Coolant Flush and Change

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Mar 31, 2021
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2015 Ford Fusion, 1.5L Engine

Vehicle has 115k miles. Getting ready to do a coolant flush and change using motorcraft products. I found a coolant flush and change procedure online. Please see video link below. I have a question about getting the correct mix/ratio when I go to do the refill. The person in the video correctly points out that parts of the cooling system, specifically the cylinder block still have water in it, and to equal this out, he does a fill of about 60-70% coolant and 30-40% distilled water which would get him to a final ratio of 50/50 once everything is mixed. My question is how much water is still in the cooling system? Should I do 60/40 or 70/30 when I go to do the refill (to get the final mix of 50/50). It just seems like being off by 10% could be a lot. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

How To Perform A Coolant Flush On Your Ford Vehicle
 
Here’s how I do it, after a flush with water:

Look up cooling system capacity. Figure out the ratio you want. Multiply ratio times capacity, then, that much pure coolant to the system. Top off with water.

E.G. 8 quart system. You want a 60/40 mix. So, add 8 x .6= 4.8 quarts of pure coolant. Top off with water.

Vacuum fill is recommended.

Use a refractometer when checking mix. The floaty-ball things can be way off.
 
Here’s how I do it, after a flush with water:

Look up cooling system capacity. Figure out the ratio you want. Multiply ratio times capacity, then, that much pure coolant to the system. Top off with water.

E.G. 8 quart system. You want a 60/40 mix. So, add 8 x .6= 4.8 quarts of pure coolant. Top off with water.

Vacuum fill is recommended.

Use a refractometer when checking mix. The floaty-ball things can be way off.
I appreciate the explanation. I just want to confirm my approach for my car.

Coolant capacity is 11.1 qt's.

50/50 ratio

11.1-quart system with 50/50 mix would be 11.1 x 0.5 = 5.55 quarts of pure coolant and then topped off with distilled water.

Questions
1. It sounds like you pour the pure concentrate directly into the reseviour?
2. I pour 5.55 quarts of pure coolant directly into the reseviour and then topped off with distilled water?
3. No pre-mixing, correct?
4. Any concerns with pouring pure coolant directly into the reseviour?
 
I appreciate the explanation. I just want to confirm my approach for my car.

Coolant capacity is 11.1 qt's.

50/50 ratio

11.1-quart system with 50/50 mix would be 11.1 x 0.5 = 5.55 quarts of pure coolant and then topped off with distilled water.

Questions
1. It sounds like you pour the pure concentrate directly into the reseviour?
2. I pour 5.55 quarts of pure coolant directly into the reseviour and then topped off with distilled water?
3. No pre-mixing, correct?
4. Any concerns with pouring pure coolant directly into the reseviour?
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
 
One last question. This has to do with purging air out of the coolant system.

Once the coolant system has been flushed and re-filled, I will start the car and let it run at idle until it gets to operating temperature. During this step, I will watch the bottle (with the cap off) because it's going to purge the air out. As it gets low, I will top off with distilled water until it reaches the fill line. Does this approach sound correct?
 
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One last question. This has to do with purging air out of the coolant system.

Once the coolant system has been flushed and re-filled, I will start the car and let it run at idle until it gets to operating temperature. During this step, I will watch the bottle (with the cap off) because it's going to purge the air out. As it gets low, I will top off with distilled water until it reaches the fill line. Does this approach sound correct?
You can speed the process up a little if you slightly incline the vehicle to where the bleed valve/reservoir/what-have-you. Up on ramps, on a slight hill, whatever is more convenient.
 
One last question. This has to do with purging air out of the coolant system.

Once the coolant system has been flushed and re-filled, I will start the car and let it run at idle until it gets to operating temperature. During this step, I will watch the bottle (with the cap off) because it's going to purge the air out. As it gets low, I will top off with distilled water until it reaches the fill line. Does this approach sound correct?

You can do that, but you might want to look into a no-spill coolant funnel.

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Engines using modern coolant that have not been neglected typically don't need a flush just a drain and fill of the radiator.

If you use any kind of a chemical flush you probably want to flush twice with water from a garden hose and then once with distilled water.

You could also just flush with distilled water.

Some remove the drain plugs in the block to drain out as much water or coolant as possible but some may still be in the heater core.

