Brake problems after repairing brakes?

[Tundraz]

Hi Guys, first many thanks to the gentleman who posted the video on how to gt off a stuck rotor, it works like a charm .

Well i got the stuck rotors off and put on some new ones but now i have a problem i have never seen before.

1) the new rotors rubbing against the left side of the caliper, the side that faces away from the car,

2) the brake pedal has gotten really soft even though i made sure not to open the brake lines as i replaced the rotors, all i did was to use a "C" clamp to push in the piston when i replaced the braked pads.
What could have gone wrong? Anybody ever see a problem like this before?

Thanks for any help you can offer .

Tundraz.

 

[spasm3]

Just asking but.. you do have a brake pad on each side of the rotor correct? Not just in inboard side? Or are you saying its rubbing the brake pad on the outboard side?

 

[Tundraz]

Oh, i forgot to mention that it is a Toyota RAV 4 2.4 liter motor , year 2004, with 194,000 miles.

This is the front brakes i am having the probs with , Thanks,

Tundraz

 

[Tundraz]

Spasm , no its rubbing the outboard side even though both brake pads are in the housing unit.

Thanks, Tundraz

 

[DARKSCOPE001]

This is just my thoughts and im no car mech so take it or leave it.

First. after installing the new brakes did you pump them? if not they will feel spongy till the pistons compensate for the extra space or whatever.

Secondly. while this is the "normal" method of returning the piston. sometimes they can become stuck (if they are stuck just tap lightly with a rubber mallet to try and free them) or its possible to damage the MC by forcing fluid backwards through it.

Might try bleeding the brakes. (if you dont feel ok doing this have a shop do it for you) also how bad is the rubbing? is it rubbing with the wheels torqued and everything? did you run each lugnut down evenly? it doesent need to be put on with a torque wrench. but start everything firm and work up in a star pastern. just so that the rotor and wheel arent sitting funny on the spindle.

Also check for leaks. pump the brakes (normal travel of range dont press the pedal to the floor) pump until the pedal firms up, if it doesent pump until you feel resistance. pump pump pump. just keep pumping. pump until your leg is tired. then look under the car. if there is a drip of brake fluid or something is wet. you have a problem.

Hope that helps
Sean Scott

 

[cos]

Have the brakes ever been bled before? If not you might have forced rust and/or corrosion back up into the system (ABS, proportioning valve, master cylinder).

 

[Virtuoso]

Bleeding your brakes should take care of the mushy pedal.

As far as your rotor rubbing, double check it's the right rotor for your car.. and then make sure you re-installed the caliper correctly. Maybe make sure there's no rust or debris between the rotor and hub also?

 

[Trav]

Some cars use shims behind the rotor, check and see if they are offered for this one.

 

[Tundraz]

Thanks for replying guys, i did not see a shim behind the old rotor which is the original rotor that the RAV came from the factory with, so i dont think it is required , i think, .

Yes i will definitely clean up the hub with a wire brush if it will help even though it looks quite clean to me.

I am going to check on the Part number to see if it matches a 2004 rav 4.

 

[Smoky14]

Measure the set back from "hat to disk". This depth is critical

 

[The_Eric]

Are your caliper slides seized?

 

[eljefino]

The rotor probably isn't on right. Could be rust, as said above. Don't muck with bleeding the lines yet, you have a mechanical problem.

Or you bent your caliper bracket using those bolts to force the old rotor off.

 

[mechtech2]

Some rotors and brake drums come with too much metal -oversized.
This could be a problem.
But I suspect faulty installation/technique.
A mushy pedal could be indicative of a needed brake bleed, but also poor fitting and unseated pads.

 

[stephen9666]

How much is it rubbing? Disc brakes generally have some contact between the pads and rotor.

 

[Tundraz]

THanks a lot guys for trying to help me out on this.

1) if i did bend the caliper bracket slightly could i bend it back without breaking it?

2) the rotor is not rubbing against the pads it is rubbing against the top of the outboard side of the caliper , half of the rotor is marred where it rubs against the caliper and the part where the pad contacts the rotor is not marred just a portion of the rotor is marred where it rubs against the caliber outboard side.
The rotor is not resting heavily on the caliber but rubbing it never the less .

When i put the wheel back on do i have to button down the wheel nuts real tight? Because when i test drove it and discover the problem i did not button down the wheel real tight because i did not want to warp the brand new rotors.

THe Rotors are the Wearever brand, seem to be a quality product, i checked the part number on Advance autoparts website and the number came back correctly for a 2004 Rav 4. Also the right side fit perfectly so why am i having the left side rub ?

Thanks guys.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: Tundraz


1) if i did bend the caliper bracket slightly could i bend it back without breaking it?



I don't think this is a question anyone on the internet is qualified to answer without seeing your car. Do you want metal fatigue on a safety related part?

 

[spasm3]

Hitting the top of the caliper? are the rotors the same circumference? if you got the wrong rotor say and 11" rather that a 10" i could see this happening compare the old and new rotors.

 

[stephen9666]

You need to post some pics so people will know what it happening.

 

[Tundraz]

Sorry i did not get the pics up as yet, but today i disassembled the caliper and discovered that the bottom sliding bolt is stuck it is not sliding as it should like the other one, could this be related? could this be what has caused the rotor to have run out problems?

For a few months now i noticed a slight humming sound coming from that area of the vehicle while driving could the stuck bolt caused the pad to rest on the rotor overheating it and causing it to have run out problems requiring me to fix the problem?
Can a stuck sliding bolt prevent the rotor from seating properly?

Thanks, Tundraz

 

[SteveSRT8]

Stuck sliders will usually overheat the pad and rotor causing all kinds of issues.

One thing you never want is the pad clamped down on a stationary rotor while it cools down. This will virtually guarantee pad deposition on the rotor face which is what many mistake for "warped rotors".