I've owned 5 Hyundais since 1995. I've mostly done my own oil changes, but have gone to the dealer as well. I've personally never heard any knock when I've used an a/m filter. I believe that the TSB had something to do with some a/m companies spec'ing under-sized filters for their vehicles. For example, the Fram PH6607 (which is much, much smaller than oem) was spec'd for Hyundai for years. Now, that filter has been replaced with the PH9688.
Hyundai sez no aftermarket filters
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i think you are right.i just had my oil changed at monro muffler and had 5/20 durablend put in and a vavoline filter.the filter was much smaller then the orginal.so i checked it against the purolater and super tec and it was alot smaller.even the mobil 1 filter was smaller.i htink i will use purolater untill i get some orginals filters from ebay.you even have to watch the filters for the 3.3 v6 as some are taller than others.mine takes the taller one cartidge that is.
Originally Posted By: andrei3333
Originally Posted By: Ursae_Majoris
I do not know about the Nissan filter, never had to use one.
What color is the Anti-Drain Back Valve? If it black, it is nitrile rubber, it does not last as long as silicone and does not stay flexible in the cold.
Hyundai/Kia filter has a nice thick can, synthetic media, silicon ADBV, coil spring retainer, silicon gasket.
BTW look thru the oil filter section here. A lot of good info.
nuff said
Since my answer to another question in the another tread was quoted in this thread, I need to expand on it. I've used and cut open OEM Hyundai/Kia filters (two were cut). They were fine. I have since switched to PureOne, since I can get them for $5 a pop, instead of $9-ish that Kia dealer was charging. Still no engine knock, and oil pressure is still fine.
I currently have a mix of PP 5-20 and VWB 5-30 in Kia, and it survived the Alaska winter just fine, without an engine block heater.
This weekend I will change oil (mix of MaxLife 5-30 and VWB5-30), if weather is above 45F, and I will run P1 with a magnet. I am sure it will work just fine, again.
P1 filter is the same size as OEM. I use it on my Axi and Spectra both, without any problems whatsoever!
Originally Posted By: Ursae_Majoris
I do not know about the Nissan filter, never had to use one.
What color is the Anti-Drain Back Valve? If it black, it is nitrile rubber, it does not last as long as silicone and does not stay flexible in the cold.
Hyundai/Kia filter has a nice thick can, synthetic media, silicon ADBV, coil spring retainer, silicon gasket.
BTW look thru the oil filter section here. A lot of good info.
nuff said
Since my answer to another question in the another tread was quoted in this thread, I need to expand on it. I've used and cut open OEM Hyundai/Kia filters (two were cut). They were fine. I have since switched to PureOne, since I can get them for $5 a pop, instead of $9-ish that Kia dealer was charging. Still no engine knock, and oil pressure is still fine.
I currently have a mix of PP 5-20 and VWB 5-30 in Kia, and it survived the Alaska winter just fine, without an engine block heater.
This weekend I will change oil (mix of MaxLife 5-30 and VWB5-30), if weather is above 45F, and I will run P1 with a magnet. I am sure it will work just fine, again.
P1 filter is the same size as OEM. I use it on my Axi and Spectra both, without any problems whatsoever!
Originally Posted By: andrei3333
Yes, nuff said that this filter should be used instead of after market. Thats the question by the OP and thats the final answer, use this filter and dont have problems, doesnt matter how it filters, what do you want me to do put a camera inside and show you ?
Nuff SAID if you dont want your engine knocking. have you ever seen this filter ?
bet you dont even drive a hyundai, so have you ever heard this knocking ?
I do think it matters how efficient the OEM filter is, and I don't understand how it's possible not to care about it. If it's catching, say, only 80% of particles >= 25 microns, that would really suck.
BTW I have a 2008 Sonata. I have used an OEM oil filter previously, and I have two new ones in my garage as you read this. I was looking at one of them earlier today. They seem like very high-quality filters (exemplary, in fact), but then again I cannot tell by looking at the outside how well the media works.
I've been using M1 filters and never heard any sort of knocking sound.
Here's the deal though: For my next oil change, I will install an OEM filter, and I will have Blackstone do a particle count test as part of a UOA. Then I will switch back to an M1 and do the same again. (I currently have an M1 installed, but I don't think it would be valid to do a UOA on it when the time comes, because I recently had a ~1,400-mile road trip, which I'm assuming may change the particle count as compared to my usual short tripping.)
