Castrol Syntec 5-50
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Hahaha, before I knew what I know now from the many hours of study on the subject. I ran heavier oil that what was called for because I thought heavier was better!
I had a 92 ranger v-6 ran 20w50 most of the time.
Ran the 5w50 in the F150.
Then by doing alot of research and reading, that heavier is not better unless you are racing and your oil temps would dictate a heavier oil. See with higher oil temps the oil gets thiner. Say a 10w30 is 9.3 cSt at 100C well it may only be say 5.6 cSt at 121C(250F) it might only be 5.6 a low 20 weight or even lower. Hence the reason for a heavy weight oil.
Now really the only thing that needs these high weight oil's are racing engines that perform for longer periods, say over 1hr. (even dragsters don't really need a heavy weight oil) unless they are running alcohol fuel.
Most cars in the USA don't see oil temps over 100C. So a xw30 is plenty for the USA.
2 exceptions would be heavy towing or high speed driving. Also any air/oil cooled engine should problably run a higher wieght oil.
So as the force is with me I know run the proper grade of oil in my truck an Xw30!
kev99sl
I used Delvac 1 too. Trying to decide between Redline 5W-30/10W-30 (winter), 10W-40 (summer), M1 0W-40 year round or back to Delvac 1 5W-40 year round for my vehicles. I think maybe a 40 weight for the turbo bearings in summer may be a good idea, but still can't decide.
So many different opinions here but that's what makes it so interesting I guess.
I used Delvac 1 too. Trying to decide between Redline 5W-30/10W-30 (winter), 10W-40 (summer), M1 0W-40 year round or back to Delvac 1 5W-40 year round for my vehicles. I think maybe a 40 weight for the turbo bearings in summer may be a good idea, but still can't decide.
So many different opinions here but that's what makes it so interesting I guess.
Here are the numbers for my 5w50.
2100 on the oil
20100 on the truck
gly neg
water fuel Vis at 100C 18.7
soot NA
oxd, 10.0%
nox, 17.1%
FE 11
Cr 1
PB 13
CU 8
SN 0
Al 8
Ni 1
Ag 0
Mn 1
SI 18
B 17
Na 6
Mg 369
Ca 1500
Ba 0
P 767
Zn 1138
Mo 80
Ti 0
V 0
Cd 0
Filter used was a Fram Tough Guard
Also the oil was only in the truck 5 months.
Hope this helps.
2100 on the oil
20100 on the truck
gly neg
water fuel Vis at 100C 18.7
soot NA
oxd, 10.0%
nox, 17.1%
FE 11
Cr 1
PB 13
CU 8
SN 0
Al 8
Ni 1
Ag 0
Mn 1
SI 18
B 17
Na 6
Mg 369
Ca 1500
Ba 0
P 767
Zn 1138
Mo 80
Ti 0
V 0
Cd 0
Filter used was a Fram Tough Guard
Also the oil was only in the truck 5 months.
Hope this helps.
It's greatly appreciated that all oil analysis reports be posted in the oil analysis section and just reffer to them in any posts. There we can discuss, and analyize and keep them in one area for use to browse through. Thanks.
Ron
[ June 25, 2002, 11:20 PM: Message edited by: Ron ]
I Think I have one analysis of this exact oil at home. This is what I ran for the first 18,000 miles in my truck before I knew any better. I'll see if I can get the number up on here for you. (I think I only had 2500 on the oil before I dumped it, changed to Amsoil. Prior to that I was running 8K oil drains.)quote:
Originally posted by Ron:
Does anyone have analysis on Castrol Syntec oils?I'm using 5-50(warm to hot climate)in my'99 Ford E150 4.2L six . I'm Driving 8K miles and changing oil twice yearly.Is that pushing the VI additive package of this oil?
At 20K,I'd like to know this oil is OK for the long haul in my Ford Van.Thanks.
Ron
Not everybody is in the know about proper use of lubricant, and VII, and proper Vis. Luckly I learned the ways of the force
Patman
Staff member
Sure they do! 100c is only 212F, most cars will easily see oil temps in the 230F range or more on a hot day.
I got it done through oil analyzers inc.quote:
Originally posted by Ron:
Thanks Dr.T for your appraisal on this issue.I don't feel quite like,well,a fool yet.If, I go to a lighter weight oil,I'd enjoy the power boost from my Six banger. Msparks,thanks for your analyis numbers.Where did you get them?I'd like to use the same analysis firm.Maybe, the profile won't indicate anything definitive about Castrol Syntec,but maybe something sticks out.Thanks-All
Ron
http://www.oaitesting.com/
You can order the kit right off of the site for $19. I can get them to you wholesale for $15.
