The TB may be dry on it's stub - maybe you can get in there and lube it with some ingenious method.
The Fork and actuation pivots may need lube, too.
The Fork and actuation pivots may need lube, too.
Clutch Pressure Plate Squeak: What Would You Do?
- Thread starter gathermewool
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gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
I removed the intercooler at the shop in preps for flushing the clutch and brake fluid system. I had my gf hop in the driver's seat and actuate the clutch a few times to figure out where the squeak was coming from - nothing. Thinking she didn't know how to operate a clutch correctly (yea, right!) I hopped in myself and operated the clutch - nothing. Not a peep, not a squeak not a single noise.
I grabbed the intercooler to see where the pivot stub thingy is in relation to the intercooler inlet tube, and it wasn't even close. Nothing that was moving is close to anything on the intercooler. Even after flushing the clutch fluid and resinstalling the interooler - nothing.
FWIW, it has been squeaking for along time, and squeaked on the way to the shop this morning. I don't get it, but what ever.
The brake bleeding job was a nightmare! I didn't have my syringe, so I emptied the old fluid from the reservoir by bleeding the first brake in line. What I didn't realize as I kept an eye on the level after each bleed is that brake fluid reservoir has what seems to be a baffle that runs athwart ships. While there appeared to be 4 mm of fluid left, enough for two more bleeds (I planned one more to be safe,) the other side of the baffle was empty. While bleeding that last time, my gf calls out that it's feeling really spongy. I shut the zirc fitting and found, to my horror, the reality of the situation.
Even with all of the zirc fittings tight and the reservoir full, the pedal would go right to the floor. The odd thing is that the Driver-side front and passenger-side rear calipers were able to be bled, even though the pedal continued to go to the floor. I was using Super Blue brake fluid, so it was obvious when all of the old fluid was out. The other two calipers dribbled a little of fluid out, but nothing more. The brake pedal still went straight to the floor with all of the zirc fittings closed. Oh noes!
I tried vacuum bleeding the line, but no luck. I was able to pull some fluid (and bubbles,) but I couldn't get a solid stream of fluid and the pedal still went to the floor with all of the zirc fittings closed. Another guy at the shop mentioned using the vacuum bleeder AND pumping the brakes. This worked! I was able to, after WAY more time than intended, purge the system of all the air and get the pedal to feel rock hard again!
I've only driven around 6 miles, but the brake feels even better than before the bleed. It may just be the placebo effect, but considering the fact that I'm expecting and looking for bubbles, maybe not! It sucks that a 45 minutes job that I've done countless times (not on this car, though) took 2 hours, but it was done and done right, and didn't require being flat-bedded to a shop to take care of it.
Lesson Learned. I hope I don't forget in two years when I have to do this again.
I grabbed the intercooler to see where the pivot stub thingy is in relation to the intercooler inlet tube, and it wasn't even close. Nothing that was moving is close to anything on the intercooler. Even after flushing the clutch fluid and resinstalling the interooler - nothing.
FWIW, it has been squeaking for along time, and squeaked on the way to the shop this morning. I don't get it, but what ever.
The brake bleeding job was a nightmare! I didn't have my syringe, so I emptied the old fluid from the reservoir by bleeding the first brake in line. What I didn't realize as I kept an eye on the level after each bleed is that brake fluid reservoir has what seems to be a baffle that runs athwart ships. While there appeared to be 4 mm of fluid left, enough for two more bleeds (I planned one more to be safe,) the other side of the baffle was empty. While bleeding that last time, my gf calls out that it's feeling really spongy. I shut the zirc fitting and found, to my horror, the reality of the situation.
Even with all of the zirc fittings tight and the reservoir full, the pedal would go right to the floor. The odd thing is that the Driver-side front and passenger-side rear calipers were able to be bled, even though the pedal continued to go to the floor. I was using Super Blue brake fluid, so it was obvious when all of the old fluid was out. The other two calipers dribbled a little of fluid out, but nothing more. The brake pedal still went straight to the floor with all of the zirc fittings closed. Oh noes!
