- Joined
- Jul 10, 2022
- Messages
- 3,866
If I'm not mistaken, the battery tender's algorithm goes by voltage. So, if one maintains a bad battery with a tender, and goes to test it, the battery tester uncovers that it still doesn't have the current and needs to be replaced. Don't get me wrong, when we do the good/better/best type of thinking, "REPLACE" doesn't mean if you don't your car is DOA. My Costco battery in the Lexus was just that, I replaced when I got around to it, maybe 6 mos. later. The tester will still show CCA. For example, if our sugar is 101, that's over the limit. 99, fine. But they are essentially the same, know what I mean?thanks for the update about the batteries... about your battery, ever think of getting a battery tender and charging up the battery from time to time? That way you'd save money in the long run with a battery that wouldn't be undercharged for a long period of time resulting in replacement every 2 years.. be cheaper to charge it up instead of buying expensive batteries.. just a thought.
I got this during the pandemic for $126, joke price.
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I always wanted one in case I coded my car, where the electrical should be maintained externally. Just in case something happens, the DME isn't bricked. Like a shop would do or say a car in the showroom with electricals on for people to try.)
I tested it by turning on headlights, rear defrost, and fan blower, and got it up to over 20A. Voltage was clean and clamped down (I think 13.6v). This has to be the case or expensive RV appliances could get fried.
hoping to get around to it within the next day or two, just want it to warm up a little bit.. I have a blower motor here that needs to be installed as well, but then all of a sudden we got this cold spell, thank God it works it just squeals.