Yes, nuff said that this filter should be used instead of after market. Thats the question by the OP and thats the final answer, use this filter and dont have problems, doesnt matter how it filters, what do you want me to do put a camera inside and show you ?
Nuff SAID if you dont want your engine knocking. have you ever seen this filter ?
bet you dont even drive a hyundai, so have you ever heard this knocking ?
I do think it matters how efficient the OEM filter is, and I don't understand how it's possible not to care about it. If it's catching, say, only 80% of particles >= 25 microns, that would really suck.
BTW I have a 2008 Sonata. I have used an OEM oil filter previously, and I have two new ones in my garage as you read this. I was looking at one of them earlier today. They seem like very high-quality filters (exemplary, in fact), but then again I cannot tell by looking at the outside how well the media works.
I've been using M1 filters and never heard any sort of knocking sound.
Here's the deal though: For my next oil change, I will install an OEM filter, and I will have Blackstone do a particle count test as part of a UOA. Then I will switch back to an M1 and do the same again. (I currently have an M1 installed, but I don't think it would be valid to do a UOA on it when the time comes, because I recently had a ~1,400-mile road trip, which I'm assuming may change the particle count as compared to my usual short tripping.)
HYUNDAI ENGINE KNOCK.....................LEMON LAW!
Start up knock has been an issues with many diffferent engine & aftermarket filter combinations on this site. If you have it, just try an OEM filter. What is all the [censored] talk about lemon laws, engine design flaws etc. Hyundai identified an after market filter problem and without them needing to check all filters they recomended the OE which does not have a problem-no biggy in my book. GOD help the little thinking people.
I have an 08 Sonata with 63k and I can't tell the engine is on when it's idling. No piston slap, no knocking, quiet valve train. At red-line there's no weird engine noises. I've used only PureOne filters because of rebates and them being on sale at AAP + coupon codes. The most I've paid for a PureOne is $3.
I'm not really sure what filters exactly caused this issue, I've heard everything from Fram (people like blaming Fram for everything) to some Pennzoil filter. I've also heard that PureOne's would be awful for the engine because they're "too restrictive". My guess as to what caused the issue is filters being ran for longer than they should have been, clogging up, and starving the engine of oil. That's just a guess though. My other hypothesis is there's oil filters with different PSI's for their bypass valves that are set too high for cold startups with thick oil.
I use whatever synthetic I have in the garage (I generally take advantage of every rebate offered). I even used 10w30 Mobil 1 that I had lying around and everything was still kosher (earlier post stated Mobil 1 caused valve train noise). I also test drove 3 other Sonata's before buying this one, none of them had any engine noise. One had pretty disgusting looking oil combined with the worst wheel alignment I've seen in a car so I can assume it wasn't taken good care of. But hey it had to happen to some people for Hyundai to post a TSB about it.
The only weird noise this car has had is the dang passenger side window regulator squeaking. I tried every lubricant in my garage before giving up the $40 to buy a new one.
I'm not really sure what filters exactly caused this issue, I've heard everything from Fram (people like blaming Fram for everything) to some Pennzoil filter. I've also heard that PureOne's would be awful for the engine because they're "too restrictive". My guess as to what caused the issue is filters being ran for longer than they should have been, clogging up, and starving the engine of oil. That's just a guess though. My other hypothesis is there's oil filters with different PSI's for their bypass valves that are set too high for cold startups with thick oil.
I use whatever synthetic I have in the garage (I generally take advantage of every rebate offered). I even used 10w30 Mobil 1 that I had lying around and everything was still kosher (earlier post stated Mobil 1 caused valve train noise). I also test drove 3 other Sonata's before buying this one, none of them had any engine noise. One had pretty disgusting looking oil combined with the worst wheel alignment I've seen in a car so I can assume it wasn't taken good care of. But hey it had to happen to some people for Hyundai to post a TSB about it.
The only weird noise this car has had is the dang passenger side window regulator squeaking. I tried every lubricant in my garage before giving up the $40 to buy a new one.
Originally Posted By: cmf
I've also heard that PureOne's would be awful for the engine because they're "too restrictive".
An old internet tale probably based on someone's Micky Mouse garage "testing". Test data from Purolator shows the PureOne flows very well ... probably better than most due to the use of a lot of media area.
