Changing filter on a Toyota

[dwasifar]

My wife's daughter is bringing her van over this weekend for some fixing, and I said I'd do an oil change while I had it up on the ramps. Looked up the filter to order one, and found it's a cartridge filter. Not being a Toyota owner, this was a surprise to me.

Watched a couple of YT videos and now I've got some questions for you guys.

1) Some people I saw in the videos removed that center plug first and used a little plastic thingy to drain the housing, then unscrewed the housing. But it looked like a lot of oil came out of the housing anyway. Is the plug removal step worth it?

2) Is torque important when replacing the housing? I saw torque wrenches being used.

3) Why did Toyota use cartridge filters? Seems pointlessly messy, unless there was a good reason I'm not seeing.

 

[Electromotive]

My wife's daughter is bringing her van over this weekend for some fixing, and I said I'd do an oil change while I had it up on the ramps. Looked up the filter to order one, and found it's a cartridge filter. Not being a Toyota owner, this was a surprise to me.

Watched a couple of YT videos and now I've got some questions for you guys.

1) Some people I saw in the videos removed that center plug first and used a little plastic thingy to drain the housing, then unscrewed the housing. But it looked like a lot of oil came out of the housing anyway. Is the plug removal step worth it?

2) Is torque important when replacing the housing? I saw torque wrenches being used.

3) Why did Toyota use cartridge filters? Seems pointlessly messy, unless there was a good reason I'm not seeing.

I change oil in a 2016 Camry 4 cyl. , and the first time I removed the center plug. All other times I have left it in place. Yes, the Toyota cartridge filter on some of their models is pretty messy. I don't use a torque wrench on the housing cap. Another family member has a 2018 Camry 4 cyl. and it has the spin on type filter. Sure wish the 2016 Camry was the same.

 

[GSCJR]

1. I don't remove the disk to intall the drain nipple and new o-ring. I treat the assembly as I would a spin-on filter.
2. Turn the housing until it bottoms out and then just give it a little nudge more.
3. $$

 

[JMJNet]

1. x2 with above. It is not that bad, just wear rubber gloves and make sure the oil pan is ready underneath.
2. I usually just turn it until it stops. It has some type of spring that hold the canister up.
3. You need to ask Toyota to answer that question. This type of question comes out a lot in this forum and people think that we know but we don't.

 

[Leo99]

1. I don't remove the disk to intall the drain nipple and new o-ring. I treat the assembly as I would a spin-on filter.
2. Turn the housing until it bottoms out and then just give it a little nudge more.
3. $$

1. Every now and then I remove the little plug at the bottom but not usually. It just adds time to the job and half the time the little plastic thing that will come with the new filter doesn't thread in smoothly and it's an even longer waste of time.
2. My housing screws in with medium difficulty. Not easy like a spin-on filter. Then it bottoms out suddenly and doesn't budge. I'm afraid I'd break the plastic if I gave it a little nudge more.
3. Who know but I don't like it.

Key points. Make sure you put the new gasket where it belongs and not on a thread. It's tight getting it off and takes some muscle. I use a half-inch ratchet with a socket on my tool. You need the tool and ratchet to screw the new one on unless you're a lot stronger than me. Then the tool gets stuck on the housing and you have to smack it to get it off.

 

[khittner1]

I have three Toyotas, but only one with a cartridge filter (2011 Highlander 2.7), and I do all of their oil changes.

1. I've never bothered with the drain plug, or the little plastic widget that's included with the new filter to drain the filter before removal. One of the few upsides to the early days of the pandemic is that I now have a generous supply of nitrile gloves that I now repurpose for oil changes, and the Highlander is the one where they're most useful. Just unscrew the housing and let it drip into your drain pan a bit before fully removing it; it'll still be a minor mess, but not much worse than a regular canister filter.

2. No need for a torque wrench when reinstalling the new filter cartridge and the housing. Use the included new O-ring on the housing, wipe a light coat of oil onto the O-ring before reinstalling the housing. When you're screwing the filter housing up into position, you may get a llittle bit of resistance to its turning from the O-ring (hence, the suggestion to lube it lightly), but when you suddenly encounter a full-stop end to the housing's willingness to turn, just stop right there--it's done, and will seal completely adequately. If you gorilla tighten any further, you stand a reasonable chance of breaking the plastic housing. I've done almost 40 oil changes on our Highlander, and the OEM plastic cartridge housing is still doing its job well.

