I had a similar problem with a old Tecumseh powered snow thrower, the problem turned out to be the gas cap was not venting and then starving the motor of fuel. To solve I started to put the gas cap on loosely and never had a issue with it again.
Craftsman Push Mower Starts and Stalls
- Thread starter 99Saturn
- Start date
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- Jun 26, 2023
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- 350
Agree with the jet(s) being at least partially clogged. Bought these this year just for the mower (is the only carbed equipment I have now, everything else is lith ion). Even though I drain gas every year, I always clean the carb out every year. Takes 10 minutes, ensures 0 frustration with mower. I don't need any incentive to not do yard work. Lol
Carburetor Carbon Dirt Jet Remove... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TW6L7J8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Carburetor Carbon Dirt Jet Remove... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TW6L7J8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
My Briggs is just like that one. At the beginning of the season I run some Techron thru the thing in the first running of the season. Never had a problem with that.
Might work for this application, but I have found that too big for dirt bike jets and smaller engines. You also have to be careful that you don't bore out the hole too much with the harder steel.
I don't think his problem is the carb anyway in this case.
IDK, I have poked this wire through literally thousands of small engine carburetor jets. I used to buy twist tie by the roll and used it almost hourly. I know it works and I'm just trying to help everyone out with my knowledge and experience. And yes, without putting my hands on it myself, IMO he has a restriction in the carburetor main jet.
Update and looking for some guidance. Wire that runs from the handle of the mower to this piece. Depressing the handle when pull starting the mower pulls the wire #1 and moved the plate #2.
Wondering/thinking that what I have circled below is like a kill switch. You can see how the clip connects with the part I have labeled #2 in the previous picture. Basically if I manually wedge that open so there is no connection, mower starts right up. Similar results if I add a link to the spring where i have the arrow, not forcing the part labeled in the first picture as #2 to return and connect with what I have circled below.
So, what's bad or am wedging something that is masking the issue not fixing it?
Wondering/thinking that what I have circled below is like a kill switch. You can see how the clip connects with the part I have labeled #2 in the previous picture. Basically if I manually wedge that open so there is no connection, mower starts right up. Similar results if I add a link to the spring where i have the arrow, not forcing the part labeled in the first picture as #2 to return and connect with what I have circled below.
So, what's bad or am wedging something that is masking the issue not fixing it?
While you are holding down the deadman lever on the handle, the cable should be taut and pulling part 2 well away from being underneath and grounding the contact point that kills the ignition. Note that part 2 also has a brake pad to more quickly stop the engine and blade from turning when the deadman lever is released. While the lever is being held down to start and run the mower, the brake pad would not be touching the flywheel.
The cable can stretch out over time so that no longer works though.
The cable can stretch out over time so that no longer works though.
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Helpful thanks. The cable is taunt when the lever is depressed but I suppose taunt can be subjective. Guess I should search for the part number for the handle as I assume I could have slack in the line from that as a starting point.
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Friction develops in the pivot points of deadman levers attached to the engine. This stretches the cable and warps the operator handle as people give unaccustomed amounts of force to make them work. Go feel a new machine at Home Depot to see how badly yours has deteriorated.
Did you find the problem ?
I just started having problems with my mower . Starts right up and runs for a minute or two and dies . I bought some Seafoam and ran it for 10 minutes and now in runs fine so dirt some how got into the fuel system and it wouldn't run wright and I had already used the mower several times this year .
Fairly confident it is stretch in the cable causing the kill switch to not disconnect as @mk378 suggested for mine. Re-assembled everything as is and put an extra link on the spring that controls the kill switch, continues to start and run for a few minutes, haven't tested it longer than that. I'll likely mow today or tomorrow and see how it goes, but pretty confident. I want to find the correct replacement handle given I think I might not be getting the cable as taunt as I think, but being a cheapskate and given the mower was free, I have to track down one that is pretty cheap and haven't found one yet.
If yours is the same model as mine, as many have suggested, I've had to clean carbs out over the years on these, and also had the gasket between the air filter housing and carb tear (ending up just getting a 20pk off ebay or amazon and have one at the ready), as well as stretched out the gasket on the bowl thinking I was being smart and taking it off. This is the third variation of this mower I've had and my parents have/had one as well, after this thread I am wondering if more than my current has been condemned to not starting because of this same issue, as much of the other advice online is always clean the carb, change the plug, replace the air filter.
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