generator oil recommendations

[Whimsey]

Originally Posted By: SubLGT
and Champion is specifying 10W30 for all temps above 0 degF. Champion only allows 5W30 at temps below 30 degF. Both are splash lubricated.


It appears that Champion is not specifying synthetic 5W-30 oil since it says to use when the temperature is below 30 deg F. My B&S generator is similar when using NON synthetic 5W-30. Where as synthetic 5W-30 can be used in all temperatures.

Whimsey

 

[Astro_Guy]

Originally Posted By: SubLGT
and Champion is specifying 10W30 for all temps above 0 degF. Champion only allows 5W30 at temps below 30 degF. Both are splash lubricated.

FWIIW - I am presently running Rotella T6 5w40 in my 3500 watt Champion. We haven't had a "real" power outage since that oil went in, but I did exercise it for 30 minutes over the Thanksgiving holiday. My idea of exercise is to hook it up to the transfer switch and load it up. IIRC the temperature was around 50 F for that exercise cycle.

Prior "real outage runs" of eight to ten hours were lubed with M1 5w30 and M1 5w20. The latter was a mistake, but the engine survived. Personally I still think that you should stick with the manufacturer's spec.

 

[NH73]

Not all small gas engine manufacturers learned that you can use 5w30 synthetic at all temperatures. With the ones that don't, go ahead and do, as longs it out of warrenty.

 

[Astro_Guy]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
The reason for so many generator failures here in Florida (post hurricanes) was not that the outside temperature was over 100, it was hot AND humid though. Nor was it that the oil level ran low. It was the fact that people place the generator next to the house, in stagnant air, and used the generator to power the water heater...

Why on earth would anyone want to heat water when it is over 100 degrees and humid? I can see running the refrigerator to keep the beer cold, or the freezer to make ice cubes for the gin and tonic, but heating water???

All joking aside, refrigerators and freezers are inductive loads; electric water heaters are resistive loads. Inductive loads are easier on the generator because their power demand can sag by up to 50% from nameplate capacity during startup, and the actual runtime demand might be only 1/6 of the nameplate rating. Resistive loads simply are what they are. I run our two full size refrigerators, the neighbor's full size refrigerator, and a 15 cubic foot chest freezer on a 3500 watt generator. That and quite a bit more, but most of it "on demand" as opposed to continuous. The Misses has dried her hair with a 1300 watt hair drier while all of the above was also running on generator. Likewise we have run the dishwasher thru a complete cycle with heated drying while all that refrigeration was running.

A little bit of planning can go a long way when it comes to generator sizing and life. Your mileage may vary, but the principle still applies.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
The reason for so many generator failures here in Florida (post hurricanes) was not that the outside temperature was over 100, it was hot AND humid though. Nor was it that the oil level ran low. It was the fact that people place the generator next to the house, in stagnant air, and used the generator to power the water heater and air conditioners. Hours and hours of full load gets the oil temperature up to absurd numbers. (this is quite unlike lawnmower or pressure washer duty, where the engine load is not 100% for hours on end)

5W-30 conventional oil is not an ideal choice when oil temps are near 300 degrees F. The result is predictable, and nearly always the same. The connecting rod is starved for oil film, metal to metal contact occurs and eventually, the connecting rod seizes to the crankshaft and the rod breaks.

I had 2 Honda engine failures (water pumps, used to de-water my property) due to this. I used the recommended 5W-30 oil. My third water pump gets Mobil 1 TDT oil.

If your generator is not used to heat water, or power a 4 ton air conditioner and it's operated under modest loads, the standard oil will be just fine.

If you choose to abuse your equipment, I suggest a more robust oil.


I thought the reason for failure was that they would go way too long in between oil changes. 50 hr intervals for example.. 2 days of running a genny and that oil is about shot.