BITOG trends over the years...

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Originally Posted By: wemay

Royal Purpleis just Napa Syn in purple packaging


That is actually the newest RP negative( since the new API formula came out ).

The older/traditional RP stuff...

Too expensive
RP API SL is not as good as API SM offerings from name brand oil companies
RP API SN is now no better than Valvoline( see quote above )and is no good - now the old SL w/ Synerlec is considered good oil???
Tons of bad UOA's on RP( where I have no clue = not here )
RP is really conventional oil
Anyone who posts positive results with RP is just posting anecdotal evidence

I am sure I am forgetting some. So much hooey over the years re: RP.
 
Run 0w20/5w20 in a car spec'd for 5w30 and you're a genius.

Run 10w30 in that same car regardless of climate, you're an idiot.

Except as mentioned M1 0w40, you're a genius for running that in about anything.
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
If you run a K&N air filter, why use a filter at all - a 'no filter' approach actually has higher efficiency.

Royal Purple is just Napa Syn in purple packaging

Velveeta is Liquid Gold ("go-on, git")


RP API SN?
It is what it is.
 
Stupid OEMs cant be trusted with proper oil grade and maintenance for the vehicle it manufactures.

BITOG quickly becoming or has become the Bible and reference manual replacement for OEMs owners manual.
 
Originally Posted By: virginoil

Stupid OEMs cant be trusted with proper oil grade and maintenance for the vehicle it manufactures.

BITOG quickly becoming or has become the Bible and reference manual replacement for OEMs owners manual.


Well said
 
Then there is the whole government mandates anything is a conspiracy to keep us down. Doesn't matter what the karate is as long as the government says it, it is bad. There could be a government mandate that you have to wash every day at 6 am and people would be proclaiming that it does more harm than good and just costs tax payers more money.

Saying you should use fram ulta wether or not one is even made for your application.

You should run x oil for x miles or you are stupidly wasting money.

My oil got dark to quickly.

My oil isn't dark quick enough.

If your car idles rough you should use mmo kroil kreen auto rx accetone and atf tcw3 berryman chemtool blue stabil premium gas regular gas top tier gas av gas no ethanol.......

I just changed my oil to x and now my car runs smoother and feels faster.
 
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Redline Oils are the best because they are most expensive and use POE and POA etc. These Oils are exempt from requiring API ACEA and Vehicle OEM approvals because the OEM approvals are expensive.

The technical position paper on the website written for chemical and automotive engineers vehicle owners absolves approval requirements of any source.
 
One more.

I have 9 jugs of oils in 1 quart size of any brand any grade/weight my vehicle is spec'd for a ??w-30 I need 4.5 quarts.

The 9 x 1 quart jugs have been opened some are over 3 years and vary been one third to three quarter full approx 5.5 quarts in total. None are the same brand or weight.

Can I mix and blend these and use in my vehcile??

Details of vehicle, driving conditions, climte etc mostly unknown.

BITOG response: Mix away and use with confidence.

Justification and proof is our expert resident "?? Bitoger ??" has done this for years and his vehicle has not blown up yet.
 
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Dexos is just a money grab. GM is getting rich off Dexos. Oh the poor little oil companies. Valvoline decided not to pay for the license. Oh, wait now almost every oil company has a Dexos approved oil. Even Supertech.
 
I changed from Pennzoil Ultra to Mobil 1 now the engine noise is louder and the engine whines. Last time I started the vehicle after clunking at start up the engine whining sound settled down to a tune of "We wish you ...........and a Happy New Year" which now I CANT get out of my mind.

What should I do ?
 
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Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Run 0w20/5w20 in a car spec'd for 5w30 and you're a genius.

Run 10w30 in that same car regardless of climate, you're an idiot.

Except as mentioned M1 0w40, you're a genius for running that in about anything.


Nice work !!!
 
I'm using a Fram...
"Oh my God, you'll blow up your engine!"

Ok, I switched to an STP E-Core...
"Oh my God, you'll blow up your engine!"

Fine, I put a Purolator on this time.
"Oh, my God! You'll blow up your engine!"

Nevermind, I'll just take it to Jiffy Lube...

And...

You should change your oil every 3000 miles to protect the warranty, then immediately switch to a 15000 mile OCI once the warranty is up. Only a reckless wasteful moron would argue with this plan.
 
I drive 8 miles to work every day one way, mostly highway, and rarely rally, drag, or baja race my vehicle. Will Mobil 1 synthetic be a good choice for my car for 4-6k oil changes? I don't trust the $12 QSGB for my car under these conditions.
 
I think QSGB is fine in fact. I put 8,500k on a fill of it with a TG filter and I own a lowly 11' Focus with a duratec 2.0 engine. You would be wasting M1 going only 4-6 k in my opinion
 
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