Getting ready to use AutoRX on 166,000mi Mercedes

[Myndex]

I have a 1980 Mercedes 450SL, and after reading everywhere that AutoRX is great, I'm actually convinced (it has takes some days of reading to convince me, having had bad experiences with other additives in years past).

My engine runs well, but is leaking oil, particularly out of the rear seal. I don't know if the seal is torn, and as it costs nearly $1000 to replace, it seems spending a couple hundred on AutoRX treatments is warranted first.

QUESTIONS:

My car takes about 9 quarts of oil so I'll be adding 18 oz of ARX with a clean oil change and then driving 2500 miles.

Some people have indicated that you should change the filter at least once in the first cleaning cycle, though the ARX site does not mention this. Should I? I'm think that a filter change at 1200 miles, and then top off with fresh oil and more ARX.

At 1500 miles, I'm going to put 6 oz in the transmission. Then back to JiffyLube 1000 miles later, for the oil/filter on the engine to start the rinse cycle, and a complete fluid exchange for the transmission.


So, now a rinse for the next 3000 miles. ARX indicates changing the filter only at 1500 miles. Some places I've read indicate people changing the filter as frequently as 250 miles during the rinse phase. Should I? Any real benefit?

After this rinse, then do one more complete cycle of cleaning, then rinse.

After this final rinse, I'd like to go to a synthetic oil, though the ARX site indicates that this may cause additional leaking. What if I use a heavier weight synthetic, like Mobil 15W-50?


That mainly leaves my power steering (which I am probably going to have rebuilt due to play in the steering box), and my fuel injection.

Is there a good fuel system cleaner? An AutoRX for fuel injectors? I have CIS fuel injectors, which can't be backflushed (i.e. only replaced with new ones when fully clogged) but I'd like to try cleaning in place.


Thanks for any comments

Andy


http://www.my450SL.com

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Myndex
My engine runs well, but is leaking oil, particularly out of the rear seal. I don't know if the seal is torn, and as it costs nearly $1000 to replace, it seems spending a couple hundred on AutoRX treatments is warranted first.




Fair enough. Keep a balanced outlook (your logic is good), since it cannot fix torn or severely damaged seals, etc.

Quote:
QUESTIONS:

My car takes about 9 quarts of oil so I'll be adding 18 oz of ARX with a clean oil change and then driving 2500 miles.

Some people have indicated that you should change the filter at least once in the first cleaning cycle, though the ARX site does not mention this. Should I? I'm think that a filter change at 1200 miles, and then top off with fresh oil and more ARX.



I don't think it is a bad idea, if there is a situation that junk is causing the filter to go into bypass. You certainly won't hurt anything unless so much ARX is caught up in the filter that it effects the concentration in the oil.

Quote:
At 1500 miles, I'm going to put 6 oz in the transmission. Then back to JiffyLube 1000 miles later, for the oil/filter on the engine to start the rinse cycle, and a complete fluid exchange for the transmission.


So, now a rinse for the next 3000 miles. ARX indicates changing the filter only at 1500 miles. Some places I've read indicate people changing the filter as frequently as 250 miles during the rinse phase. Should I? Any real benefit?

After this rinse, then do one more complete cycle of cleaning, then rinse.



The intervals are good if they are per the instructions. I'd be concerned though about changing the ATF without dropping the pan and replacing the filter - this is a general thing. How many miles on the AT? Condition of the AT? Shift quality? Is this AT vacuum modulated like the diesels? Have you ever dropped the pan and looked at the filter? I prefer a more general change schedule for the AT. Id drop the pan and replace the filter, then do a few fluid swaps, then after a while, re-do the filter and then refill again. After baselining the fluid/filter, then maybe move to ARX. Remember that RX deposits junk into the filter, so Id be careful with doing fluid swaps, especially without baselining the filter and especially with ARX in there.


Quote:
After this final rinse, I'd like to go to a synthetic oil, though the ARX site indicates that this may cause additional leaking. What if I use a heavier weight synthetic, like Mobil 15W-50?


Likely will not do a thing, unfortunately. That engine likely requires a 15w-40 or 15w-50 anyway... Id run a 5w-40 HDEO in there myself.

Quote:


That mainly leaves my power steering (which I am probably going to have rebuilt due to play in the steering box), and my fuel injection.

Is there a good fuel system cleaner? An AutoRX for fuel injectors? I have CIS fuel injectors, which can't be backflushed (i.e. only replaced with new ones when fully clogged) but I'd like to try cleaning in place.


Amsoil PI, redline SI, or Gumout Regane are good, Chevron concentrate Techron is good too. Do these before an oil change.

Does your power steering have a reservoir with a removable filter in the bottom? If so, do a few changes with ATF, and I'd bet youll be fine. ARX is always a possibility.

I like using Lube control's LC20 for the oil, ATF and PSF, and fuel power FP60 for routine maintenance in low dose of the fuel. I also run some schaeffer's #132 in the mix with my LC20 in the lube oil.


