Battery replacement?

[andyd]

When the Camrys needed new batteries, I used my1/2 amp HF wall wart to maintain system. I don't recall if I rigged it to the power port,(best) or just clipped to a ground and a hot lead under the hood. Whatever, it maintained 12V and the radio didn't lose the presets or the clock.
PS Please post resolution, TIA

 

[The Critic]

Since you just bought it, can you be a "Karen" and take it back?

 

[SatinSilver]

Mom's '21 Corolla had similar problem. This happened when it was only a year old. But it doesn't get driven much, probably had 3k miles at the 1 year mark. Battery was so drained that it didn't make any noise when trying to start. The 3 amp battery maintainer wouldn't charge it, gave an error code after a few seconds. Remembered the 2 year road service and received a jump. The jump cables I had wouldn't reach far enough since car is garaged. Still have the battery and put it on the maintainer periodically.

 

[supton]

Since you just bought it, can you be a "Karen" and take it back?

I could try but I'm not sure how far I'd get. I looked over the paperwork I took home from the dealer and don't see any warranty paperwork. Maybe they "forgot", or maybe in the end, I got what I wanted: an OTD price with nothing attached. I kinda don't want to give them the time of day, the internet price and the price on the car was different by over $4k (did not realize until long after the deal was done). I get it, no one in the car business is up for sainthood any time soon, but I'd rather buy a new battery than go back.

I'm not one to complain (other than over the internet ) and I'd rather just move on.

 

[UG_Passat]

If you have auto start stop, you need at minimum an EFB battery which the stock battery is likely is

 

[SC Maintenance]

Pay the $20 for 48 hour TIS access and check out the battery replacement procedure.

Then post it here so I don’t have to pay $20. Ha.

 

[supton]

If you have auto start stop, you need at minimum an EFB battery which the stock battery is likely is

No start/stop. Got the evil CVT but that's about it, AFAIK it's even PFI.

Pay the $20 for 48 hour TIS access and check out the battery replacement procedure.

Then post it here so I don’t have to pay $20. Ha.

Ha! I wouldn't mind doing that actually. I used to have one of the evilbay techstream knockoffs but I think the only Win7 laptop I have is now razor blades. If I could get Techstream onto a laptop I would try, but I don't know if it would work with whatever dongle I bought years ago? I honestly don't think I have any way to talk to these newer cars--and I really should go get set up. Just in case... like this case. It'd be wonderful if I could verify for myself that I have the wrong/bad DCM flash.

 

[supton]

As an addendum, maybe I found the issue?

I usually do not drive with the radio on. But this car came with free trial of XM radio. I used to have that, years ago. Figured, what the heck, might as well listen to "free" music. So this past week I've been listening more and more--and when I went to run out for toilet bowl parts, found that I left XM on. As in, key in, start, and the radio starts playing music. I've been turning the radio off the other weeks, as I usually enjoy the (relative) silence of driving.

Maybe that's the DCM programming problem: it's not actually turning off all items that ought to be off.

 

[oilstudent24]

2021 Corolla, went to start today, dash came on, but click click click. Nothing left on or plugged in that I know of. Drove fine all week, and I drive for an hour at a time, no short drives here. Did not use yesterday, so it's sat for a day.

Took a different car, did what I needed to do, came back to debug. Looked in the manual and it says what I interpret to be, don't touch your battery, let a dealer do that? Umm... that's a bit unfair.

View attachment 177773

By the time I got around to debug, the battery was registering 5.2V and nothing was working. I have a 2A charger on it, which is going to take all day--assuming the battery just isn't bad. Maybe for every battery that lasts 10 years there is one that lasts 2? I'm wondering if I shouldn't just run out and replace it, but... I need to pull the battery and the above statement makes me wonder what can of worms I'll open up.

Off topic, but some Toyotas may have a battery code to put in to prevent theft if you replace the battery

 

[supton]

Off topic, but some Toyotas may have a battery code to put in to prevent theft if you replace the battery

Hope not, although I guess if I use something to keep the 12V powered up, I should be ok.

 

[The Critic]

No start/stop. Got the evil CVT but that's about it, AFAIK it's even PFI.


Ha! I wouldn't mind doing that actually. I used to have one of the evilbay techstream knockoffs but I think the only Win7 laptop I have is now razor blades. If I could get Techstream onto a laptop I would try, but I don't know if it would work with whatever dongle I bought years ago? I honestly don't think I have any way to talk to these newer cars--and I really should go get set up. Just in case... like this case. It'd be wonderful if I could verify for myself that I have the wrong/bad DCM flash.

If you want to flash it yourself, we can work out a “loaner” J2534 device. But you’d have to pay for the subscription and have access to a stable power supply.

