Ford Focus Update

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Hey guys, a month and a half ago I purchased a 01 focus for 500 bucks that had a bad clutch. The car has 83k, and the interior is perfect. The outside has a couple scratches nothing major, and I had to replace the fuel cap cover that I got at a junkyard for 10 bucks the same color.

Well anyways, heres to the point. I was able to replace the clutch (oh what fun that was,) it is a MTX-75 transaxle. Manual recomends Mercon, but then ford changed that to thier ford manual transaxle fluid synthetic. I used Amsoil Sythetic 75-90 transaxle fluid that was recomended, was cheaper than the ford stuff.

I had to destroy the lower ball joints on each side because they were seized onto the knuckle. I put a pickle fork on them and used a sledge hammer and disconnected them. I replaced the balljoints by using a angle grinder and drilling out the dead bolts. I replaced them with Spicer balljoints made by DANA that are who makes the ford OEM joints for this car.

I repalced the coolant with ZEREX and distilled.

Used the turkey baster method and replaced the PS fluid with Val. Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF.

I had to replace the shifter cable that broke upon removal (bad design, very bad design.)

I replaced the fuel filter with a NAPA gold one, and the Cab air filter with a STP one. And I dumped a bottle of techron in it with a full tank.

Car has been running great for a few hundred miles now.

But it does have a couple of problems. The steering wheel is off center and it pulls to the left. The radio turns off and on by its self and does not work well with cds at all. Other than that it is good.

What suspension parts could cause the steering wheel to be misaligned so I can replace it before I get an alignment.

Thanks.
 
as long as all the tie rod ends are tight, (not familiar with the fords, there may be outer and inner on each side) then you should be good to go for an alignment. congrats on muscling thru the ball joints. no fun.
 
When you blew it apart did you take the struts off the knuckle? If you get the camber off that will do what you're doing.

A laser level will tell you if your tires are leaning in. The tops should be a little closer together than the bottoms (negative camber). 1/4" or so should do it. While you're at it, hold the level at 4 and 8 oclock on the tire and aim at the rear wheel with the laser. Should just barely miss the tire, about 1/2" to an inch translates to about half a degree of toe in. Messing up your camber also screws up your toe, get the camber right first.

Also if the ball joints bolt into the lower control arms there may be an eccentric, this will mess up your camber and caster depending.
 
I've driven more than one car, and have had a Ford and a Chevy, pardon, Chevrolet that always acted like their steering wheel was never installed "straight".
Checked the tires to look for wear, checked the suspension components, never could understand why a little bit that way or this way was "straight".
 
When I removed the balljoints I unbolted (not completely just 5-6 turns) the strut bearing plate up top in the engine cabin to allow the strut to lower a bit. I did this on both sides. Unfortunentally I must replace the passenger side one because one of the studs was seized and broke when I attempted to losen it.

I will take the tires off tommorow and check the tie rods, it has a outer and inner rod. I will check it for play, replace as necessary, and get an alignment. Thanks guys.


EDIT: JUST REALIZED THIS IS IN WRONG FORUM, MODS CAN YOU PLEASE MOVE IT? TY.
 
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I'd also have the alignment checked after you do any other suspension work.

In my experiences, it was usually toe being out that caused the steering wheel to be off center. Well, the toe may have been okay, but the tech can center the wheel first then set toe to specs. It's annoying as all get out with the steering wheel off center.

The other possibility mentioned was the cam that sets camber. Getting the alignment will handle that possibility too.

Total long shot thought that may not apply to your vehicle: some years ago I worked on an ex's Escort (with about 80k) where the steering rack was mounted to the firewall. The car would literally drift from lane to another on its own. Very scary. Turns out the rack mounting bushings had deteriorated allowing the rack itself to move left or right within the worn bushings. Replacement was no biggie; I even tightened the clamps initially as a bandaid fix until getting the parts. Again, the Focus may not use that kind of technology but since you're crawling aroung under there anyway....


Sounds like you got a good deal, even with the surgeries involved
wink.gif
 
Got the alignment today, the guy said that the crossmember was causing it, he moved the member around and the car is running great now, steering is straight no problems.
 
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