GOOD LUCK!!! and

 

[c3po]

I would do the Clean & Rinse, but on the auto-rx site they have an application for seal leaks. I would not go back to a synthetic oil until your rear main seal leak is taken care of.

I would also check the condition of your Torsional Dampner or as others call it a Harmonic Balancer, if this is worn you can have some play in the crankshaft which can cause rear main seal leaks.

If you really want to take care of the rear main seal leak then look up the application on auto-rx.com for seal leaks.

Amsoil PI and Redline Fuel System Cleaner are good products, I would read the posts in the fuel additive section to get an idea of what is best for you.

 

[VK56VD]

Welcome to the site. You can certainly do a filter change half way during the clean and rinse phase.

It will give you a piece of mind of the filter not going into by pass.

Please don't take your classic to Jiffy Lube. Most grease monkey's that work there don't deserve and do not know how to treat such a fine automobile. Buy your own oil and change it yourself. Worst case scenario, buy your oil and filter and take it a private mechanic you trust, to do the oil change for you, using your own filter and oil.

Use a regular conventional oil for the clean and rinse phase. No synthetics, High Mileage or Blends.

Hope you notice difference in the operation of this vehicle after the treatments.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Spartuss

Please don't take your classic to Jiffy Lube. Most grease monkey's that work there don't deserve and do not know how to treat such a fine automobile. Buy your own oil and change it yourself. Worst case scenario, buy your oil and filter and take it a private mechanic you trust, to do the oil change for you, using your own filter and oil.


+1

 

[Boomer]

+2 on avoiding Jiffy Lube!

 

[Myndex]

The guys at the JL in particular that I go to are okay, and I stand there and supervise the work, instructing them on what to do and what not to touch on my car.

A

 

[Crashbox]

+3 on avoiding jIffy Lube!

 

[sprintman]

9 quarts means two full bottles. Find an oil with zero PAO or ester content. Make sure engine isn't running cold, long trips are better and drive it like you stole it. Run longer than 2,500 miles and change filter at halfway point. I ran 5,500kms on the clean in my BMW. Sorry it isn't a Merc but close enough IMO. you will need a second application with 166,000 miles. and yes I have a lot of experience with RX over many years. Cheers...stephen

 

[bmwtechguy]

Those engines do well on heavier oils overall, and where you are located I would not go thinner than a 10W-40 or 15W-40. For your Auto-Rx treatments, stick with whatever sale oil you can find in a 10W-40(not high mileage) or 15W-40(rated for gas or diesel). I would personally use regular 10w-40 Chevron or equivalent brand on sale for your clean phase, and then switch to a non-syn 15W-40 for the rinse.)

You don't need or want synthetic oil while doing Auto-Rx clean or rinse phases, and 3000 miles is not too long on regular oil. If your leak does not stop after ARX treatment(s), I would seriously look at Maxlife in a 10W-40 or 20W-50. This is one awesome oil for lowering your consumption and has greatly reduced the rear main leak on my higher mileage car. I use Maxlife in this car with the Auto-Rx maintenance dose and this combo works way better than any full syn or conventional oil with a stop leak product added.

Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage might be another possibility for you when done with the ARX. I have not tried this one yet in my leaker.

 

[rg200amp]

Originally Posted By: Crashbox
+3 on avoiding jIffy Lube!


+4

 

[Rick20]

I would also check the PCV or similar crank case ventilation on your motor. I would like to highlight the previous post that specifies non synthetic oil for helping the rear main seal. Cleaning and rinse should be run on dino oil. This choice of oil has been proven to work in cleaning rear main or other rotational seals that were leaking due to an accumulation of contaminants at the seal/journal interface.

A functioning PCV valve or other crankcase breathing apparatus allows for the release of crankcase pressure. Sometimes seal leaks are due to blocked or inoperative PCV valves or systems.

Hope this helps.

 

[mcrn]

+5 on avoiding Jiffy Lube. Nice car by the way!

 

[wavinwayne]

Originally Posted By: mcrn
+5 on avoiding Jiffy Lube. Nice car by the way!


+6. I would recommend checking locally for an independent Mercedes mechanic, and let them handle the oil changes for you, assuming you don't have a place to do the work yourself.

 

[Shup1]

Originally Posted By: wavinwayne
Originally Posted By: mcrn
+5 on avoiding Jiffy Lube. Nice car by the way!


+6. I would recommend checking locally for an independent Mercedes mechanic, and let them handle the oil changes for you, assuming you don't have a place to do the work yourself.


-1 = 5

I use JL for all of my work on company cars...I do use the same two (Gainesville, Fl & Winston Salem, NC) and I will say over 200 k miles with no issues. Maybe the exception, not the rule?

 

[Rick20]

By far your best bet to correct the seal leaks is Auto-Rx. Just follow the applications over at their site. Use your own descretion on the quality of workmanship performed on your car over past history, if you farm out the work.

There is no oither product that has success on rotational seal leak issues like ARX.