How do you open an old filter?

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I keep reading about people opening their used filters to see what shaper filter media is in, how much #@$%! is in it, etc. How do you do it? What tools are used?

Do you use a rotary tool and a cutter bit? Do you use a jigsaw with a metal saw bit? How?

thanks
 
I use a No 3 wheel-type Cast Iron pipe cutter available at the local "China-tool" outlet for around $16.

Works great. No heat, No mess and leaves a nice smooth cut.
 
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It looks like this.

The action is the same as the expensive oil filter cutters.
 
I've been using a hacksaw and a vise. But I think I'm going to get a #3 pipe cutter real soon.

The only question is, how far up from the base does the cutter cut? 1/2"? 3/4"?
 
Well I spent $25 for a big pipe cutter like MonumentOiler shows above, but it didn't cut for ****. I even sharpened the wheel and it still didn't work. I am back to the hacksaw and hoping that someday I will need a pipe cutter to justify the $25. If you want a fancy oil filter opener, I would suggest getting one that is specifically made for opening oil filters. Or ask MonumentOiler how he does it. I must be a klutz.

EDIT: Well maybe I only paid $17 because I am pretty sure I ordered if from Harbor Freight.
 
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Tall Paul - I had some trouble on my first few filters but now they cut fast and clean. Try it again using these tips and tell me if you have better luck.
- The paint has to be worn off the cutting wheel to get the sharpest edge so when it's brand new it's not that sharp. I would not try and clean or sharpen just use it on a few cheap or used filters first and know that it will get sharper
- practice on a few used or cheap filters to get good at it before cutting open a vigin $20 EaO for BITOG Centerfold shots
- clean and oil the screw and slides and work them until they are smooth(er) (mine had a lot of packing grease on them)
- when you set the the filter in the cutter place the "Rim/seam" on the thread side of the filter just outside of the support wheels (the can gets cut at approximately 9mm from the seam on my cutter)
- you want to cut on the sidewall of the can not at the seam. At the seam there is the plate that prevents the wall from slightly bending in and it is more difficult to cut
- if the seam is placed on the support wheels then the can tends to wobble and the wheel goes all over the place
- ease the cutting wheel forward till it just barely touches the filter
- turn the filter by hand 3-4 revolutions and then crank the screw a quarter turn or so to cut just a little deeper
- The cutting action is more like a lathe than a can opener . A little grove that gets deeper over multiple revolutions. Not all the way open in one revolution
- the cut should feel more like a scribe marking metal than a tin snip cutting/tearing metal
- rotate the filter not the cutter
- It would be easiest if you can mount the cutter in a vise with the opening facing you and you could rotate the filter by hand (Warning: be mindful of the blade) with the second hand to adjust the screw
- I am still doing the whole process while holding the back of the cutter in my left hand opening facing me and "can" end of the filter in my right to rotate
- the toughest cans to cut are the thinest ones as they bend rather than cut. Do more revolutions with smaller tightening cranks. Less pressure, smaller cut with each revolution.

Hope this helps.
 
I have opened 15-20 filters over the years with my Red Devil utility knife. Take a small screwdriver and punch a starter hole and go to it just below the seam. Takes only a minute or two. No debris.
 
I just opened the two garage sale Frams. Worked pretty well. They are small filters and so there was less flex in the can which may have helped. Seems the one I tried was a Motorcraft FL1A and it kept crushing the can. I think the trick is to get the cutter close enough to the metal base plate to add some support to the can. This was easy on the frams as the lip on the can is inset vs raised on many filters. Will try on my next filter, a Wix. Also, when rotating the filter it seems to work better to rotate counter clockwise (from the closed end) through the cutter so you are coming into the cutter from above, not below. Tracking is the other problem as the can wants to wobble, so I had to continually direct the can to keep the cutter in the right place. Once it breaks throught, it seems to cut pretty well. I would like to rig this horizontally though so oil would not drip out during the cutting. Anyway, I think I have begun to get the hang of it. Thanks MonumentOiler.
 
TallPaul- Glad it worked for you. Good idea about a horizontal installation. Most of mine so far have been new filters for comparison or really old well-drained ones.

It would probably be easy to drill two holes in the spine of the cutter to mount on a bench or a board that could be placed in a vise.
 
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