It's got a Briggs 7.25 or 7.75 hp engine with easy start. It's been at least four months since I've fired it up. It's 2.50 years old and every winter I run it dry. My last fill up I used FP60 plus. Today I was going to wash my truck and after a few pulls it started, ran for about a minute then died. I tried pulling at least 20 times and no go. I have the switch to the on position so I don't know. I'm assuming the on switch is an auto choke.
Craftsman power washer issue
- Thread starter ARB1977
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This is why I will only buy or recommend electric ones.
After you solve your issue instead of running it dry, try some Tru-fuel, SEF94 etc. or similar fuel in the tank for storage. I have better results with this method, assuming you've got some fuel related issue.
FWIW I never run any of my OPE's dry and I've got many 2T and 4T's.
FWIW I never run any of my OPE's dry and I've got many 2T and 4T's.
Originally Posted By: Keith_Stone
After you solve your issue instead of running it dry, try some Tru-fuel, SEF94 etc. or similar fuel in the tank for storage. I have better results with this method, assuming you've got some fuel related issue.
FWIW I never run any of my OPE's dry and I've got many 2T and 4T's.
My Honda mower and Troy Bilt 4 stroke weed eater have been ran dry for winter storage for the last 6 years. Both start up after a few primes the following spring.
After you solve your issue instead of running it dry, try some Tru-fuel, SEF94 etc. or similar fuel in the tank for storage. I have better results with this method, assuming you've got some fuel related issue.
FWIW I never run any of my OPE's dry and I've got many 2T and 4T's.
My Honda mower and Troy Bilt 4 stroke weed eater have been ran dry for winter storage for the last 6 years. Both start up after a few primes the following spring.
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Originally Posted By: Keith_Stone
After you solve your issue instead of running it dry, try some Tru-fuel, SEF94 etc. or similar fuel in the tank for storage. I have better results with this method, assuming you've got some fuel related issue.
FWIW I never run any of my OPE's dry and I've got many 2T and 4T's.
My Honda mower and Troy Bilt 4 stroke weed eater have been ran dry for winter storage for the last 6 years. Both start up after a few primes the following spring.
And that works fine for many. I just prefer a wet carb, especially 2T's.
Originally Posted By: Keith_Stone
After you solve your issue instead of running it dry, try some Tru-fuel, SEF94 etc. or similar fuel in the tank for storage. I have better results with this method, assuming you've got some fuel related issue.
FWIW I never run any of my OPE's dry and I've got many 2T and 4T's.
My Honda mower and Troy Bilt 4 stroke weed eater have been ran dry for winter storage for the last 6 years. Both start up after a few primes the following spring.
And that works fine for many. I just prefer a wet carb, especially 2T's.
Sounds like an issue with the choke. You need to look down the air intake to see what is going on with the choke.
I run blue Stabil in all my OPE gas year round and in many cases run the unit dry. Even dry, there is still some fuel in the carb bowl.
How do you run a pressure washer dry? Are you holding the trigger ON until it runs dry or disconnect the trigger wand? If you are just letting it sit there running with no water going out until it runs dry you will damage the pump.
I run blue Stabil in all my OPE gas year round and in many cases run the unit dry. Even dry, there is still some fuel in the carb bowl.
How do you run a pressure washer dry? Are you holding the trigger ON until it runs dry or disconnect the trigger wand? If you are just letting it sit there running with no water going out until it runs dry you will damage the pump.
I had this with ours. Still no idea what caused it. I had to remove the air filter and spray starter fluid for it to run. And copious amounts were required go keep it running. Eventually it would run on its own, but it took a while.
Is there a choke level? Primer bulb?
Originally Posted By: Donald
Sounds like an issue with the choke. You need to look down the air intake to see what is going on with the choke.
I run blue Stabil in all my OPE gas year round and in many cases run the unit dry. Even dry, there is still some fuel in the carb bowl.
How do you run a pressure washer dry? Are you holding the trigger ON until it runs dry or disconnect the trigger wand? If you are just letting it sit there running with no water going out until it runs dry you will damage the pump.
Dry, meaning out of gas. Water still flows threw the pump.
Sounds like an issue with the choke. You need to look down the air intake to see what is going on with the choke.
I run blue Stabil in all my OPE gas year round and in many cases run the unit dry. Even dry, there is still some fuel in the carb bowl.
How do you run a pressure washer dry? Are you holding the trigger ON until it runs dry or disconnect the trigger wand? If you are just letting it sit there running with no water going out until it runs dry you will damage the pump.
Dry, meaning out of gas. Water still flows threw the pump.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Is there a choke level? Primer bulb?
No.
Is there a choke level? Primer bulb?
No.
Originally Posted By: Nick R
I had this with ours. Still no idea what caused it. I had to remove the air filter and spray starter fluid for it to run. And copious amounts were required go keep it running. Eventually it would run on its own, but it took a while.
Where do you find starter spray?
I had this with ours. Still no idea what caused it. I had to remove the air filter and spray starter fluid for it to run. And copious amounts were required go keep it running. Eventually it would run on its own, but it took a while.
Where do you find starter spray?
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Dry, meaning out of gas. Water still flows threw the pump.
The previous poster is correct. If you leave a pressure washer running and don't press the handle on the nozzle, the water in the pump gets extremely hot. This causes the thermal relief valve to open and water will start to drizzle through that. Heat and lack of lubrication are the biggest killers of pumps, so your pump is dyeing each time you do this. The engine should be shut off within 60 seconds if you are not using it.
Dry, meaning out of gas. Water still flows threw the pump.
The previous poster is correct. If you leave a pressure washer running and don't press the handle on the nozzle, the water in the pump gets extremely hot. This causes the thermal relief valve to open and water will start to drizzle through that. Heat and lack of lubrication are the biggest killers of pumps, so your pump is dyeing each time you do this. The engine should be shut off within 60 seconds if you are not using it.
Always check for spark first. Then rule out a carburetor issue or bad fuel issue. Could be as simple as water in the fuel or a dirty carb jet.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Dry, meaning out of gas. Water still flows threw the pump.
The previous poster is correct. If you leave a pressure washer running and don't press the handle on the nozzle, the water in the pump gets extremely hot. This causes the thermal relief valve to open and water will start to drizzle through that. Heat and lack of lubrication are the biggest killers of pumps, so your pump is dyeing each time you do this. The engine should be shut off within 60 seconds if you are not using it.
To add a bit of info, the pump needs a way to control rising pressure when you release the trigger. So there is normally an unloader that is pressure activated and recycles high pressure water back to the inlet of the pump. But this water goes round and round heating up and damaging the valves inside the pump. Its fine to leave the engine running while you reposition the pump or yourself but much longer than that the pump should be shut down.
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Dry, meaning out of gas. Water still flows threw the pump.
The previous poster is correct. If you leave a pressure washer running and don't press the handle on the nozzle, the water in the pump gets extremely hot. This causes the thermal relief valve to open and water will start to drizzle through that. Heat and lack of lubrication are the biggest killers of pumps, so your pump is dyeing each time you do this. The engine should be shut off within 60 seconds if you are not using it.
To add a bit of info, the pump needs a way to control rising pressure when you release the trigger. So there is normally an unloader that is pressure activated and recycles high pressure water back to the inlet of the pump. But this water goes round and round heating up and damaging the valves inside the pump. Its fine to leave the engine running while you reposition the pump or yourself but much longer than that the pump should be shut down.
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