Originally Posted By: cmf
My guess as to what caused the issue is filters being ran for longer than they should have been, clogging up, and starving the engine of oil. That's just a guess though. My other hypothesis is there's oil filters with different PSI's for their bypass valves that are set too high for cold startups with thick oil.
Both are possible.
I've also heard that PureOne's would be awful for the engine because they're "too restrictive".
An old internet tale probably based on someone's Micky Mouse garage "testing". Test data from Purolator shows the PureOne flows very well ... probably better than most due to the use of a lot of media area.
Originally Posted By: cmf
My guess as to what caused the issue is filters being ran for longer than they should have been, clogging up, and starving the engine of oil. That's just a guess though. My other hypothesis is there's oil filters with different PSI's for their bypass valves that are set too high for cold startups with thick oil.
Both are possible.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Test data from Purolator shows the PureOne flows very well
Key words highlighted.
Test data from Purolator shows the PureOne flows very well
Key words highlighted.
Originally Posted By: glum
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Test data from Purolator shows the PureOne flows very well
Key words highlighted.
It's legitimate data from a calibrated ISO complaint test bench ... not a conspiracy.
You got a better source of data?
Reminds me when there was internet "garage test data" that rumored that the ACDelco UPF44 Ultragaud was "restrictive". ACDelco Tech Dept said the garage testers didn't know how to really test for flow restriction, and their calibrated test equipment showed the real flow characteristics.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Test data from Purolator shows the PureOne flows very well
Key words highlighted.
It's legitimate data from a calibrated ISO complaint test bench ... not a conspiracy.
Reminds me when there was internet "garage test data" that rumored that the ACDelco UPF44 Ultragaud was "restrictive". ACDelco Tech Dept said the garage testers didn't know how to really test for flow restriction, and their calibrated test equipment showed the real flow characteristics.
LOL. I knew "You got better data?" would be the response. No, I don't, but I also don't have better data on a lot of things (e.g. military budget, unemployment rate, etc.), doesn't mean I believe all of it.
Anyway, as I mentioned above, I really am going to have particle count tests run for RP, M1, and Hyundai OEM filters, but it's going to take a long time for me to get them all done. I suppose I'll start a new thread in this sub-forum and post them as I get the info back.
Anyway, as I mentioned above, I really am going to have particle count tests run for RP, M1, and Hyundai OEM filters, but it's going to take a long time for me to get them all done. I suppose I'll start a new thread in this sub-forum and post them as I get the info back.
Nah, it would have to involve multiple parties to be a conspiracy. Cynical of me yes, conspiracy theorist, no.
I am not interested in testing P1 filters. Above, we were having a nice back-and-forth about the efficiency of Hyundai OEM filters, and I mentioned that I'd have a PC test done on one.
I read the post you link to below long ago. This isn't worth arguing about. You like P1 filters, I don't. I'm OK with that, so should you be.
I am not interested in testing P1 filters. Above, we were having a nice back-and-forth about the efficiency of Hyundai OEM filters, and I mentioned that I'd have a PC test done on one.
I read the post you link to below long ago. This isn't worth arguing about. You like P1 filters, I don't. I'm OK with that, so should you be.
I have had Hyundais knock with aftermarket filters. Mostly older Santa Fe's with the 2.7 or 3.5. Not every Hyundai does it. The screw on Hyundai filter in my area goes for a whopping $6 at the dealership. Pure Ones sell for $7 at Advance Auto.
Originally Posted By: salv
I have had Hyundais knock with aftermarket filters. Mostly older Santa Fe's with the 2.7 or 3.5. Not every Hyundai does it. The screw on Hyundai filter in my area goes for a whopping $6 at the dealership. Pure Ones sell for $7 at Advance Auto.
Unless you're on good terms with the Hyundai parts guy... Then you get them for even less.
I have had Hyundais knock with aftermarket filters. Mostly older Santa Fe's with the 2.7 or 3.5. Not every Hyundai does it. The screw on Hyundai filter in my area goes for a whopping $6 at the dealership. Pure Ones sell for $7 at Advance Auto.
Unless you're on good terms with the Hyundai parts guy... Then you get them for even less.
Quote:
Pure Ones sell for $7 at Advance Auto.
