Interval for Rear Drum Brake Clean/Adjust

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How often should one perform a clean, lube and adjustment of their rear drum brakes?

I had my neighbor’s 4Runner over this morning to perform this service – he wasn’t aware that this was a maintenance item?! I had recommended the service to him since I noticed the pedal engagement was low and the parking brake was not as effective as it should be....even after performing his requested brake fluid exchange. ;)

My own practice has been to remove the drums at each 5K LOF/Rotate and empty the dust. Then, every year or 10K (whichever comes first), I will hose down the assembly with brake cleaner, lightly lube the accessible contact points and adjust the shoe-to-drum clearance.

You?
 
If the self adjusters are working correctly you shouldn't need to mess with the adjustment. Make sure they move ok and that any springs or cables in there are not stretched or lost tension.

Very few cleaned drum brakes out even when they were more common. The only time I clean mine is if I had it apart for some reason. I don't believe cleaning them makes them work any better. Just more pleasant to work on.

Since it's not a sealed system much of the brake dust can get out.
 
Am curious, as I’m in the never camp, last couple decades most of mine were 4 wheel disc, maybe with a parking brake drum (that didn’t work regardless). Wouldn’t mind never having another drum again.
 
Have had many vehicles with drum brakes, some with 4 wheel drum brakes. The only time they ever got serviced was when needed or during a brake job. A tip I have learned for the self-adjuster mechanism. CRC silicone spray or any kind of silicone spray that does not contain teflon or dries greasy works great for the threads on the adjuster. The adjusters stay freed up much longer than using nothing or something greasy that attracts dust to the threads. I've taken a lot of adjusters apart that were frozen up because someone used anti seize or grease on the threads and they got packed full of brake dust.

Stepping on the brake hard when backing out of the driveway then again going forward helps a lot for keeping them adjusted. Another trick, depending on which style of auto adjuster the brakes have, put the E brake on a click or two, not enough to stop the vehicle but enough for them to drag slightly, then stomp on the brakes in reverse and drive a few times going backward and forward. This will raise the pedal up a lot if you have a low pedal.
 
How often should one perform a clean, lube and adjustment of their rear drum brakes?

I had my neighbor’s 4Runner over this morning to perform this service – he wasn’t aware that this was a maintenance item?! I had recommended the service to him since I noticed the pedal engagement was low and the parking brake was not as effective as it should be....even after performing his requested brake fluid exchange. ;)

My own practice has been to remove the drums at each 5K LOF/Rotate and empty the dust. Then, every year or 10K (whichever comes first), I will hose down the assembly with brake cleaner, lightly lube the accessible contact points and adjust the shoe-to-drum clearance.

You?
Just my opinion, but the auto adjusters on Toyota trucks don’t work well. I had to tighten the drum brakes on my old Tundra about once a year, and I used the parking brake and reverse every day. The parking brake cable was properly adjusted as well.

At least they are easy to tighten by operating the cable, instead of a screwdriver on the adjuster.
 
If the self adjusters are working correctly you shouldn't need to mess with the adjustment.
IME, functional self-adjusters are rare. Once the assembly becomes somewhat dirty/grimey, those things do not work very well.

The one I worked on this morning required 10-15 clicks before the shoes-to-drum clearance was remotely acceptable.
 
I pull my Patriot drums off at every tire rotation (6K), get the dust out, and give it a quick look over. My self-adjusters seem to work fine. I find it next to impossible to get any high solids moly lube on the backing plate contact points without disassembly, which I do not do. A paper thin massaging of moly lube onto the hub keeps it pristine in our salty enviro. I would rather do regular checks/cleanup vs. tackling a neglected/corroded mess (school of hard knocks). I have that circumstance where my back shoes need to be replaced 2 times for every front disk pad replacement.
1703966456310.jpeg

Off Topic - I am so pleased with my front EBC Ultimax2 pads and coated rotors that I will replace with same when the time comes.
 