3. From what I can recall, they thought they going to make filter recycling easier.

 

[Tyson]

1. No
2. Snug
3. Save the landfill.

 

[Schandyman]

It wouldn't bother me spin on or cartridge.. cost was probably the main objective guess they figured the average toy customer is good for a once a yr oil change and maybe a little more time consuming so it can boost up shop time. Not sure haven't yet fiddled with one

 

[JeffKeryk]

Get one of these Toyota oil filter tools. I like the ones with the slots; position the tool so the filter uses the middle slot.
I don't remove the end drain plug. In fact, my Lexus GS does not have one.
Use oil to lube the cartridge housing threads and o-ring before installation!

Remember, it seals on the o-ring, not on torque. The torque setting is like 18 pound feet, so go easy.
And hope the last guy did not gorilla the filter.

 

[dwasifar]

Get one of these Toyota oil filter tools. I like the ones with the slots; position the tool so the filter uses the middle slot.

Yep, already got one on order. I thought about trying to get away without it for about 90 seconds and then decided for seven bucks or whatever it wasn't worth it to be lying under the car swearing and trying to improvise.

I'll bet the used filter will make a great firestarter for my outdoor firepan.

 

[Slick3914]

Be very careful that the o ring is in the correct groove

 

[nthach]

Get one of these Toyota oil filter tools. I like the ones with the slots; position the tool so the filter uses the middle slot.
I don't remove the end drain plug. In fact, my Lexus GS does not have one.
Use oil to lube the cartridge housing threads and o-ring before installation!

Remember, it seals on the o-ring, not on torque. The torque setting is like 18 pound feet, so go easy.
And hope the last guy did not gorilla the filter.

A friend bought one that worked well for a Tundra from MotivX that also engaged the housing tabs. Same wrench sheared off the tabs on a RAV4 with the 2AR engine.

Since a Toyota product with this setup joined the family, I bought the updated version to deal with this. The newest ones are American made and only engage the flutes, and have a slight undersize so they can fit warm or old filter caps. Works like a treat on a 1UR-FE in a GX460 that uses a similar setup as the Tundra.

I also bought the drain tool as well.

 

[dwasifar]

A friend bought one that worked well for a Tundra from MotivX that also engaged the housing tabs. Same wrench sheared off the tabs on a RAV4 with the 2AR engine.

Since a Toyota product with this setup joined the family, I bought the updated version to deal with this. The newest ones are American made and only engage the flutes, and have a slight undersize so they can fit warm or old filter caps. Works like a treat on a 1UR-FE in a GX460 that uses a similar setup as the Tundra.

I also bought the drain tool as well.

I'd like to follow that link, but there's something wrong with it. Mind reposting?

 

[AutoMechanic]

I like to remove the middle plug. Makes it less messy in my opinion.

Torque wrench not required however make sure it’s not monkey tight either. Hopefully the last guy didn’t install it too tight. These housings are prone to cracking. I advise replacing with a aluminum one which are readily available. I’ve had to use a really really long 1/2 ratchet before to break it loose. And usually when it’s so tight like that you hear that crack that you didn’t want to hear

Lastly, I think most will have different opinions but I think it was for environmental purposes but that’s all I’m saying on that.

 

[Jaymie]

1. No
2. Snug
3. Save the landfill.

Couldn’t have said it better myself

 

[dwasifar]

Torque wrench not required however make sure it’s not monkey tight either. Hopefully the last guy didn’t install it too tight. These housings are prone to cracking. I advise replacing with a aluminum one which are readily available. I’ve had to use a really really long 1/2 ratchet before to break it loose. And usually when it’s so tight like that you hear that crack that you didn’t want to hear.

Thanks for that advice. I ordered a replacement housing to have on hand just in case. Free returns to Amazon if I don't use it.

 

[JeffKeryk]

The composite housing is fine as long as it has not been overtightened and the proper tool is used (and used correctly).
There are also conversion kits that allow for the conventional filter to be use, but they cost too much.

 

[slug_bug]

Be very careful that the o ring is in the correct groove

What is the correct groove? is there a pic?

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

I think the Toyota filters have a diagram inside the box if you're using them. The photo below shows a used one. The O-ring is flattened and oily, but it's in the correct groove. It goes just below the threads, NOT all of the way against the end flange.

Good call on ordering the cap tool with notches.
Another tip is to remove the cap using a big socket on the tool's hex. I broke at least one, and maybe two, trying to loosen the cap with a ratchet in the square-drive hole. (The aluminum tool broke, not the plastic cap.) I did install using the square-drive and a standard-length ratchet.

I was worried enough about the plastic to order a spare. Those caps can take a lot of abuse, though.

 

[dwasifar]

Good call on ordering the cap tool with notches.
Another tip is to remove the cap using a big socket on the tool's hex. I broke at least one, and maybe two, trying to loosen the cap with a ratchet in the square-drive hole. (The aluminum tool broke, not the plastic cap.) I did install using the square-drive and a standard-length ratchet.

I believe you, and I plan to take your advice, but why does the square drive break it and the socket not?