Honda Battery Question

[HBCALI]

Took my 2001 Accord in for the usuall oil change and "multi-point" inspection at my local Honda dealer. I have a Die Hard Gold battery from 2008 they said "needed" to be replaced. I opted to do some research first. Even though I didnt buy my current battery (previous owner did), I would assume the 3yr free replacement warranty would still be valid.

Anyways, the dealer stated my battery was at 427 CCA (a new OEM battery has 490 CCA). No problems starting, cranking or with electrical. Charging system works well.

So here's my question: Is 427 CCA so huge a difference that the battery should be replaced today? To me, it shows the battery is simply loosing charge (as expected) over it's natural life-span. But replacing it seems premature. Thoughts...

 

[sciphi]

I'd get a second opinion. Take it to a national chain auto parts store and ask for a charging system test. Look at the printout, and don't listen to the counter jockey who wants to sell you that battery.

What are weather conditions like for you? And, is it possible that battery will see any extremely cold winter conditions?

 

[The_Eric]

The Die Hard should list it's CCA somewhere. I'd say that if it's 550 or less then you'll be fine for now. It would be a good idea however to have it checked again by winter.

My opinion is that they are likely trying to sell an unneeded product.

edit: You can try to exchange it for a new one under warranty but they'll likely test it - then you'll know if it's good or bad.

 

[eljefino]

Interesting factoid, CCA are rated for a continuous 30 seconds, and your car will start a lot faster than that. And your starter will typically draw a little under 200 amps. IOW there's a reserve capacity. Of course Honda engineers were counting on that reserve capacity for bad (I won't say worst) case scenarios.

I would worry about a battery so shot it was wreaking havoc on the rest of the car's electricals, even if it still started. You don't sound like you're there yet.

I brought home a junker with shorted cell. Still started (slowly) but ran poorly at idle with the lights on with the alternator giving all she had, and needing a little more.

 

[hemitom]

400 cca is more than enough to start a honda accord. I remember are 440 ci new yorker only having 500cca batterys in the 70s they would crank those big engines over but you had better hope it stared within the first few cranks in the dead of winter or its was lights outs.

 

[hemitom]

Also i think CCA are a rating taken at -18 if i remember correctly.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Interesting factoid, CCA are rated for a continuous 30 seconds, and your car will start a lot faster than that. And your starter will typically draw a little under 200 amps. IOW there's a reserve capacity. Of course Honda engineers were counting on that reserve capacity for bad (I won't say worst) case scenarios.

I would worry about a battery so shot it was wreaking havoc on the rest of the car's electricals, even if it still started. You don't sound like you're there yet.

I brought home a junker with shorted cell. Still started (slowly) but ran poorly at idle with the lights on with the alternator giving all she had, and needing a little more.



^This. One of our batteries is starting to go and it's beginning to show signs by the idle problems with headlights on, instrument panel lights flickering intermittently, etc. Even though it starts the vehicle, I did have a bad battery report from a test at a local chain. I'm going by an Interstate Battery location tomorrow to have the cells tested, I'm sure one or two have bad sulfate levels present.

What is easier to replace? Battery or alternator? What is more expensive? Each app is different, some alternators simply need brushes serviced, etc.

 

[dwendt44]

Given the size/amperage of most modern alternators,they should handle the full load at idle.

MY TEST: Idle engine. Turn on EVERYTHING electrical. lights, CD/tape player, fan on high, high beams, interior lights, set parking brake. Put transmission in drive, and turn on hazard lights.
If the 'idiot' light comes on the alternator is bad or going bad.
They should pull 12.5 volts at this test.

 

[JoeWGauss]

I wouldn't be obsessed with the brand of the battery, Interstate is made by Johnson Controls just like the majority of them sold in the USA today.

Chose one of the JC brands that gives you the best price and warranty and get the best deal.

Interstate is no better or worse than any other brand made by JC.

 

[ComfyShorts]

Originally Posted By: HBCALI
the 3yr free replacement warranty would still be valid.

---Not transferable unless family.

Quote:
Anyways, the dealer stated my battery was at 427 CCA (a new OEM battery has 490 CCA). No problems starting, cranking or with electrical. Charging system works well.

---CCA when tested is relative to state of charge of the battery, if key was say left in accessory or doors open so lights were on and battery was slightly undercharged the CCA goes down.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Given the size/amperage of most modern alternators,they should handle the full load at idle.

MY TEST: Idle engine. Turn on EVERYTHING electrical. lights, CD/tape player, fan on high, high beams, interior lights, set parking brake. Put transmission in drive, and turn on hazard lights.
If the 'idiot' light comes on the alternator is bad or going bad.
They should pull 12.5 volts at this test.


Not sure if my dummy light works, lol.

Can't speak for the OP, but the alternator on my car is only rated at 70A stock.

 

[brianl703]

Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Given the size/amperage of most modern alternators,they should handle the full load at idle.

MY TEST: Idle engine. Turn on EVERYTHING electrical. lights, CD/tape player, fan on high, high beams, interior lights, set parking brake. Put transmission in drive, and turn on hazard lights.
If the 'idiot' light comes on the alternator is bad or going bad.
They should pull 12.5 volts at this test.


I do all that plus I have a DC ammeter clipped onto the alternator output wire so I can see how much it's producing.

 

[06jds377]

Originally Posted By: hemitom
400 cca is more than enough to start a honda accord. I remember are 440 ci new yorker only having 500cca batterys in the 70s they would crank those big engines over but you had better hope it stared within the first few cranks in the dead of winter or its was lights outs.


All a battery had to do back then was turn the starter, there are a lot of other demands placed on batteries while cranking now - seems to be even more with DI engines.

Mercury Marine mandates batteries rated for 1000CA in a lot of it's new outboards featuring DI or electronic controls because they require "clean power", which means voltage can't fall too much or you will experience problems with the onboard electrical systems. I'm sure you could see how this would cross over to cars.

 

[hemitom]

I don't know if you ever tried to start a big block engine at 20 below zero? a battery could not even handle that let alone run anything else.

 

[hsd]

Originally Posted By: hemitom
Also i think CCA are a rating taken at -18 if i remember correctly.

CCA is number of amps delivered for 30 seconds at 0 F.
Some manufacturers also list a CA rating which is tested at 32 F and results in a much higher number of amps. Be sure which one (CCA or CA) you are using for battery comparison.

 

[Schmoe]

The second you recognize the engine is cranking slower, just get a new battery and forgetaboutit... PLUS you were at the DEALER and I bet the had a "special" running on batteries right now. Don't fall for that [censored].