how does ARX increase compression?

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Myself and another member of a different car forum have been recommending ARX to people who's car sound like a good candidate.
A third party person over there is doubting that a cleaning product can raise compression numbers. I even linked Aaron (i think thats his name) website with the 240sx compression numbers.

So what is the mechanism by which it works? I thought perhaps that by cleaning the ring pack it allows it to form the original seal again, as with other engine seals, and that causes the compression to return near normal.

Any thoughts????
 
quote:

Originally posted by Big O Dave:
It cleans the piston rings, which enables them to seal better, thus you get more compression... not more than new, just more than it was with all the buildup on the rings.

Exactly! Combustion pressure can't force the rings tight against the cylinder walls if carbon is holding them back.
 
Surfstar, Send them to the Cycle-RX.com website that showed a well maintained ( by Harley dealer,Harely service schedule with Harley parts), HD that gained up to 50 psi compression from pre test levels.

On the Suzuki test the compression did not measurably change ( rings sealed well already) in the shared engine and trans sump, wear was lowered as wear particles were scavenged WITHOUT increasing wear while cleaning.

Auto/Cycle-RX is not magic, it is a unique bio based lubricious ester chemistry that is safe and effective at cleaning gently.

If the internals are clean then the lubricant can form a better seal for DESIGN performance and lower wear.

That honestly translates into MPG increases.
 
My Question is how safe is this stuff to work around. I usualy sell Wynns "tune up" as a 15 min clean before changing customers oil. THe fumes when you pull the plug are something else :)

I also own a Wynns engine flush machine. Nothing special. Its basicaly an inline filter and you remove the filter and hook up there. And we add into circulation a liter of cleaner. I found using it on my Escort even though it was low milage 30-40 thousand KILOMETERS and the oil gets changed every 3000k the car ran noticably smoother after runner a liter of their cleaner in the engine for 15 min or so. So I'm a big believer in using cleaning agents once or twice a year. Seeing as I use these a lot I'm woundering about my health too :)
 
surfstar,
When any well used engine is taken apart, there is carbon in the ring grooves. This carbon causes the rings to stick in the grooves instead of flexing freely and conforming to the cylinder wall and sealing as they should. Auto-Rx cleans the ring grooves and frees up the rings to move. If there is damage or excessive wear, nothing will help except new parts.

oilmanatwork,
The MSDS for Auto-Rx is null...nothing toxic in it. It looks like thick prune juice, and my guess is that if you drank it, it would have the same effect---but don't try this at home, boys and girls.
http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/msds.html


Ken
 
Like said above ^^ concerning rings/lands, but also the rings are sealed by compression/combustion pressure, and being clean will allow gas to evenly push them out against the cyl walls.
 
oilmanatwork, one of the developers of Auto-RX is a cancer patient and that is EXACTLY why he was motivated to develop Auto-RX.

After years of being around toxic solvent chemistries used in the printing machine industry he is convinced that those harsh solvents toasted his health.

It gives me pause to be roughly 20 years his junior and have been exposed to many of the same nasty chemistries too.
 
We are getting high oil consumption something like 1 Ltr per 1000 miles. After checking the hose connecting the crankcase to the PCV valve, there is minute amounts of oil leakage (not dripping but quite a bit of oil on the hose near and below the PCV valve) there. Actual condition is pictured below...



here is a closeup:


Only done 43000 miles.

Would changing the OCV valve sove teh oil leaking problem OR is there a real compression issue we must get engine inspected ?

All your helpful replies will be much appreciated!
 
Last edited:
Im re-posting the message... hopefully you can see teh pics now
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We are getting high oil consumption something like 1 Ltr per 1000 miles. After checking the hose connecting the crankcase to the PCV valve, there is minute amounts of oil leakage (not dripping but quite a bit of oil on the hose near and below the PCV valve) there. Actual condition is pictured below...



here is a closeup:


Only done 43000 miles.

Would changing the OCV valve sove teh oil leaking problem OR is there a real compression issue we must get engine inspected ?

All your helpful replies will be much appreciated!
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No pictures again. I would check the PCV valve and the hose associate with it. Be certain the hose is clear, and the PCV valve is operational. If you have to replace the PCV valve get an OEM valve and not an aftermarket part. I learned that more than once over the years. This might help with your oil use, there could be other problems too.
 
Sorry... photos should show up now:
We are getting high oil consumption something like 1 Ltr per 1000 miles. After checking the hose connecting the crankcase to the PCV valve, there is minute amounts of oil leakage (not dripping but quite a bit of oil on the hose near and below the PCV valve) there. Actual condition is pictured below, pls see in the oil leaked at the middle RHS of this picture...

ToyotaDiesel-OilLeakingatPCVhoseImage4736.jpg


here is a closeup:
ToyotaDiesel-OilLeakingatPCVhoseImage4735.jpg

Only done 43000 miles.

Would changing the PCV valve solve this oil leakage problem OR is there a real compression issue we must get engine inspected ?

All your helpful replies will be much appreciated!
 
Some cars have PCV systems that get a lot of actual oil coming through and not only fumes, over time this can lead to oil residue lining the intake manifold and getting some oil(aside from blow-by) at the point where the fuel/spark does it's thing(causing reduced fuel economy etc). I'd remove the PCV and clean it, make sure it moves with minimal effort still or just replace it. Because of this reason, I clean my intake and top-end out using a foam cleaner and let it soak for 1-2 hours during the summer once a year. This helps clean the intake and gives me a moment to examine the PCV for oil residue/gunk formation, a problem on one of my application more so than the others.
 
Yes Leaking - but not leaking from the seals, but just at teh hose as seen in the pictures (see at "right hand side in the center").

Consuming Oil - Perhaps yes because a level drop in the dipstick of ~1.5 Liters within Then we must add 1-1.5 Liters otherwise startup issues emerge.
So I am certain some if not all oil loss is going into "consumption" and the balance or ~50% is being lost in leakage, clearly seen at the hose joint exiting from the Crankcase Cover going into the Intake hose.
 
Originally Posted By: fpracha
Yes Leaking - but not leaking from the seals, but just at teh hose as seen in the pictures (see at "right hand side in the center").

Consuming Oil - Perhaps yes because a level drop in the dipstick of ~1.5 Liters within Then we must add 1-1.5 Liters otherwise startup issues emerge.
So I am certain some if not all oil loss is going into "consumption" and the balance or ~50% is being lost in leakage, clearly seen at the hose joint exiting from the Crankcase Cover going into the Intake hose.


Hi fp,
I do not think you are losing that much as a leak from PCV hose as pictured in your photos, if you were losing .75L per 1000 miles at that joint I think you would see much, much more oil coating much more on that side of the engine. I suspect that the reason you are seeing what oil you are seeing at that spot is that most of the oil is sucked through that hose and ends up in your intake manifold to be combusted with the fuel. I would ask is this 2L diesel living most of the time in its upper rpm range while operated? Next while not ruling it out I would not suspect overly dirty rings or excessive blowby yet until other indications can be given or investigations can be followed.
 
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