Just checked a couple apps (14610/14459), Advance online, $5 each. Add the current $3 and one can buy 4 P1's ~$8. And that doesn't include any AAP online code that might be working for the order.
Quote:
Read this:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...451#Post1619451
Yep, good information and thread regarding the excellent flow characteristics of the P1. Used many without issue, and will continue to do so.
As for the topic, since it's been up for awhile, it may have been mentioned but "if" Hyundai said this, they would have to provide the Hyundai oil filter for free. And according to this 12/10 FTC Alert regarding MMWA, " The FTC says the manufacturer or dealer must show that the aftermarket equipment caused the need for repairs before denying warranty coverage. "
Lastly, as has been said, I'd have no problem trying/using a quality aftermarket filter in a Hyundai. If one isn't satisfied for whatever reason(eg.,start-up rattle, noise, tick, knock, etc), they can always go back to Hyundai. But that's just me.
Pure Ones sell for $7 at Advance Auto.
Just checked a couple apps (14610/14459), Advance online, $5 each. Add the current $3 and one can buy 4 P1's ~$8. And that doesn't include any AAP online code that might be working for the order.
Quote:
Read this:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...451#Post1619451
Yep, good information and thread regarding the excellent flow characteristics of the P1. Used many without issue, and will continue to do so.
As for the topic, since it's been up for awhile, it may have been mentioned but "if" Hyundai said this, they would have to provide the Hyundai oil filter for free. And according to this 12/10 FTC Alert regarding MMWA, " The FTC says the manufacturer or dealer must show that the aftermarket equipment caused the need for repairs before denying warranty coverage. "
Lastly, as has been said, I'd have no problem trying/using a quality aftermarket filter in a Hyundai. If one isn't satisfied for whatever reason(eg.,start-up rattle, noise, tick, knock, etc), they can always go back to Hyundai. But that's just me.
Well maybe I'll have a PC test done on a P1 filter as well.
Hyundai really did issue this TSB (not sure why "if" was used). They never--as far as I know--said they would deny warranty claims based on aftermarket oil filter usage. It's certainly not in the TSB itself at any rate.
Hyundai really did issue this TSB (not sure why "if" was used). They never--as far as I know--said they would deny warranty claims based on aftermarket oil filter usage. It's certainly not in the TSB itself at any rate.
To further clarify, the "if" I used relates to title of the thread "Hyundai sez no aftermarket filters". That being the case, thus my response. The "if" is not the later posted tsb which is clear.
As for doing a singular UOA PC, as has been alluded to, the results wouldn't refute or confirm the P1 flow vs psid information posted in the link. Don't think there would be any correlation at all.
As I said previously, the Hyundia canister filters I've seen posted here do seem to be well made filters. However, if I could get just as well made a filter, like P1, for less money, I'd have to give it a shot and see how it worked.
As for doing a singular UOA PC, as has been alluded to, the results wouldn't refute or confirm the P1 flow vs psid information posted in the link. Don't think there would be any correlation at all.
As I said previously, the Hyundia canister filters I've seen posted here do seem to be well made filters. However, if I could get just as well made a filter, like P1, for less money, I'd have to give it a shot and see how it worked.
Originally Posted By: glum
LOL. I knew "You got better data?" would be the response. No, I don't, but I also don't have better data on a lot of things (e.g. military budget, unemployment rate, etc.), doesn't mean I believe all of it.
Anyway, as I mentioned above, I really am going to have particle count tests run for RP, M1, and Hyundai OEM filters, but it's going to take a long time for me to get them all done. I suppose I'll start a new thread in this sub-forum and post them as I get the info back.
Come on,man! Save your money,your time,your aggravation,your warranty,swim downstream,like everybody else,and just use the warranty prescribed filter thru the warranty period.
LOL. I knew "You got better data?" would be the response. No, I don't, but I also don't have better data on a lot of things (e.g. military budget, unemployment rate, etc.), doesn't mean I believe all of it.
Anyway, as I mentioned above, I really am going to have particle count tests run for RP, M1, and Hyundai OEM filters, but it's going to take a long time for me to get them all done. I suppose I'll start a new thread in this sub-forum and post them as I get the info back.
Come on,man! Save your money,your time,your aggravation,your warranty,swim downstream,like everybody else,and just use the warranty prescribed filter thru the warranty period.
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