Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Oily_hair
I never knew that I was killing my vehicles and that the dealers, manufactures and engineers have formed a conspiracy to destroy our cars.
Wow, what a logical and rationally reasoned argument...congratulations.
Part of selling cars is marketting.
When my Brother's company were looking at vehicles, they looked at Toyotas and the like, but bought Mitsubishi diesels because:
a) they didn't have a 1,000km service;
b) didn't have a "severe service" 5,000km regime, but "regular" services at 15,000km;
c) that was with regular dino oils; and
d) had 100,000km powertrain warranties...
It was all about marketting and normal distribution of failures...and consumers wanting to feel that not doing things is better than doing them.
Nearly every piece of industrial equipment I'v ever installed has a short initial OCI/service, if it doesn't have a specific flushing regime that may take days or weeks before first turning the shaft.
There's nothing "optimum" (nor even magic) about a regular OCI for the very first interval on a new car...it's marketting.
And it obviously works, as you are creating conspiracy strawmen in your defence of it.
No kidding.
Let's address this leveraged wear metals at break in and their abrasive ness. Are we to believe those abrasive particulate isn't being filtered out and if it is then running a longer first interval is smarter because the filter loads fast and thereby filters better which keeps that particulate out of the engine itself,and when you drain the factory fill you also wash out all that extremely high moly assembly lube which I'd rather try to keep in as long as possible.
I've learned that Honda doesn't use a special break in oil,that high moly from the factory fill is from the assembly lubes used.
I've got friends in Allston that work for Honda and they made inquiries to power train.
Do no special break in oil,just special assembly lubes which are why the oil has such a high level of friction modifiers.
And let's address that post about pouring 1000 mile oil back into the dump. Sure it'll look ugly but that's the assembly lubes and greases making it look that way.
When I put the new cams and 106 kit on my harley I fell for the early change ideas but I kept the same filter and my oil looked great,no metallic flecks and pretty much clear,as 100 mile oil should look so after seeing with my own eyes I'm drifting over to the leave it alone camp now.
Sure an engine is shredding metal when new but I saw no evidence of that metal in the drained oil,the filter once cut open was sparkling though but the oil looked like oil to me.
Originally Posted By: Oily_hair
I never knew that I was killing my vehicles and that the dealers, manufactures and engineers have formed a conspiracy to destroy our cars.
Wow, what a logical and rationally reasoned argument...congratulations.
Part of selling cars is marketting.
When my Brother's company were looking at vehicles, they looked at Toyotas and the like, but bought Mitsubishi diesels because:
a) they didn't have a 1,000km service;
b) didn't have a "severe service" 5,000km regime, but "regular" services at 15,000km;
c) that was with regular dino oils; and
d) had 100,000km powertrain warranties...
It was all about marketting and normal distribution of failures...and consumers wanting to feel that not doing things is better than doing them.
Nearly every piece of industrial equipment I'v ever installed has a short initial OCI/service, if it doesn't have a specific flushing regime that may take days or weeks before first turning the shaft.
There's nothing "optimum" (nor even magic) about a regular OCI for the very first interval on a new car...it's marketting.
And it obviously works, as you are creating conspiracy strawmen in your defence of it.
No kidding.
Let's address this leveraged wear metals at break in and their abrasive ness. Are we to believe those abrasive particulate isn't being filtered out and if it is then running a longer first interval is smarter because the filter loads fast and thereby filters better which keeps that particulate out of the engine itself,and when you drain the factory fill you also wash out all that extremely high moly assembly lube which I'd rather try to keep in as long as possible.
I've learned that Honda doesn't use a special break in oil,that high moly from the factory fill is from the assembly lubes used.
I've got friends in Allston that work for Honda and they made inquiries to power train.
Do no special break in oil,just special assembly lubes which are why the oil has such a high level of friction modifiers.
And let's address that post about pouring 1000 mile oil back into the dump. Sure it'll look ugly but that's the assembly lubes and greases making it look that way.
When I put the new cams and 106 kit on my harley I fell for the early change ideas but I kept the same filter and my oil looked great,no metallic flecks and pretty much clear,as 100 mile oil should look so after seeing with my own eyes I'm drifting over to the leave it alone camp now.
Sure an engine is shredding metal when new but I saw no evidence of that metal in the drained oil,the filter once cut open was sparkling though but the oil looked like oil to me.