Hypothetically, who makes a good 5w-20 for a modern, non-turbo engine?

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I know many on here think 0w-20s have better formulations than 5w-20s. But just out of curiosity, who is making the highest quality 5w-20 right now (excluding the "premium" brands that cost a fortune). Just curious.
 
I know many on here think 0w-20s have better formulations than 5w-20s. But just out of curiosity, who is making the highest quality 5w-20 right now (excluding the "premium" brands that cost a fortune). Just curious.
A helpful response requires more information on your behalf such as engine type, intended OCI, driving conditions, and so forth...
 
Any 5w20 is more than adequate for a non-turbo engine :)

Most of the problems are with TGDI. The deadly combination of turbo and DI.

Napa Synthetic is on sale for a few more days. It's Valvoline. Even Walmart brand Super Tech is good stuff and will be fine for a 5k OCI in a non-turbo. Any house brand 5w20 will be fine. Just get the cheapest 5w20 on sale.

Will you do one of those 1200 mile trips every OCI? :unsure:

Because for mostly short trips less than 5 miles, 0w20 will be better for those driving conditions.
 
Toyota 2.5L 4 cylinder, non turbo. OCI would never be more than 5,000. Trips would vary tremendously from city (5 miles or so) to 1200 miles on the highway continuously.
You can utilize 0W-20 with no issues where 5W-20 is called for.
But to answer your question and for your purpose I think any 5w-20 oils that are widely available at Walmart, will do the job. I personally would go with Mobil 1 EP 0W-20 or 5W-20 if you really want to stick with 5W-20
 
Thanks for the suggestions. The 1200 mile trip will be made about 4 times a year, so about once every 5K OCI. I was planning on using Castrol Edge or PP, but wanted to know if there was anything better.
 
We have a 2004 Taurus with a 3.0 Duratec that is sitting at roughly 410,000 miles and has lived it's life on Castrol GTX 5w20. Hard to argue with those results.
In your engine’s defense, it’s an engine family known to be almost hilariously easy on oil. Any oil that meets API’s middling standards will give a 3.0 a long happy life; Castrol or otherwise.

OP’s engine is in nearly the same category- an API oil kept clean with a good air and oil filter and changed at 5k means oil choice can pretty much take a back seat to choosing based on minimal cost.

I concur with Sandstorm; if one wants to feel like they’re “splurging” on their vehicle while still keeping WM availability, M1 EP is probably the current champ. If low cost is the primary goal, any current WM synthetic changed at 5k will most assuredly provide statistically similar results. 👍🏻
 
havoline pro-ds would be a good choice along a 5 k change out interval,if price is a consideration,or vavoline ep,,Amsoil if you want to extened the intervals longer,
 
Nothing to add but a good anecdote about that motor’s durability. Last week had an Uber ride in a Camry with the 2.5. I saw the car ran well but could glimpse enough at the odometer to see it had high mileage. I asked the driver and he told me it had 314k miles on it. A few months prior, a careless Jiffy Lube had under filled the motor significantly during a change, and he heard the motor “not sounding right.” He added almost three quarts, but the motor then seemed to be running fine, again. He uses 5w20, fwiw. This further reinforces my belief that when dealing with Toyota motors, unless you really try to kill them, just being diligent with maintenance and changing the oil and addressing the other service items regularly and my guess is the rest of the car will wear out a lot sooner than the engine.
 
ST 5W20 in my son's non-turbo GDI Focus. 11 years/130k (owned since new) going strong including autocross more recently. Most of that life was on dealer MC syn blend 5W20. Next change will be QS Ultimate 5W20. I don't know how anyone can objectively pick one Wallyworld syn 5W20 brand over another TBH so I go with price. If I did one of the high end oils like HPL I could probably go 3 years on a change with his year but for QS once a year is fine. I think about succumbing to using a 30 grade like is often recommended here but the 20 seems fine.
 
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