Do I really need to register my battery?

And yet, Items like alternators last longer than ever before...
Imagine thinking the days of carburetors and vacuum lines running everything was better and engines barely lasted 100k miles... At least today when something is wrong the car will usually TELL YOU what is wrong, or the direction to aim in. In the old days, car running rough or stalling? Good luck finding that vacuum leak in the 5 miles of vacuum line.
 
I'm really curious now, with these fancy ECU controlled charging systems, do you really get more lifespan out of the battery? Or is it more a fuel efficiency thing by keeping the minimum loading on the alternator, of which in this sort of application saves an almost immeasurable amount of fuel.
 
It does need to know there is a new battery in the vehicle. As others have said vag com or my personal cheap favorite obdeleven will allow you to do it at home. If the new battery doesn't have a serial number on it of the format of the original battery just use the old battery serial number and change one of the last few digits as long as the build type, capacity and cca are the same

 
OK. This brings up some questions for me. My 2018 MB E300 is showing signs of a weak battery. Does MB require the battery be registered on this car?
And what if I change to a battery with different ratings? For example, the original battery is rated at 800 CCA, but while shopping, I see units with 850 cca, 900 cca, and possibly higher from say Autozone.
And speaking of Autozone, which offer free battery installation, can they do the required registration to the vehicle?
I think you can tell that I'm trying to avoid the dealership for this "simple" service.
Thanks for any advice.
 
OK. This brings up some questions for me. My 2018 MB E300 is showing signs of a weak battery. Does MB require the battery be registered on this car?
And what if I change to a battery with different ratings? For example, the original battery is rated at 800 CCA, but while shopping, I see units with 850 cca, 900 cca, and possibly higher from say Autozone.
And speaking of Autozone, which offer free battery installation, can they do the required registration to the vehicle?
I think you can tell that I'm trying to avoid the dealership for this "simple" service.
Thanks for any advice.
I can't answer if your MB needs it, but I highly doubt that Autozone or any of the other shops will do that for you if it does
 
Yes, register it. If you can afford an Audi then you can afford a scan tool or shop visit to do it.

On BMW, the size (Ah), type (AGM vs flooded) get coded in, then replacement of the battery gets logged so that it accounts for ageing.
 
Yes, register it. If you can afford an Audi then you can afford a scan tool or shop visit to do it.

On BMW, the size (Ah), type (AGM vs flooded) get coded in, then replacement of the battery gets logged so that it accounts for ageing.
I don't think affordability is the question, it's just that searching for one with the proper capabilities is difficult. At least when I've been shopping for one. For example, will it read MB codes? Will it report in understandable terms? Will it allow the bi-directional communication that you need to do this?
 
Imagine thinking the days of carburetors and vacuum lines running everything was better and engines barely lasted 100k miles... At least today when something is wrong the car will usually TELL YOU what is wrong, or the direction to aim in. In the old days, car running rough or stalling? Good luck finding that vacuum leak in the 5 miles of vacuum line.
Generalizing? I have had many carbed engines last well over 150,000 miles. Most engines are not properly maintained.
 
Generalizing? I have had many carbed engines last well over 150,000 miles. Most engines are not properly maintained.
Survivorship bias is a thing, vacuum lines are and always have been a nightmare, and most carb'd cars people would have would likely have tons and tons of them.
 
I don't think affordability is the question, it's just that searching for one with the proper capabilities is difficult. At least when I've been shopping for one. For example, will it read MB codes? Will it report in understandable terms? Will it allow the bi-directional communication that you need to do this?
I was able to get my bmw coded by an independent when I changed from a smaller flooded battery to a group 49 AGM.

I now have a cheap Amazon scanner that codes battery replacements. There are different ones programmed for certain manufacturers. There are also laptop based forward suites that can be procured.
 
I have a Foxwell NT-530 for BMW/MINI that I do batteries with. Works great. I see they make VW versions too. It’s also a generic OBDII scanner / live data and gets specific BMW/MINI codes, so it’s still a very functional tool for all cars - not just VW battery work. I even sold my old, basic OBDII scanner once I got the NT-530.

Also consider that you’ll be able to resell it on eBay for nearly what you paid for it.
 
I was able to get my bmw coded by an independent when I changed from a smaller flooded battery to a group 49 AGM.

I now have a cheap Amazon scanner that codes battery replacements. There are different ones programmed for certain manufacturers. There are also laptop based forward suites that can be procured.
Can you give me a few specifics?
 
but seriously, I'm guessing the BMS has some way to measure battery resistance, and uses it to tell you when to replace the battery. but that measurement is only meaningful when compared to some starting value... so you tell the computer when the battery is new, it measures internal resistance at that time and then compares all subsequent measurements to it. when it rises to some higher level (+40%?? or something like that) it sends a warning light to replace the battery.

I'm just guessing here I don't own one of these cars.... but i'm 99% sure it has nothing to do with "optimum charge current" that is somehow adjusted for the age of the battery. old batteries will take as much current as they will take, just like new batteries.
 
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