I tried vacuum bleeding the line, but no luck. I was able to pull some fluid (and bubbles,) but I couldn't get a solid stream of fluid and the pedal still went to the floor with all of the zirc fittings closed. Another guy at the shop mentioned using the vacuum bleeder AND pumping the brakes. This worked! I was able to, after WAY more time than intended, purge the system of all the air and get the pedal to feel rock hard again!
I've only driven around 6 miles, but the brake feels even better than before the bleed. It may just be the placebo effect, but considering the fact that I'm expecting and looking for bubbles, maybe not! It sucks that a 45 minutes job that I've done countless times (not on this car, though) took 2 hours, but it was done and done right, and didn't require being flat-bedded to a shop to take care of it.
Lesson Learned. I hope I don't forget in two years when I have to do this again.
Turn up the radio.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
It's back...ZERO noise while at the shop, ZERO noise on the drive to lunch and then home, and ZERO noise on the way to the beach. As soon as I clutch in to start the car to leave the beach - CREAK...
I'm lost.
I'm lost.
The issue definitely sounds temprature related as well.
I'd tend to agree with internal clutch parts needing lube like the PP springs and other items.
I'd tend to agree with internal clutch parts needing lube like the PP springs and other items.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: urchin
The issue definitely sounds temprature related as well.
I'd tend to agree with internal clutch parts needing lube like the PP springs and other items.
I was tempted to spray some white lithium grease between the stub and the boot for good measure, but there was ZERO, I mean ZERO noise. I can't believe that something that is so noticeable and annoying can just vanish for half a day.
As far as it being related to temperature, I'm not so sure. It has been just as loud on 57* mornings as 80 afternoons when I leave work.
The issue definitely sounds temprature related as well.
I'd tend to agree with internal clutch parts needing lube like the PP springs and other items.
I was tempted to spray some white lithium grease between the stub and the boot for good measure, but there was ZERO, I mean ZERO noise. I can't believe that something that is so noticeable and annoying can just vanish for half a day.
As far as it being related to temperature, I'm not so sure. It has been just as loud on 57* mornings as 80 afternoons when I leave work.
I going to go out on a limb here, humidity related?
Yeah I know it sounds crazy but...could it be that some moisture condensate is creeping into something just enough to cause this?
Yeah I know it sounds crazy but...could it be that some moisture condensate is creeping into something just enough to cause this?
Originally Posted By: urchin
I going to go out on a limb here, humidity related?
Yeah I know it sounds crazy but...could it be that some moisture condensate is creeping into something just enough to cause this?
My WRX's clutch squeals whenever it's cool and humid. Does it for about the first ten minutes I drive it.
I going to go out on a limb here, humidity related?
Yeah I know it sounds crazy but...could it be that some moisture condensate is creeping into something just enough to cause this?
My WRX's clutch squeals whenever it's cool and humid. Does it for about the first ten minutes I drive it.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: JRed
Originally Posted By: urchin
I going to go out on a limb here, humidity related?
Yeah I know it sounds crazy but...could it be that some moisture condensate is creeping into something just enough to cause this?
My WRX's clutch squeals whenever it's cool and humid. Does it for about the first ten minutes I drive it.
Maybe it really has been humid here for the past few weeks. The squeak is gone again this morning, on this beautifully warm, low-humidity afternoon. I've resigned myself to just living with it, and not trying to track it down to my wit's end!
Thanks again for every one's input. If I do eventually figure it out I'll post back up the solution. For now, it's beach time! I need to get some sun on this pasty body!
Originally Posted By: urchin
I going to go out on a limb here, humidity related?
Yeah I know it sounds crazy but...could it be that some moisture condensate is creeping into something just enough to cause this?
My WRX's clutch squeals whenever it's cool and humid. Does it for about the first ten minutes I drive it.
Maybe it really has been humid here for the past few weeks. The squeak is gone again this morning, on this beautifully warm, low-humidity afternoon. I've resigned myself to just living with it, and not trying to track it down to my wit's end!
Thanks again for every one's input. If I do eventually figure it out I'll post back up the solution. For now, it's beach time! I need to get some sun on this pasty body!
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