Trying to guess how much water is in the system so you will know how much straight coolant to add is not particularly easy.
 
Looks like about $20 on amazon. Is the no-spill coolant funnel necessary? Can I do with simple funnel? What is the risk of doing this without the specialized funnel?

Just the risk of making more of a mess (often coolant will overflow from the radiator fill as the system heats up even if it's not yet full) and having to baby-sit the process to keep adding coolant.

With the no-spill funnel, you just attach it to the radiator or coolant tank, fill it up, start the engine and let it run till the thermostat opens and it sucks down the coolant, maybe adding more coolant to the funnel if needed.

It's really a better way, I think. (If I had pets that could possibly drink any spilled coolant, that would be all the more reason to use this)
 
The no-spill coolant funnel is a whole lot less messy and it won't burp coolant all over while the engine is running (because it comes with a variety of caps to seal the opening).
 
The no-spill coolant funnel is a whole lot less messy and it won't burp coolant all over while the engine is running (because it comes with a variety of caps to seal the opening).
Got it. So just to be clear. I would use the no-spill funnel as follows.

1. Fill vehicle's coolant tank to max line (see photo below).
2. Leave the no-spill coolant funnel in the tank.
3. Start the car and let it run at idle until it gets to operating temperature.
4. Watch the tank / funnel as it purges the air out.
5. After about 15-20 minutes of running / no more bubbling remove funnel and top of to the max line with distilled water

12345.jpg
 
One last question. This has to do with purging air out of the coolant system.

Once the coolant system has been flushed and re-filled, I will start the car and let it run at idle until it gets to operating temperature. During this step, I will watch the bottle (with the cap off) because it's going to purge the air out. As it gets low, I will top off with distilled water until it reaches the fill line. Does this approach sound correct?
Also, make sure you turn the heat on. Fan speed low, max heat.
 
if you system is tight and no leaks on cool down it will self purge the air over a few cooling cycles. My Gen Coupe has the tank down low and hard to see. I replaced the hose going from radiator cap to over flow with clear tubing. If it's got coolant in it it's 100% full without taking the cap off.
 
Same vehicles are hard to bleed. If I were changing the AF on my Jeep 5.7 after draining the rad I’d remove the lower hose to drain as much of the block as possible, But…very important…I’d reinstall that lower hose & remove the thermostat housing & fill the engine slowly from there. Then re-install the stat housing. Next fill the rad & use the radiator funnel to bleed out the air. You do not want an air lock in the engine block because that can cause temps to spike. I’ve used that Lisle funnel many times & it’s well worth it. Much less mess.
 
Engines using modern coolant that have not been neglected typically don't need a flush just a drain and fill of the radiator.

While this is true, a '15 Ford probably started life with the Motorcraft orange OAT coolant and now many are switching to the Motorcraft VC-13-G Yellow P-OAT.. though it's supposed to be backwards compatible, but I'd rather get all the old orange out... it is now 8 yrs old if the factory fill.
 
One other question about these no spill funnels. From what I can find online, it appears it can also be used to burp the system. Since the excess coolant sits in the funnel you can easily see the air bubbles when purging the air out of the coolant system. When you no longer see the bubbles, you can confirm that no more air pockets remain in the system.

This sounds great because it simplifies the process, only thing is my vehicle doesn’t have a radiator cap. I have to add the coolant to the overflow tank. The videos I’ve watched where people use the no spill funnel, they fill using the radiator cap. since I’m filling the overflow tank I can only fill to the max line as marked on the tank. I won’t be able to overfill to the see the air bubbles in the funnel. So at this point I’m really just using the funnel to control any potential spills correct? Please let me know if I’m misunderstanding something.
 
The cooling systems with the pressurized overflow tank almost immediately remove the air when letting the engine idle. Usually a hose from the top of the cold side of the radiator and one from the heads opposite the coolant inflow.
 
On some vehicles, using one of those no spill funnels is a necessity. Was flushing the coolant on a 2015 Dodge Caravan with the 3.6. There is a HUGE vapor space that exists, likely due to the location of the upper radiator hose. The only way to purge that is to run the vehicle till operating temp when the thermostat opens and starts circulating coolant through that hose. Problem is that when the thermostat opens, there is a huge surge in liquid that would quickly leave a BIG mess if you have the rad cap open without the funnel to catch that liquid.
 
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