The two things that concern me are the clunking when beginning to speed up after coasting (only when at operating temp) and the dark fluid in such a short time. Don't know if something is slowly self destructing in the transmission.
Help 2006 Toyota Sienna burnt T-IV fluid
- Thread starter robd
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Interesting discussion. I have the same 5-speed U151F tranny in RAV4 and it's specified for WS fluid. I did not know that it was previously specified for T-IV. Makes sense as it has a dipstick and it's not sealed like the trannies developed for WS.
So much for the strong language from Toyota that WS is the only way to go. CAFE again.
So much for the strong language from Toyota that WS is the only way to go. CAFE again.
This transaxle seems to have different fluid requirements for different vehicles. I was told 2007 and up Siennas have the WS fluid while the 2006 still had the T-IV.
Rob,
I'd clean the transmission with Auto-Rx and then flush and refill with your choice of any top quality ATF recommended to replace T-IV. Amsoil is excellent, but it isn't the only one.
You might read the paperwork you got with your extended service contract. (It is not a warranty.) That will describe exactly what you must do to keep it in force. The choice of ATF isn't a big deal as I see it as long as the ATF meets or exceeds T-IV performance. They're all red and no tech will know what brand or what pedigree of ATF you're using.
Unless the service contract specifies that you must get all work done at a Toyota dealership and use only Toyota parts, then you can get required work done at any place not prohibited by the fine print in the contract. (No, the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act does NOT apply, 'cuz the extended service contracts are not warranties regardless of what the salesmen call them.)
I'd clean the transmission with Auto-Rx and then flush and refill with your choice of any top quality ATF recommended to replace T-IV. Amsoil is excellent, but it isn't the only one.
You might read the paperwork you got with your extended service contract. (It is not a warranty.) That will describe exactly what you must do to keep it in force. The choice of ATF isn't a big deal as I see it as long as the ATF meets or exceeds T-IV performance. They're all red and no tech will know what brand or what pedigree of ATF you're using.
Unless the service contract specifies that you must get all work done at a Toyota dealership and use only Toyota parts, then you can get required work done at any place not prohibited by the fine print in the contract. (No, the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act does NOT apply, 'cuz the extended service contracts are not warranties regardless of what the salesmen call them.)
I have switched both of my toyotas over to Redline ATF and Bypass filtration. The tacoma is running D6 and the camry has the very popular D4. Both perform much better than with the stock fluids. I absolutely hated the T-IV. Complete and total junk. Comparable to Honda Z1.
I recently changed the tranny oil on my sister's 2006 Toyota Camry's. She had 40k on the clock and the factory fluid was still red. I performed 2 drain and fills and the car.
At the same time, I changed out the tranny oil on my mother's Mazda 6 which had 33k on the clock. The factory tranny oil was black.
Both cars have Amsoil ATF in the tranny now.
-ttvr4
At the same time, I changed out the tranny oil on my mother's Mazda 6 which had 33k on the clock. The factory tranny oil was black.
Both cars have Amsoil ATF in the tranny now.
-ttvr4
Originally Posted By: Ken2
Rob,
I'd clean the transmission with Auto-Rx and then flush and refill with your choice of any top quality ATF recommended to replace T-IV. Amsoil is excellent, but it isn't the only one.
You might read the paperwork you got with your extended service contract. (It is not a warranty.) That will describe exactly what you must do to keep it in force. The choice of ATF isn't a big deal as I see it as long as the ATF meets or exceeds T-IV performance. They're all red and no tech will know what brand or what pedigree of ATF you're using.
Unless the service contract specifies that you must get all work done at a Toyota dealership and use only Toyota parts, then you can get required work done at any place not prohibited by the fine print in the contract. (No, the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act does NOT apply, 'cuz the extended service contracts are not warranties regardless of what the salesmen call them.)
I agree basically, but would not put the needed 1K miles for an Auto-Rx cleaning on burnt ATF. I'd get some SuperTech ATF speced for your car and maybe go 2K with an Auto-Rx cleaning and then flush and go with a top rated synthetic.
A Magnefine inline filter would be a good addition also. I have one on my Camry and Jeep Cherokee.
Rob,
I'd clean the transmission with Auto-Rx and then flush and refill with your choice of any top quality ATF recommended to replace T-IV. Amsoil is excellent, but it isn't the only one.