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I find it next to impossible to get any high solids moly lube on the backing plate contact points without disassembly, which I do not do.
Use a large flathead screwdriver to pry the shoes outward (a little). Then use a disposable acid brush or seal pick to sneak some lube back there.
 
Have had many vehicles with drum brakes, some with 4 wheel drum brakes. The only time they ever got serviced was when needed or during a brake job. A tip I have learned for the self-adjuster mechanism. CRC silicone spray or any kind of silicone spray that does not contain teflon or dries greasy works great for the threads on the adjuster. The adjusters stay freed up much longer than using nothing or something greasy that attracts dust to the threads. I've taken a lot of adjusters apart that were frozen up because someone used anti seize or grease on the threads and they got packed full of brake dust.

Stepping on the brake hard when backing out of the driveway then again going forward helps a lot for keeping them adjusted. Another trick, depending on which style of auto adjuster the brakes have, put the E brake on a click or two, not enough to stop the vehicle but enough for them to drag slightly, then stomp on the brakes in reverse and drive a few times going backward and forward. This will raise the pedal up a lot if you have a low pedal.
This is very wise advice. I learned this 50 years ago, when first learning to drive. It doesn't take much. Just an occasional hard brake while backing. A hard brake is probably a little out of the norm for most of us, but nothing will keep a drum brake adjusted as well.
 
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Use a large flathead screwdriver to pry the shoes outward (a little). Then use a disposable acid brush or seal pick to sneak some lube back there.
Seems that I tried that with no success. But, I will try again, maybe using a bent pipe cleaner to wiggle the lube in.

Thanks.
 
This is a good article on how the drum brake self adjuster mechanisms work...
 
I'm with @Chris142 -- if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I use Mission silicone grease on adjusters. Not sure if that's good, but I haven't had any problems
 
IME, functional self-adjusters are rare. Once the assembly becomes somewhat dirty/grimey, those things do not work very well.

The one I worked on this morning required 10-15 clicks before the shoes-to-drum clearance was remotely acceptable.
This.
In the rust belt, don't expect them to be working after ~3 years
Even worse is rear drums where the person never uses the parking brake 🙄

I had an Escort years ago (1994 👀) that for the life of me I couldn't get a good brake pedal, no matter what I did
Don't laugh, this is literally how I fixed it


Find an empty parking lot, repeatedly slam the brakes while reversing, add in the handbrake a few times
I had a good pedal after that 👌
 
I’ve only worked on rear drums as needed. I do give’em a look now and again for example during a tire rotation, just to see how they’re doing. I’ll give them a brake cleaner spray down but they don’t seem to need much or very often.
 
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I think 5k miles is a bit excessive for drum brake maintenance but then this is BITOG! I don't look at them until the 50-60k mile mark to see if the brake shoes need replacing - at that point I will replace the shoes if needed and clean everything with brake cleaner, lube it and move on.
 
I think 5k miles is a bit excessive for drum brake maintenance but then this is BITOG!
Last that I checked, every OEM specifies a visual brake inspection of friction linings at every minor service. If you are not selling this to your customers, that is a missed opportunity for labor revenue!
 
I think 5k miles is a bit excessive for drum brake maintenance but then this is BITOG! I don't look at them until the 50-60k mile mark to see if the brake shoes need replacing - at that point I will replace the shoes if needed and clean everything with brake cleaner, lube it and move on.
In the salt belt our frequent service is to avoid this:
1703976312448.jpeg
 
It was included in 15k services on vehicles that had them when I worked on Chrysler / Jeeps.

I pulled drums and dumped the dust every tire rotation on my Jeep. Did a full clean and adjust periodically whenever I felt like it, but dumping the dust so often made a full service in-necessary very often. Jeep shoes were typically good for 100k, but keeping them adjusted tight and lifted jeeps with larger heavier wheels and tires wore the shoes quicker.

They sell (or used to) a brake lube called “brake life” I believe that was in a cheese wiz type can with a nozzle. It worked just like cheese wiz and was perfect for getting grease between shoes and backing plates.

IMG_7272.png
 
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