Fram vs. Bosch Filters

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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I would like to run the numbers, my gut says the tiny gap wouldn't flow adequately at higher volumes.


If the area between the end caps and the can is equal or greater than the area of the center hole in the base then it's gonna flow with no problems. Gotta run the numbers ... "visual analysis" doesn't work for this.
 
Example:

3" dia can. Area = 7.071 in^2.
2-7/8" dia end cap (gives 1/16" gap around annulus between can and end cap). Area = 6.494 in^2.

Area of annulus = 7.071 - 6.494 = 0.577 in^2.
Area of 3/4" mounting hole in base plate = 0.442 in^2.

So, you can see the total area of the annulus area between the can and end caps is more than the area of the main center hole in the base plate.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Example:

3" dia can. Area = 7.071 in^2.
2-7/8" dia end cap (gives 1/16" gap around annulus between can and end cap). Area = 6.494 in^2.

Area of annulus = 7.071 - 6.494 = 0.577 in^2.
Area of 3/4" mounting hole in base plate = 0.442 in^2.

So, you can see the total area of the annulus area between the can and end caps is more than the area of the main center hole in the base plate.
Thanks for doing the math !!!!
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
So why are the gaps much larger on quality aftermarket filters?


When I cut my PureOnes open, they don't seem to have much gap between the end caps and can either. I really doubt it's an issue on any filter. As the math shows, it doesn't have to be much of a gap to get the total annulus area equal to the outlet hole area.
 
The #1 issue with the "f"-brand is the conformity and quality ( or lack thereof) of the deep-drawn baseplate where the ADVB seal is effected. NOT paper end caps or plastic bypass valves. The eXtended Guard suffers the same faults - along with inadequate real-estate for the screened media in small form factors. BTW, flow simulation/anaylsis is perormed on 20K power PC running 100K $ software. The Layperson cannot guestimate flow capability of a filter by eyeballing it - so cut it out!
wink.gif
 
I personally wouldn't use a Fram on either of my engines, but some people do use them. Uninformed people that is. To the OP, go with the Bosch...it's a better designed and constructed filter with a proven track record. Can't say the same about a Fram filter.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The Tough Guard i cut open was a little more than a OCOD with a silicone valve.

It had a much tougher canister design, with a screen over bypass valve and the media is better.

But it still has that cardboard endcaps which reduce flow and can be glued poorly.
OK
 
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
Hmm........

Bosch Premiums are rebadged PureONE's.........
"Tearolator" status applies


Yes, there have been some reported Bosch filters with media tears.

Link to the Data

Summary Spreadsheet
 
Originally Posted By: steveh
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The Tough Guard i cut open was a little more than a OCOD with a silicone valve.

It had a much tougher canister design, with a screen over bypass valve and the media is better.

But it still has that cardboard endcaps which reduce flow and can be glued poorly.
OK

Yes, always good to get some highly scientific analysis.
whistle.gif
Or not.
 
Originally Posted By: pavelow
I personally wouldn't use a Fram on either of my engines, but some people do use them. Uninformed people that is. To the OP, go with the Bosch...it's a better designed and constructed filter with a proven track record. Can't say the same about a Fram filter.


I must be among the uninformed.
I used orange cans for years on engines run to well beyond 150K with no problems at all.
I've recently stocked up on ornage cans again due to the multitude of failures we've seen with Purolator oil filters as well as the dirt-cheap clearance pricing Lowe's offered them at.
I guess that we aren't all as well informed as you are.
 
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