GDI Engine Owners - What Oil ?

For GDI engines - the best base stocks with the lowest amount of viscosity improvers and NOACK are key to prevent intake valve deposits . Valvoline Advanced and M1 are very good in those respects , Quaker State Full Synthetic is the best in the value price category , Pennzoil Platinum is in the middle and Castrol is surprisingly poor . If I were to keep a GDI vehicle long term I would be concerned with the oil I chose as well as the OCI I decided to run .
What is this based on? I would like to read more info about how these brands are rated in regards to their formulations. I do not want to recommend Castrol to anyone if it is surprisingly poor.

Thanks!
 
My wife has a 2011 Sonata. We run Mobil 1 0W-20 on 7.5k mile OCIs. She is on her second engine though, due to the warranty/recall on those Theta-ii powerplants. The first one went until 215,000 before it blew up.

My car is a 2018 Mazda 6, and I run 0W-40 for 7.5k mile OCIs. Currently has ~82,000 on it.

Both cars are extensively highway use and don't get short tripped all that often.
 
2012 Impala DI Pennzoil Platinum 5k for 100k and was watered down for 5w30. Always dropped a quart warranting the change. Once all I had was Valvoline Advanced 5w30 and checked oil at 5k so we ran it out to 35% before changing at 8k. Last oil change it dropped a quart at 12k or 10% of olm. Valvoline Advanced for the win.
 
I think the most important thing is to limit your oil changes to 5000 mile intervals regardless of what your owners manual says. And this is why I think OLM's are the equivalent of idiot lights. But for the unwashed masses who rarely even check their oil or other fluid levels or air pressure, I understand why getting a warning on the dash when the oil should be changed is better than nothing.

I also understand that a low sulfated ash content in the oil is desirable in GDI engines. Is that correct ? The oil of choice for my 2019 Mazda CX 5 with the GDI turbo engine is 05W-30 Mobil 1 EP. That oil is supposed to be good for 20k OCI's under ideal conditions so it is pretty stout stuff. But I still change once a year which comes out to 5000 miles as I don't drive much in retirement and make a lot of short trips.

And I add a bottle of Techron to the last tank of gas prior to the oil change.
 
You went through a lot of work to ‘dis me with such a negative troll reply … Kind of creepy as well … I’m just trying to make conversation here from different angles . I believe you will find this to be a legit thread .
It's not a troll reply or a "diss".......it's a how many threads are you going to make on this subject reply. You make one almost weekly at this point talking about virtually the same/similar thing each time.
 
Who cares man.....that is what this forum is for.
Learning and communicating.
Stop skulking around someone's previous posts and write something helpful.
What are you, the post police?
Grow up.

Man you gotta love the internet,
How many threads does it take to learn and communicate when you make the same thread over and over again?

Stop skulking around my posts and write something helpful.
What are you, the post police?
Grow up.
 
For GDI engines - the best base stocks with the lowest amount of viscosity improvers and NOACK are key to prevent intake valve deposits . Valvoline Advanced and M1 are very good in those respects , Quaker State Full Synthetic is the best in the value price category , Pennzoil Platinum is in the middle and Castrol is surprisingly poor . If I were to keep a GDI vehicle long term I would be concerned with the oil I chose as well as the OCI I decided to run .
10W30 QS FS for low VM treat rate - and just a nice oil overall. But now you ain't in Georgia!

I frequently short trip (8 to 12 mi one-way) and I change the oil Spring and Late Fall. That works out to be only about a 2500 mile OCI.

The oil looks like well used kerosene parts washer fluid when it comes out. Colourful bubbles. Sooty and thin.

I have Valvoline advanced 5W30 in there now. It was on sale where QS was not. it had been a good oil. Not happy with full warmed engine noise with this batch. Runs like a 5W20 compared to the QS FS.

But, the engine may be done for after seeing some severe fuel dilution a few OCI ago. Sounds like rod bearing rap when you lift off the throttle.
Oh well, I have two more years of engine warranty.

p.s: From where did you get the "info' on VM and NOAK and who stated they are "key" to prevent intake deposits?
Oil is whipped into a mist and fog in the crankcase - it's going into the PCV and the intake regardless, IMHO.
Some may propose a Baffled Catch Can? I dislike adding "junk appendages" like that to a modern engine. Any such contraptions would have to be quickly dispatched if the engine went kablooey.

- Ken - in his drafty old log cabin on a hill
 
Who cares man.....that is what this forum is for.
Learning and communicating.
Stop skulking around someone's previous posts and write something helpful.
What are you, the post police?
Grow up.

Man you gotta love the internet,
100% right. I can never understand why people get upset by others asking questions about oil on an oil forum?!?!? If it upsets you, just ignore it.
 
I had a 2011Kia Optima with the (dreaded) 2.4 liter GDi. I presently have a Kia K5 with the 1.6 liter GDi. I buy whatever quality synthetic is on sale but most of my stash is Pennzoil. I am in the Great White North where the temperatures vary so much from winter to summer. I run mostly 5W30 in the summer and 5W20 in the winter. Why you ask... it makes me feel good. My car is speced for 0W20 all year long.
 
P.U.P. 5w-30 or 5w-20 . Try to keep oil intervals under 6,000 , especially with plenty of stop and go . Also , don't let engine idle for very long .
 
Wait wait wait. I was under the impression Castrol Edge was good for DI engines. I'm literally about to put it in my wifes new Mazda CX-5.....first oil change.

?
 
I believe engine oil with high BORON is beneficial to D.I. ( G.D.I. ) . P.U.P. 5w-20 and 5w-30 is one of them . These are S.P..
 
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What is this based on? I would like to read more info about how these brands are rated in regards to their formulations. I do not want to recommend Castrol to anyone if it is surprisingly poor.

Thanks!
Things that make you go hmmm.

I had two MB's in 2018--GLC43 with a 3.0TT DI and a C300 with a 2.0T and DI. From a fuel dilution "resistance" standpoint, I tried 3 different brands in each--Pennzoil Euro 0W-40, Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40, and Castrol Euro 0W-40.

Castrol worked best in the 3.0TT and Pennzoil worked best in the 2.0T. The 3.0TT made 2HP per cubic inch so it was a high-performance engine and the Castrol held up well.

I would want to see data that definitively shows that Castrol is a poor performer...
 
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