The Redline?
Getting extremely confused on what to use in 2021 Veloster N
- Thread starter defury
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No, the HPL I linked pics to. No VII Euro 5w30.
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Sounds good, one question I have is that is listed as equivalent to A3/B4 (from memory might be wrong letters) but earlier in this thread it was mentioned that the C2/C3 is better for DIT carbon deposits. Is that accurate? Is it more nuanced? Should I seek out an HPL that mimicks the C2/C3 if it exists?
HPL has high levels of esters. Read the product page for No VII oils, you will see it clearly calls out specifically that it helps keep intake valves clean.
I like the Motul X-Clean EFE personally because of the low saps and high HTHS and I get it at cost. But then I went down the rabbit hole about LSPI and it not being SP etc. Doing more reading just now though it seems MB 229.52 has an LSPI test.
Maybe just stick with Motul until the warranty is up then go with the HPL listed above?
Good point, I checked the API directory and Redline isn't listed. Finding oil is becoming extremely frustrating. The weirdest part is X-Clean EFE being listed as both SP and SN, like *** is that supposed to mean.
It's a pipe dream but I'm basically hoping someone just comes along and says "X oil" and everyone agrees
MÖBIL ONE ZERODUBB FOORTY
I like the Motul X-Clean EFE personally because of the low saps and high HTHS and I get it at cost. But then I went down the rabbit hole about LSPI and it not being SP etc. Doing more reading just now though it seems MB 229.52 has an LSPI test.
Maybe just stick with Motul until the warranty is up then go with the HPL listed above?
I have wauge recollection that even A3/B4 have less of addatives (calcium) in newer blends to cause less LSPI.
Especially those that have SN+ cert.
What's considered low enough calcium to prevent LSPI, like the X-Clean EFE has around 1800 in a VOA and is SN but the Xcess gen 2 has a lot more and is now an SP.
**** is confusing, especially when I come across this (attachment)
Attachments
X-clean and EFE are C oils.
Dont compare calcium levels with A3/B4 regarding LSPI.
SAPS takes priority in that case I believe.
Or just dont mash the throttle pedal at 10mph in 3rd gear ffs.
LSPI isn't going to be an issue with a 2.0 here. It's mainly related to v. low displacement engines. You posted the oil requirements for this car in your OP. It guarantees the standard of performance your engine requires per the OE which is exactly what you wanted...someone to tell you what to get. It's why certs/approvals are a good thing. If you want a "meets/exceeds" or "recommended for" oil some of those options have also been listed. The warranty question is one of financial risk and a group of strangers on the internet aren't going to make that decision for you nor pay the cost of dealing with a denied warranty claim no matter how unlikely that is. You are way over-thinking this.I like the Motul X-Clean EFE personally because of the low saps and high HTHS and I get it at cost. But then I went down the rabbit hole about LSPI and it not being SP etc. Doing more reading just now though it seems MB 229.52 has an LSPI test.
Maybe just stick with Motul until the warranty is up then go with the HPL listed above?
Can you elaborate on that? The calcium levels I mean. It was my understanding the primary factor for LSPI is calcium levels with Xcess being an SP oil with higher calcium levels.
If it's not obvious I'm still pretty new to figuring out how all the certifications actually change the oil so I just assumed I could compare the A3/B4 too the C oils based on calcium. Does the higher SAPS in the AB oil change the LSPI characteristics?
And yeah I'll just avoid any situation where LSPI might occur regardless. But just for learning sake on this question, curious what you mean regarding SN rated C oils, Saps levels and calcium levels effect on LSPI when comparing a SP rated A3/B4.
Many other name brands of oil at Wal Mart that you might find NOT spooky..Velosters and Mobil 1 have a pretty spooky history I still haven't gotten over
Yes I am way over thinking this, it's a problem I have with pretty much everything.
The reason I'm hesitant to trust the manual is the same engine in the 2022 manuals in the Elantra N/Kona N requires SP and removed the C2 option completely.
So yes while technically I'm following my owners manual already the engine in the most recent applications moved to SP so I'm trying to understand how all the specifications interact/cross over but from the annoyed tone that's creeping into the thread I'm guessing that goal had jumped the shark.
I might just pick up some Pennzoil platinum or something else widely used with the right specs and hope for the best.
Brian123 said:
I think it's best to go with the recommendations like this at the start of the thread and stop overthinking it like you guys said.
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What is the oil that a new off-the-lot 2023 version of your car calls for? Remind me...SP gives you what again?
Do the Elantra/Kona N have the same engine as yours?
My take is simply that unless you are beating the snot out of it, basically whatever the OE calls for is just fine. Beating the snot out of it = road course track use....not a few WOT fun pulls around town or running a mountain road.
You're overthinking it buy any major full synthetic that's on sale!
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For your use case it really doesn’t matter, even on your back road runs you aren’t putting anywhere near as much stress on your oil as you think. If you were tracking the car, different story. Just change the oil more frequently if you are still uneasy about it, and use whatever your manual allows for. Motul is not some special sauce and if you’re going to run 5w-40 just use Brotella, I’m surprised as a former Subaru owner you don’t put that **** on everything including your vape already
Why Brotella over a Euro 5W40 with all the approvals?
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