You might read the paperwork you got with your extended service contract. (It is not a warranty.) That will describe exactly what you must do to keep it in force. The choice of ATF isn't a big deal as I see it as long as the ATF meets or exceeds T-IV performance. They're all red and no tech will know what brand or what pedigree of ATF you're using.
Unless the service contract specifies that you must get all work done at a Toyota dealership and use only Toyota parts, then you can get required work done at any place not prohibited by the fine print in the contract. (No, the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act does NOT apply, 'cuz the extended service contracts are not warranties regardless of what the salesmen call them.)
I agree basically, but would not put the needed 1K miles for an Auto-Rx cleaning on burnt ATF. I'd get some SuperTech ATF speced for your car and maybe go 2K with an Auto-Rx cleaning and then flush and go with a top rated synthetic.
A Magnefine inline filter would be a good addition also. I have one on my Camry and Jeep Cherokee.
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I'd go with a remote filter that uses an oil filter like those found at Summit Racing. It's a lot more convenient to buy an uber-common oil filter and just screw it on.
I think LubeGard Automatic Transmission Flush (everything that LubeGard makes has been top-notch and effective in my experience) should be used, followed by a pan-off fluid and filter change. Check the filter and pan for bits of TCC friction material. It will look like dirt with consistent particle color and size. If you see that stuff, you may need a new clutch pack.
Link for LubeGard: http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-178/LUBEGARD+Transmission+Flush
Link for LubeGard: http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-178/LUBEGARD+Transmission+Flush
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Install a supplemental ATF cooler and stick with a time or mileage based drain/refill regimen.
I doubt that anything is self destructing. Your drivetrain is just overstressed in your application and driving style. Get the cooler!
A UOA is needed.
I doubt that anything is self destructing. Your drivetrain is just overstressed in your application and driving style. Get the cooler!
A UOA is needed.
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I would take it to a transmission shop or the Dealership which ever is cheaper and get it flushed. From then on I would change the fluid every 15K. My Mom's Tundra says to change the fluid every 15K you can only get about 4 quarts out draining the pan. I have done this faithfuly and here fluid looks and smells like new. I plan on doing the same thing with here car which is behind schedule it has 23K on it and has not been changed yet.
I have a Toyo Highlander and I religious drain and fill T-IV every 10K miles. ATF is cheap (compared to > 30K investment) why not change fluids regularly. Having said that the way I look at PM is what harm will it do, I see only good coming out the exercise.
Originally Posted By: robd
At around 53000 miles back in January I checked the fluid on my wifes Sienna before a big road trip and the fluid was black. I did 3 drain and refills of the transmission with the reccomended T-IV fluid. Now with about 64000 miles on the van the fluid is almost black again and the transmission is clunking (dead spot)if you let off on the gas pedal and then try to increase speed going about 30 mph in what appears to be fourth gear. This fluid was quoted by Toyota to be a lifetime fluid on the dipstick but I'm wondering if leaving it in there for 53000 miles could have damaged the transmission? We live in a very hilly area of Pennsylvania and the van spends most of its time going from one hill to the next. What is the expected life of the Toyota T-IV fluid?
My RX was doing the same thing! I cleared the ecm,and now it seemed to have stopped.BTW their is a tsb on those trannies for gear hunting etc.
At around 53000 miles back in January I checked the fluid on my wifes Sienna before a big road trip and the fluid was black. I did 3 drain and refills of the transmission with the reccomended T-IV fluid. Now with about 64000 miles on the van the fluid is almost black again and the transmission is clunking (dead spot)if you let off on the gas pedal and then try to increase speed going about 30 mph in what appears to be fourth gear. This fluid was quoted by Toyota to be a lifetime fluid on the dipstick but I'm wondering if leaving it in there for 53000 miles could have damaged the transmission? We live in a very hilly area of Pennsylvania and the van spends most of its time going from one hill to the next. What is the expected life of the Toyota T-IV fluid?
My RX was doing the same thing! I cleared the ecm,and now it seemed to have stopped.BTW their is a tsb on those trannies for gear hunting etc.
Brought back from beyond.......
Wow, this is still going. The rest of the story we ended up switching to Valvoline Maxlife ATF and fluid stayed much more red. As far as the clunking we had it until we traded it in 2010 but it never got any worse. Never thought this post would last this long. The maxlife was a much better fluid.
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