He said the aluminum square drive tool broke, not the square drive on the filter cap ... at least that's how I read it.I believe you, and I plan to take your advice, but why does the square drive break it and the socket not?
He said the aluminum square drive tool broke, not the square drive on the filter cap ... at least that's how I read it.I believe you, and I plan to take your advice, but why does the square drive break it and the socket not?
That's how I read it too, but the square drive hole on the tool is in the middle of the hex drive part, at least on the one I got.He said the aluminum square drive tool broke, not the square drive on the filter cap ... at least that's how I read it.
Like already mentioned ... more stress involved in the square drive hole than on the larger hex drive flats. The force on the square drive is trying to blow out the sides, where the stress on the hex drive is trying to compress the flats. If you used a 6-point socket on the hex drive it's not going to slip or damage the hex on the filter cap.That's how I read it too, but the square drive hole on the tool is in the middle of the hex drive part, at least on the one I got.
View attachment 94749
So why should turning it using the square drive break it, but turning it using the hex drive be okay?
Good pic. Thanks!I think the Toyota filters have a diagram inside the box if you're using them. The photo below shows a used one. The O-ring is flattened and oily, but it's in the correct groove. It goes just below the threads, NOT all of the way against the end flange.
Good call on ordering the cap tool with notches.
Another tip is to remove the cap using a big socket on the tool's hex. I broke at least one, and maybe two, trying to loosen the cap with a ratchet in the square-drive hole. (The aluminum tool broke, not the plastic cap.) I did install using the square-drive and a standard-length ratchet.
I was worried enough about the plastic to order a spare. Those caps can take a lot of abuse, though.
I see. For some reason I didn't imagine that kind of break. I was thinking more like the slots would break or something. Thanks for posting a pic.I think it's a matter of force being concentrated in a small area vs. spread over a larger one--when the cap is really tight.
Here's a picture of the carnage:
View attachment 94799
That’s the one I sheared off a RAV4’s filter cap on. I bought the updated version.Goes with post above
TOMB
I've cut many Toyota/Denso spin-on oil filters and the filter element and center tube look exactly like you see in the cartridge type unit. Very well made. Only thing I haven't heard is criticism about the glued ends on the element. Agree with you big B, they are well built. I don't say much about Denso filters anymore but I still feel the same way.Toyota OEM cartridges are beautiful and well built.
Well that's a quality tool lolI think it's a matter of force being concentrated in a small area vs. spread over a larger one--when the cap is really tight.
Here's a picture of the carnage:
View attachment 94799
Not much you can do about the slop between the cap wrench to the housing except maybe a different cap tool would fit better.So here's my question: What's the best way to break it loose safely? Impact? Longer breaker bar? Penetrating oil? Heat it up with a torch? Some combination of those? I was thinking of trying my DeWalt impact driver with a square drive adapter. But I don't know what that'll do; there's a lot of slop from socket to cap wrench and cap wrench to housing.
Not using a 12-point. 1" 6-pt is too small, 1-1/16" is sloppy. None of my metric sockets fit either.Not much you can do about the slop between the cap wrench to the housing except maybe a different cap tool would fit better.
But try to find a 6-point socket that will fit tighter on the hex on the cap - don't use a 12-point socket. I would not use the square drive. Best thing to do is use a tight fitting 6-point socket and use a bigger/longer ratchet to break the housing cap loose.
The beauty of 6-point sockets is that even with some (but not crazy excessive) slop they won't slip past the edges of the nut hex. Maybe it's a 26 mm hex?Not using a 12-point. 1" 6-pt is too small, 1-1/16" is sloppy. None of my metric sockets fit either.
I imagine I could file down that hex a bit to get the 1" on.
There is a picture that shows you the correct position. The filter tool is a good idea. I use a new crush washer on the drain plug. The once metal housing has been updated to plastic, however I think $40 will buy the metal cartridge assembly.What is the correct groove? is there a pic?