Originally Posted By: unDummy
Don't waste your money on slotted or drilled rotors. Stock sized rotors should be solid blanks.
You can mildly adjust brake bias with pad selection. Since most vehicles are overly biased toward the rear triggering ABS or rear lock up, use the Mintex red box or store brand generics, as your rear pads.
Agreed on both points above, except that I would say stick with solid blank rotors even if you upgrade to a high performance braking system! Slots and holes/dimples/etc., just give stress risers a breeding ground to do their thing, especially under high heat, repeated braking.
Yes, I know that many road racing machines use these type rotors, but they change them multiple times during an endurance race, AND they use MUCH better materials/metallurgy/cutting techniques than are available to the general public.
If I ever did upgrade to a larger, racing type braking system (AP, Brembo, Wilwood, etc.), I would demand that they supply me with SOLID rotor rings to bolt onto the alloy hats.
I also used the above brake biasing method in the past by using Hawk HP+es on the front, and either HPSes, or PBRs on the rear brakes.
(Note; the HP+es will make more noise, and dust more than the HPSes will, as well as needing at least some semblance of heat in them in order to stop properly, but still nowhere near as much as Hawk's unstreetable pure racing pads.)
Don't waste your money on slotted or drilled rotors. Stock sized rotors should be solid blanks.
You can mildly adjust brake bias with pad selection. Since most vehicles are overly biased toward the rear triggering ABS or rear lock up, use the Mintex red box or store brand generics, as your rear pads.
Agreed on both points above, except that I would say stick with solid blank rotors even if you upgrade to a high performance braking system! Slots and holes/dimples/etc., just give stress risers a breeding ground to do their thing, especially under high heat, repeated braking.
Yes, I know that many road racing machines use these type rotors, but they change them multiple times during an endurance race, AND they use MUCH better materials/metallurgy/cutting techniques than are available to the general public.
If I ever did upgrade to a larger, racing type braking system (AP, Brembo, Wilwood, etc.), I would demand that they supply me with SOLID rotor rings to bolt onto the alloy hats.
I also used the above brake biasing method in the past by using Hawk HP+es on the front, and either HPSes, or PBRs on the rear brakes.
(Note; the HP+es will make more noise, and dust more than the HPSes will, as well as needing at least some semblance of heat in them in order to stop properly, but still nowhere near as much as Hawk's unstreetable pure racing pads.)