 

[supton]

If you want to flash it yourself, we can work out a “loaner” J2534 device. But you’d have to pay for the subscription and have access to a stable power supply.

Nah, it's worth an hour of time for someone else to "do it right". Thanks for the offer though.

 

[oilstudent24]

Hope not, although I guess if I use something to keep the 12V powered up, I should be ok.

Sorry, I meant to say radio code to prevent radio theft that has to be reentered when power is restored to radio.

 

[supton]

Sorry, I meant to say radio code to prevent radio theft that has to be reentered when power is restored to radio.

Ah. Do people still steal radios? I mean, it's nothing but an LCD now, the "radio" is buried back there, somewhere. And the LCD is probably very vehicle specific too, not sure there would be a market. Still, I hear what you are saying. Easy enough for me to rig up something to keep the system alive, swapping batteries.

 

[SC Maintenance]

No start/stop. Got the evil CVT but that's about it, AFAIK it's even PFI.


Ha! I wouldn't mind doing that actually. I used to have one of the evilbay techstream knockoffs but I think the only Win7 laptop I have is now razor blades. If I could get Techstream onto a laptop I would try, but I don't know if it would work with whatever dongle I bought years ago? I honestly don't think I have any way to talk to these newer cars--and I really should go get set up. Just in case... like this case. It'd be wonderful if I could verify for myself that I have the wrong/bad DCM flash.

Was thinking more just the technical information service - aka the factory service manual - just to see what it says. Not techstream. You can pay $20 to Toyota tech info and get access to the full factory service manual for 48 hours and print to pdf any parts you like.

https://techinfo.toyota.com

 

[John105]

they make small adapters that take a 9 volt battery to connect to the charging port for keeping memory stuff alive, but realistically the ECM's store Info no matter what, its just the dumb stuff like memory seats and radio presets that might go away with a battery disconnect. ... but yeah, batteries can fail early... in my case I consider car batteries to have a 3 year lifespan, if they last longer than that fine but if I get 3 years out of them, I'm good with it... FWIW your battery is probably 4 years old now. 21 22 23 and the 24 model years are out so call it 4 years.

I found this didn't work on 2/3 of our cars (3rd car is a BMW and I haven't DIY'd yet, and may not). One car has a lighter that is only on with ACC, the other is always on. Both cars lost settings.

Interestingly, even with battery completely removed, wife's car has seat mirror settings, loses radio. My Toyota, same thing, keeps many settings, including radio presets.

The main thing that will be lost will be emissions aka I/M will not be ready. But my Toyota was ready in 80 miles or so. GM, 800-1300, which is upsetting (EVAP doesn't want to be in a ready state).

 

[atikovi]

Just get an OBD2 memory saver.

 

[supton]

Was thinking more just the technical information service - aka the factory service manual - just to see what it says. Not techstream. You can pay $20 to Toyota tech info and get access to the full factory service manual for 48 hours and print to pdf any parts you like.

https://techinfo.toyota.com

Did not know. I still think I need an ODBII dongle at some point, I have a couple but haven't touched in 10 years and they were cheapo Ebay items.

I found this didn't work on 2/3 of our cars (3rd car is a BMW and I haven't DIY'd yet, and may not). One car has a lighter that is only on with ACC, the other is always on. Both cars lost settings.

Did it use a 9V battery? I question a 9V battery being able to deliver. 10's of mA, ok, but it's still less than 9V to those systems--and they may pull more current as voltage sags for all I know.

I have enough 12V SLA's and diodes that I'd go that route myself. I mean, I have the parts at home, just have to put them together.

 

[John105]

Did it use a 9V battery? I question a 9V battery being able to deliver. 10's of mA, ok, but it's still less than 9V to those systems--and they may pull more current as voltage sags for all I know.

Yes, I think it is even made by NOCO, a brand I trust. This led me to question how the circuit works in the car.

Because I bought it for my mom's 2006 Acura TSX--when it didn't work, BIG TROUBLE. Her stereo needed a Honda code, which was conveniently missing in the owner's manual "booklet." I somehow mananged to do something online that generated the code...

For my Lexus, I ran jumpers to the battery cables (I have 4 used batteries pulled from cars that I keep charged), and one clamp slipped off (a little risky). I was not worried about emissions, I was worried that my free XM may be lost if the car lost power, but not true (it's been 37 mos. now since the subscription expired).

 

[f355spider]

If you need a battery, I would still call the dealer. The warranty is with the car, not with the original purchaser. I've bought used cars and brought them while still under warranty for repairs. And surprisingly from threads on this forum, dealers do replace batteries often times while under warranty so costs you nothing to ask.