Chevy 5.3 Plug wires

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Your the one promoting these 0 Ohm wires as something special no one else, the guy who made the video isn't on here promoting them.
There is more than enough evidence that they don't bring much if any improvement only maybe some problems. Check that!

What NGK has to say. Now who do we believe you and some guy making videos to promote his products or NGK? I will believe NGK thanks.

Originally Posted By: NGK
When a spark plug fires, it creates a great deal of radio frequency interference (RFI) and electromagnetic interference (EMI). Uncontrolled, this can show up as static in the radio or other electronic devices, or much more seriously, in electronic ignitions, fuel injection, and engine management systems. This interference with EFI and engine management systems can cause "cross talk" between wiring harnesses resulting in poor running, misfiring and decreased performance.

NGK Resistor Spark Plug Wire Sets utilize a construction method known as "variable pitch" wire winding to create resistance to radio frequency interference. The variable pitch winding (loose/tight/loose) provides suppression throughout a very wide range by "scrambling" and breaking up the electrical waves radiated by the firing of the spark plugs.

A ferrite magnetic layer consisting of a mixture of rubber, plastic and powdered ferrite magnetic materials, offers uniform resistance and unsurpassed conductivity. NGK wires have a lower resistance than conventional carbon core wires (8k ohm/meter vs. 16k ohm/meter).
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Your the one promoting these 0 Ohm wires as something special no one else, the guy who made the video isn't on here promoting them.


Is this thread a magnet for people with voices in their head? I'm not the one who brought up zero ohm wires, and I'm not the one who wanted a video posted. The video was a response to a request.


Quote:
There is more than enough evidence that they don't bring much if any improvement only maybe some problems. Check that!

What NGK has to say. Now who do we believe you and some guy making videos to promote his products or NGK? I will believe NGK thanks.

Originally Posted By: NGK
When a spark plug fires, it creates a great deal of radio frequency interference (RFI) and electromagnetic interference (EMI). Uncontrolled, this can show up as static in the radio or other electronic devices, or much more seriously, in electronic ignitions, fuel injection, and engine management systems. This interference with EFI and engine management systems can cause "cross talk" between wiring harnesses resulting in poor running, misfiring and decreased performance.

NGK Resistor Spark Plug Wire Sets utilize a construction method known as "variable pitch" wire winding to create resistance to radio frequency interference. The variable pitch winding (loose/tight/loose) provides suppression throughout a very wide range by "scrambling" and breaking up the electrical waves radiated by the firing of the spark plugs.

A ferrite magnetic layer consisting of a mixture of rubber, plastic and powdered ferrite magnetic materials, offers uniform resistance and unsurpassed conductivity. NGK wires have a lower resistance than conventional carbon core wires (8k ohm/meter vs. 16k ohm/meter).


Are you seriously using the marketing material of one company trying to sell low-resistance wires to debunk the claims of another company selling low-resistance wires? Good Golly.

How does anything above even begin to contradict anything Granatelli sells, other than your apparent insinuation that his wires are not EMI/RFI shielded?

I guess now that NGK no longer sells wires advertised to produce 130% more spark that fail to match stock old Honda wires in independent testing, they're the guys to go to for technical info.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Which is a fine way of not finishing what you started. Kthxbye.


DoubleWasp,

There's nothing to finish. I respect your opinion. But we simply don't agree on this subject. When that happens, it's best to just agree to disagree and move on.

A lot of us here bump heads on topics all the time. Go start a thread on "thin vs thick" oil, and you'll have a 14 page bloodbath in no time. And the next week everyone's on to something else and friends again. Trav (whose wrenching opinions I respect), had a little bump with me a week or so ago over a word used. But I still respect his opinion, and I hope that he still respects mine.

There's lots of good guys here with plenty to share. Sometimes, they don't mesh. Don't take it personal if someone calls you out on something.

The Eggles won a nice game today in the second half, so I'm in a good mood.

Go have a cold one and enjoy your Sunday.
 
Your the one posting the video as evidence to what you were claiming, it is irrelevant if it was to a request or not.
You claim.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Now let's go through the checklist:

Easier starting: Check
Better fuel economy: Check
More power: Check

Which is absolutely not true. Low Ohm or zero Ohm do nothing of the sort over OEM wires in a street engine with stock ignition.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Your the one posting the video as evidence to what you were claiming, it is irrelevant if it was to a request or not.


It's completely relevant toward proving that I never pushed that product on anyone, and that the brand and materials only came up because it was the intention of a person other than myself to bring these details to the forum. As I have clearly demonstrated that it was not my intention to bring this material to this forum, and did not ever recommend that anyone purchase any of these products, it is completely unreasonable for you to accuse me of being a troll, pushing these products on anyone.

