Craftsman tractor, electrical problem

[Ausfahrt]

My 2002 Craftsman tractor is blowing it's main(?) fuse with increasing regularity. It first happened late last year and I have replaced 4 or 5 fuses since then. Something is not right. It happens at either start up or shut down because it hasn't quit on me yet while running.

At first I thought that the heat from the engine could be causing the problem but since I have been using the tractor for over a decade under the same conditions, I doubt that this is the cause.

Any thoughts? Here are a few pics....

 

[tig1]

Possibly a short in the ignition switch area??

 

[GreeCguy]

Have you traced the wires for a short? If it does happen to be heat related, have you removed the cowl and cleaned the cooling fins of grass and debris? Are all your connections tight?

 

[GreeCguy]

(BTW - I like you're oil drain set up).

 

[MrMeeks]

try removing the fuses to each subsystem to isolate this fault.
do this one fuse at a time until the main fuse stops blowing.

 

[JTK]

I've seen chaffed wires on mowers only come to rest against something metal when making turns. Broken insulation around the PTO clutch harness are common too.

Start up and s/d induces vibrations the unit might not see during normal usage.

My point is, unfortunately you've got to go over every inch of wiring to locate broken insulation.

I add wire loom or cut vinyl tubing and tip ties over areas that have a potential of being abraded.

 

[NHGUY]

Charging system issue?

 

[Hirev]

Had a problem with a craftsman 2 year old tractor just like the problem you are describing about 15 years ago. I narrowed it down to a short in the ignition switch. I got a new one it also was bad right out of the box (imagine that). Threw me for a loop. I adapted an old car ignition switch on to it. Problem went away for good.

 

[Ausfahrt]

Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
(BTW - I like you're oil drain set up).


Thanks!


Thanks for the tips, guys. I will go over the wiring harness as best I can.

 

[wally6934]

I will state the obvious here just in case you did not know. Sears/Craftsman has the manuals on line with electrical schematic. If you post the manual here maybe some of us can help.

Sears like to change the web site name daily to find the manual. Try this URL

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=105089530&sid=PSx20071217x00001a&OVMTC=Broad&site=&creative=9273191064&OVKEY=%2Bcraftsman%20manuals&url_id=105089530&adpos=1t2&device=c&devicemodel=&gclid=CIDPnsGAr7gCFe4-MgodPm4AeA

I tried DLT3000 looks like you also need the model number like 917.xxxxx

 

[Ausfahrt]

Originally Posted By: wally6934
I will state the obvious here just in case you did not know. Sears/Craftsman has the manuals on line with electrical schematic. If you post the manual here maybe some of us can help.

Sears like to change the web site name daily to find the manual. Try this URL

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=105089530&sid=PSx20071217x00001a&OVMTC=Broad&site=&creative=9273191064&OVKEY=%2Bcraftsman%20manuals&url_id=105089530&adpos=1t2&device=c&devicemodel=&gclid=CIDPnsGAr7gCFe4-MgodPm4AeA

I tried DLT3000 looks like you also need the model number like 917.xxxxx





Thanks Wally, the Model number is 917.273450.

Your link didn't work for me but I will investigate further. I welcome all thoughts and input.

 

[tnt31]

Manual

 

[wally6934]

Well if the 30A fuse is blowing the trouble has to be after the fuse, starting from the fuse to the amp meter and going to the ignition switch. Unfortunately there is no easy way to disconnect circuits from the ignition switch to eliminate them. I would not rule out the ignition switch itself either.

The electrical schematic on page 31 has the ignition switch contact arrangement for the different switch positions. With this information you could unplug the ignition switch connector and if it has standard terminals on it you could rig up your own ignition switch with toggle switches and a push button. But unless you really understand the electronics i would not try this.

Take pictures of how the wiring harness is set up and then open it up. Take all the wires out and inspect each wire from one end to the other. You are looking for worn or melted insulation, or 2 wires melted together.

If you do not find any problems with the wires then it has to be a component. Like the ignition switch, regulator, fuel shut off solenoid or ignition module.

If you get to the point were you are sure the wires are OK, you could try one trick. Look were the wire from the ignition switch connects to the components. If it uses standard connections you can buy, then make a short jumper with a fuse in it to connect to each component. Much lower in amperage if possible so it blows before the 30 amp fuse.

The ignition switch is fed with the 30A fuse and will have to stay that way.

The regulator says 16A, so you might get buy with a 20A fuse to it.

The fuel shut off solenoid should take very little current but will have a high inductive spike, give it a 5A fuse.

The ignition module will not take much current either, but just to cut down on fuse sizes, use a 5A for this also.

Those are various ideas for you to mix and match to suit your comfort level. Let us know how things proceed.

 

[Ausfahrt]

The problem worsens.

My neighbor has tractor problems of her own. (She is a single mom and my wife's best friend...kind of like a second wife without benefits

) So she borrowed our tractor and mowed her yard without any problems.

I started to mow my yard and I blew the fuse within 5 minutes! I had already looked over all of the wiring on the tractor as best I could and I did not notice anything amiss but there has to be a short somewhere.

I have read that the ignition switch is a common problem area and since my tractor is over ten years old and has been left out in the rain numerous times, I am thinking about ordering this:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Ignition-Switch/175566/1659878?modelNumber=917.273450

 

[wally6934]

The ignition switch did go out on my sears lawn tractor but mine failed open.

The ignition switch is probably the hardest component to verify. So for $13 it might be worth the piece of mind. But keep the old one in case you make a mistake fooling with the wiring and burn up the new ignition switch.

 

[Ausfahrt]

Well I finally had some time off from work to have a good look at the wiring on the tractor. I took out the battery, jacked up the front end and found.....nothing. I looked really hard at the areas where wires passed through sheet metal but I didn't find a smoking gun.

So after I put everything back together with a fresh fuse(I bought a bulk pack so I have plenty of spares now

) it seems to be fine. I have mowed twice with no blown fuses.

I suspect that my wire inspection jostled the offending wire enough that it doesn't ground out anymore. This problem isn't fixed and I will almost certainly need to revisit this when mowing season ends but for now all is well.

 

[SHOZ]

On my John Deere I burnt up the main fuse holder, twice. Finally traced it to a too large of gap on my blade clutch.

 

[bubbatime]

Happens at start up or shut down = ignition switch