosity by 2+ cSt. Besides, I dug up the owner manual for the same 2020 Acura RDX in Mexico, and see 5w-30 listed there as one of the acceptable choices.
That’s fine, but doesn’t mean that someone using 0w-20 is going to encounter any issues due to “thin/thinning oil”. If anyone wants to argue otherwise please provide proof of just one engine specced for 0w-20, which failed or malfunctioned due to using 0w-20.
 
Everyone swears the lochness monster is real even though nobody has ever seen it. There’s def reasons to go thicker (I did) but I hate when people turn that into outright lies about thin oils being inadequate
Can you list a few of those outright lies? Technical ones please, not some ranting that’s obvious that the person has an agenda.
 
That’s fine, but doesn’t mean that someone using 0w-20 is going to encounter any issues due to “thin/thinning oil”. If anyone wants to argue otherwise please provide proof of just one engine specced for 0w-20, which failed or malfunctioned due to using 0w-20.
You right, it does not mean that 0w-20 will cause harm. I am just operating on the side of caution
 
You right, it does not mean that 0w-20 will cause harm. I am just operating on the side of caution

-will not cause harm
And
-will protect better

Are very different. I choose, “will protect better” over “meh it’s good enough it’s not like pouring liquid nail into your engine!” Any day.
 
So, you shared a chart of preferences of one company. Every single engine builder has a slightly different mindset on bearing clearances (and their tolerances). There’s nothing in that chart that says bearings will fail from too thick of a lubricant, because that’s not a thing.
Exactly - a molecule is a molecule. From what I understand, a myth buster fellow on YouTube showed how a 350 from decades ago has the same tolerances and clearances as a brand new engine like the Camry runs that now specs 0W8 oil. The tighter tolerances thing is a bit of a myth - there’s only so tight a tolerance before no oil molecule can pass through. We are talking just a few thousandths of an inch….
 
That’s fine, but doesn’t mean that someone using 0w-20 is going to encounter any issues due to “thin/thinning oil”. If anyone wants to argue otherwise please provide proof of just one engine specced for 0w-20, which failed or malfunctioned due to using 0w-20.
Jumping in here. Likelyhood of damage is greater with the added dimension of early implementation of Direct Injection.

My Ford/Mazda 2.0 D.I is rod knocking likely due to Fuel dilution running spec Castrol 5W20. I had a UOA performed.

VW 1.4T lease rod knocked with spec VAG 508 00 (0W20) Added 1 qt of 0W40 and the loud rapping subsided.

Wifes New Subaru Crosstrek 2L D.I. raps** but it seems most all do after wear-in. Was sooth and quiet for up to about a month after purchase.

Ford UOA snippet (2090 mile interval)
eco UOA.jpg


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** when engine "unloaded" at the shift point RPM transition - applies to all above examples
 
“Likely” due to oil, but you’re just guessing there. I say that because it also sounds like you don’t actually know what rod knock is, since that indicates damage already done and doesn’t just go away with thicker oil. And I have no idea what a rapping engine is

Do you know that a lot of these newer engines use forged pistons which inherently tap while cold because they haven’t expanded yet? Early Mazda Skyactiv engines are known for this and was a big topic of debate on forums. Hell I run forged Wiseco pistons in my fun car and they tap when cold using 5w-40, Supertech pistons tap less due to different silicon content and expansion properties allowing a tighter piston to wall clearance
 
Jumping in here. Likelyhood of damage is greater with the added dimension of early implementation of Direct Injection.

My Ford/Mazda 2.0 D.I is rod knocking likely due to Fuel dilution running spec Castrol 5W20. I had a UOA performed.

VW 1.4T lease rod knocked with spec VAG 508 00 (0W20) Added 1 qt of 0W40 and the loud rapping subsided.

Wifes New Subaru Crosstrek 2L D.I. raps** but it seems most all do after wear-in. Was sooth and quiet for up to about a month after purchase.

There’s something wrong with the way you take care of your vehicles. I’ve never heard of anyone else who has destroyed so many engines 🤦‍♂️
 
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