Quote:
You claim.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Now let's go through the checklist:

Easier starting: Check
Better fuel economy: Check
More power: Check

Which is absolutely not true.


Oh, you drive my car now? I thought I was the only one at the wheel of it. No wonder this last OCI was so short.

Nowhere in there do I say anything about:

*zero ohm wires
*Granatelli
*Any other engine besides mine

Quote:
Low Ohm or zero Ohm do nothing of the sort over OEM wires in a street engine with stock ignition.


That's one fine armchair argument you keep making.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead


DoubleWasp,

There's nothing to finish. I respect your opinion. But we simply don't agree on this subject. When that happens, it's best to just agree to disagree and move on.

A lot of us here bump heads on topics all the time. Go start a thread on "thin vs thick" oil, and you'll have a 14 page bloodbath in no time. And the next week everyone's on to something else and friends again. Trav (whose wrenching opinions I respect), had a little bump with me a week or so ago over a word used. But I still respect his opinion, and I hope that he still respects mine.

There's lots of good guys here with plenty to share. Sometimes, they don't mesh. Don't take it personal if someone calls you out on something.

The Eggles won a nice game today in the second half, so I'm in a good mood.

Go have a cold one and enjoy your Sunday.


You called me petulant. I wasn't going to let that one go.
wink.gif


I have enjoyed my Sunday. So far, I saved a maiden from the terror of being stuck on the side of I95 and having to deal with a scoundrel of tow truck driver, did 18 miles on my bike, washed the cars/truck, changed my car from RT5/D+ for RT6/XG5 Syn, bottled up my UOA, filled out the paperwork and packaged it for the mail, cleaned house, treated the leather on my living room set to baby smoothness, recycled all of my accumulated used oil, ordered a Baldwin dual-flow for the Cummins, and I'm in the middle of a True Blood marathon.

I'm always in a good mood.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Have fun playing with your hot rod wires.
crazy2.gif



If you were reading, they are actually marine wires, and they are naturally low resistance, because they are stainless steel windings.
wink.gif
 
Ummm, Holy wow...

I have MSDs on the truck because you can use the factory heat shield with them and they were on sale. The Trans Am has some Taylors because I like the color blue and they too were on sale...
The other cars have stock GM stuff.

The MSD and Taylors are nice becuase they were a bit larger so they were easy to get on and off, but I digress I buy plug wires that are on sale. The Trucks were 50 bucks shipped. The Trans Am were 59 shipped and blue is soothing. YaaaaY!
 
Ls1Mike,


Thank you for posting.


My Tahoe doesn't get driven more than 7k/yr (at least that is my plan). I should have probably replaced them at the same time, but my feeling is that even next year, the wires will only have 77k on them. I will certainly do them at that time.

Thanks for the opinions.
 
What do you guys thing the proper interval for replacement is? Age or miles or both? i only have 63k but its an 03. Used for towing, lots of times with OD locked out, would you replace the plugs and wires now?
 
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For an 03 the wires might be getting a little crispy from age. I replaced mine a couple of years ago and they had a couple of burn spots just starting.

My truck isn't a hot rod so I just used AC Delco OE parts, figured I'd be good for another 100k at least.
 
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy

My truck isn't a hot rod so I just used AC Delco OE parts, figured I'd be good for another 100k at least.

Better watch out with that AC Delco stuff the thing will probably die in the middle of the road and never start again. LOL
JK Good wires.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
What do you guys thing the proper interval for replacement is? Age or miles or both? i only have 63k but its an 03. Used for towing, lots of times with OD locked out, would you replace the plugs and wires now?


If you are concerned about your wires, check them for resistance, compare them to spec, and perform a visual inspection to make sure they have no physical damage.

If everything checks out, don't worry about it, and check them again at the next OCI or some other regular schedule.
 
Removing or getting rough with wires with that kind of age and mileage on them unless you intend to replace them is not the best idea, it can cause problems where one didn't exist.

Certainly check them for burns, cuts, rubbing and other damage but use a scan tool to check the misfire count (not just a code) if an ignition issue is suspected.
OBD II will detect a actual misfire quickly and trip the CEL but misfire count can give a good indication before that happens.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
They (GM) don't seem to have any trouble going 100K, anything before than is IMHO a want service not a need service.


Yep, we run them FAR past that benchmark. Plugs, too. No need for too much worry on them.

I will repeat we have used Autolite cheapies on several trucks here without a hiccup.

Note that many years ago my FIL had a truck that experienced weird brake wear because of EMI/RFI. It really does happen...
 
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