does it really matter which oil filter brand you use?

[Gary Allan]

quote:

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If he has 2935 ppm of iron in his oil he has more problems then what oil filter to buy. How can any self respecting BITOG member even consider anything coming from that UOA?
-T

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Like I said ...the samples were "digested" with acid. Every 30 micron chunck, which would normally be filtered off BEFORE the AA or other testing, was reduced into MANY particles.

You do a test for "free copper" ..you filter it so that only the particles of "free copper" are read. If you want to read "total copper" ..you digest it with acid so that any chunks of copper are put into full particle suspension.

Blackstone will never see a penny thrown into the UOA sample ..except the stuff that falls off the surface at the particle level. This guy's testing labs (not labs that normally did automotive UOAs) would have that entire penny suspended into the sample if they digested it long enough.

 

[Thomas Pyrek]

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Originally posted by seotaji:

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For my Nissan, I will only use Supertech/Valuecraft (The cheapie autozone filter). They are both the cheapie Champion filter with decent media and the "crappy" bypass. My nissan's engine has a internal bypass that it uses, so I don't need to worry about that. I believe the nissan filters don't even use a bypass in them. I oversize to the ST8a size instead of the st3682

For my Honda, I use Purolator/Proline. I have a car that specs for the larger filter, so I really can't oversize (but I go out of my way to look for the largest size, which is the 24458 (I think if my memory is correct))

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Thomas, if I may inquire, why choose the supertech for the nissan and a purolator for the honda?

Do you believe that the purolator is better in some way? OR are you a sucker for the grip paint

.

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I say it in there. The purolators have the largest filters with 33% more filter than the supertech. IMO, more filtration area = better. The super tech isn't the stock sized filter. The purolator is. For my Z, the difference is almost insignificant, so I use the cheapest most flowing I can get.

My oil filter observations.


My purolators don't have crinkle paint on it. I put that on myself if I feel like not using a filter wrench.

 

[Thomas Pyrek]

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Originally posted by JohnnyO:

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Originally posted by airbus:
I have a few questions to ask: does anybody have any proof (uoa reports ) that certain oil filters control wear/insoluables better than others.

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Here are a pair of UOA's I did comparing a Mobil 1 filter with a K&N. Both were very good.

Click Here

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Also note that these two filters, even though they are made by the same company, take very different approaches to how a filter should work. Both seem to do their job well (however, I think an oil filter is the least important part of the oil analysis).

I'm sure I'll never see any oil problems with my $2 supertech and 2.50 purolator.

 

[T-Keith]

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Originally posted by Pablo:
I can't argue for one brand or another or argue against for/against using a filter at all, but I can say that if your full flow filter flows more than enough and catches the big chunks, plus won't disenigrate, has well functioning ADBV and Bypass'....if your filter does those 4 things, then it makes little difference.

PS I read the Jeep thread....not used to seeing PPM that high!!!

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If he has 2935 ppm of iron in his oil he has more problems then what oil filter to buy.

How can any self respecting BITOG member even consider anything coming from that UOA?
-T

 

[TallPaul]

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Originally posted by Ugly3:
Pretty good? You are a master of understatement!

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Yeah, I guess "excellent" would be a better term. Anyway I may just make this Fleetguard my regular filter.

 

[Ugly3]

Just look at the UOA results Tall Paul got using what looks like a poor filter quality unit (posted above).

 

[Thomas Pyrek]

FWIW, Bob ran an OCI without any filter and had it analyzed. If he just posted it without telling us, we would have thought that it was just a normal oil analysis and that he didn't do anything "special" for it.

 

[Ugly3]

Let's see, poor filters do well, good filters do well, and no filters do well. Umm? What is the title of this thread?

 

[T-Keith]

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Originally posted by Ugly3:
Let's see, poor filters do well, good filters do well, and no filters do well. Umm? What is the title of this thread?

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In a couple cases maybe. That doesn't mean that it can apply to every car and every person.

-T

 

[JohnnyO]

IMO, how often you change is way more important than what you use. You could run Valvoline with Frams, change it every 3000, and it will run forever (provided the Fram doesn't come apart inside

). Guy in my Ranger club has an old 2.9L Ranger with 300,000 miles doing exactly that and it's never been apart. It looks every bit of the 300k though.

 

[Ugly3]

Relax guys! I think Pablo has it about right. Use a filter spec'd for your engine (flow rate, bypass, etc) and if the filter does not fail you are all set.

Personally, I use a Pureolator Pure One spec'd for my engine. It may go into bypass a little more than some other filter might (I don't know) but the other 99.9% of the time it is filtering like a champ.

 

[427Z06]

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Originally posted by Ugly3:
Just look at the UOA results Tall Paul got using what looks like a poor filter quality unit (posted above).

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Notice he's using an oversized filter not speced for his application.

 

[TallPaul]

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Originally posted by 427Z06:

quote:

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Originally posted by Ugly3:
Just look at the UOA results Tall Paul got using what looks like a poor filter quality unit (posted above).

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Notice he's using an oversized filter not speced for his application.

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Heh, heh, heh, I think I know better than FoMoCo!

 

[427Z06]

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Originally posted by TallPaul:

quote:

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Originally posted by 427Z06:

quote:

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Originally posted by Ugly3:
Just look at the UOA results Tall Paul got using what looks like a poor filter quality unit (posted above).

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Notice he's using an oversized filter not speced for his application.

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Heh, heh, heh, I think I know better than FoMoCo!

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