Msparks,
I may have gone over to the dark side here but I firmly stand on the side of using thicker than xw/30 wt oils. I won't use the thicker oils on newer engines but have no problem with it on older ones.
Lightweight oil is a great fuel economy tool and really helps with very low temp cold starts, but it can't help much when the temps really go up, and those temps really go up during the summer.
The thermostat may maintain 200f temps in the cooling water, but the oil is much hotter than that in certain areas of the engine. A vehicle does not have to be towing a load or racing to warrant using a heavier oil (racing vehicles can use lighter oils to qualify and then use heavier oil during the race because the engine would not last with the thinner oil).
I'm not advocating gear oil here, but the xw/30 wt oils are more for helping the vehicles get better fuel mileage than they are for metal protection.
I'm also not saying that using a xw/30 wt oil will cause an early engine death either, but I know that most people don't keep vehicles for the full life of the vehicle (which I consider 200k+ miles) so they frequently never hear the sounds
of worn bearings or see the blue smoke exhaust due to worn rings. I know how viscosity works too, which is another reason why I personally use heavier oil than xw/30 , particularly during the hot summer.
I may have gone over to the dark side here but I firmly stand on the side of using thicker than xw/30 wt oils. I won't use the thicker oils on newer engines but have no problem with it on older ones.
Lightweight oil is a great fuel economy tool and really helps with very low temp cold starts, but it can't help much when the temps really go up, and those temps really go up during the summer.
The thermostat may maintain 200f temps in the cooling water, but the oil is much hotter than that in certain areas of the engine. A vehicle does not have to be towing a load or racing to warrant using a heavier oil (racing vehicles can use lighter oils to qualify and then use heavier oil during the race because the engine would not last with the thinner oil).
I'm not advocating gear oil here, but the xw/30 wt oils are more for helping the vehicles get better fuel mileage than they are for metal protection.
I'm also not saying that using a xw/30 wt oil will cause an early engine death either, but I know that most people don't keep vehicles for the full life of the vehicle (which I consider 200k+ miles) so they frequently never hear the sounds
of worn bearings or see the blue smoke exhaust due to worn rings. I know how viscosity works too, which is another reason why I personally use heavier oil than xw/30 , particularly during the hot summer.
msparks,
Please forgive my ignorance if you posted analysis already and honest I'll stop with this crazy desire to run a thick oil if you can help.
Have you run analysis that support Xw30 as being just as good for your vehicles as Xw40 or Xw50?
Msparks: regarding your oil analysis results. I like to see single digit silicon (dirt) levels. If you are not running a K&N or other aftermarket air cleaner element, suggest you check your intake system for possible leak...
I got a 1996 F-150 with a 302 V-8 from new. Now has 215,000 miles on the motor. When it hit 100,000 miles I switched to 15w-40 only. Motor runs just as good now as years past. I feel that by going to 15W-40 for the last 115K has helped me reach this milestone (my opinion). Maybe the 10W-30 I used from new to 100,000 miles would have done just as good, but I feel once a motor gets over 100K on it a heavier oil is better.
Hi,
I just posted on Oil Analysis the Blackstone report on CASTROL SYNTEC 5W50.Any opinions on the results would be welcome.Thanks.
Ron
I just posted on Oil Analysis the Blackstone report on CASTROL SYNTEC 5W50.Any opinions on the results would be welcome.Thanks.
Ron
George,
On my last 3 analysis(Just got one back) all of my silicone number are over 10.
13 The latest with a paper filter 10K on the oil
24 With a K&N, that I through away. 10K on the oil
18 With a K&N and only 2100 on the oil
msparks,
I have had 2 analysis using a 2 stage foam air cleaner. First w/8K and Si-6, second with 4.5K and Si-2. On your next order you might consider getting one if you haven't already.
I have had 2 analysis using a 2 stage foam air cleaner. First w/8K and Si-6, second with 4.5K and Si-2. On your next order you might consider getting one if you haven't already.
I wish I could, since Ford came out with that cone style filter, Amsoil does not and has no plans on making that style filter.
So I am stuck with paper or a K&N. This pretty much leaves me with Paper.
In regards to the K&N I put it on before I knew anybetter, So I got rid of it and went back to paper.
msparks,
I've got a 2-stage foam, cone with a 4 1/4 inlet. You can use PVC to reduce it. If it will work let me know. It is sold by WD, and is so close to Amsoil it would pass for one. Suppose to be made by the same company. e-mail me if you think it would work.
[ August 03, 2002, 11:40 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
I've got a 2-stage foam, cone with a 4 1/4 inlet. You can use PVC to reduce it. If it will work let me know. It is sold by WD, and is so close to Amsoil it would pass for one. Suppose to be made by the same company. e-mail me if you think it would work.
[ August 03, 2002, 11:40 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
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