Right on
Another Sludge Engine help Question pls. *w/pics*
- Thread starter jgscott
- Start date
With a solid lifter there inherently is a gap between the lifter/cam - otherwise your valve wouldn't close fully - and there is more with age. So if you don't have good oil flow at the top end the gap causes a click as it cycles. With good oil flow there is enough lubricant between the parts to deaden the sound of the lack of continuous contact between the parts.
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Theoretically, a sludged up engine will already have clogged passenges and lower oil pressure, which is bad for the engine long term.
I would do several very short OCI (Ex: 100 miles) with new the cheapest oil and filter you can find. Check oil on dipstick every 100 miles. Once oil becomes black and sludgy on dipstick, I would change the oil, even if it becomes sludgy at 100 miles on the oil. Repeat process for 5 short oil changes. That should slowly remove a lot of the sludge. Then I would do some engine flushes (perhaps at half strength for the first few, then at full strength). Goal would be to slowly and safely remove the sludge.
I would do several very short OCI (Ex: 100 miles) with new the cheapest oil and filter you can find. Check oil on dipstick every 100 miles. Once oil becomes black and sludgy on dipstick, I would change the oil, even if it becomes sludgy at 100 miles on the oil. Repeat process for 5 short oil changes. That should slowly remove a lot of the sludge. Then I would do some engine flushes (perhaps at half strength for the first few, then at full strength). Goal would be to slowly and safely remove the sludge.
Well it's a collection of grit rather than chunks. Chunk by definition wouldn't get passed the screen right?It's a bit funny to me that there are folks using (I've used it too in multiple cars!) the HPL EC have shown pics of some solid-chunks of crud in their filter but are worried about a flush product doing the same thing. A can of LM engine flush isn't going to "dislodge chunks" and ruin the engine idling it for 15 minutes. I vote as I said above...use the LM Engine Flush, drain, fill with whatever oil you want adding a bottle of the HPL EC, go 2-3K, drain, then go with a normal oil change schedule with whatever oil you like to use.
In any case the EC is much milder than their standard oils anyways. LM engine flush is even more mild if not ineffective on hard deposits. Both probably work dissolving goopy sludge.
You said..
What you are claiming will result in a cam destroying event in minutes. Noise from solid lifters/lash adjusters is a sign of parts needing adjustment and nothing to do with oil pressure. You are describing hydraulic lifters not solids, if what you describe did happen (no oil film) on parts the bearings would also be dry and the engine destroying itself in short order.
My vote would be Rislone for a few oil changes and run HM oils with it. Do that to slowly clean it out or run HPL EC30 if you are so inclined. I have done both, the Rislone cleaned out a decent amount of sludge out. Ran the EC30 and it cleaned it out even more so but the main goal for me running the EC30 was to clean the piston rings not sludge. The sludge cleaning was a bonus. I would be a little hesitant to run the EC30 first as it does clean a bunch of sludge or perhaps swap the filter every 1k miles to help combat this if you want to run it first.
The point was simply that folks around here lose their minds when you say "flush" (or solid additives like MoS2) b/c they are wrorried about solids but then rejoice when you get solids in your filter using HPL EC. It's hilarious to me. The difference with the HPL EC is that it's just a straight-grade oil with a forumation that promotes cleaning (esters) so different than a solvent-based product like the LM Engine Flush.
The difference is that EC is to be used on a 2,000 mile interval vs 10-20 min idle from flush products like LM. The concern is the speed of the cleaning where the release of a lot of material deposits could cause a problem before they were fully dissolved by the flush product.
EC is low-slow. LM is marketed as fast acting. Thankfully LM doesn't really work on hard deposits.
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https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...motor-oil/mobil-1-keeps-engines-running-clean
M1 High Mileage all the way - - - go slow to clean that junk out.
Change oil and filter early - 2-3k tops.
Then change at 5k for each change after.
Yes but your engines never get dirty.
I'd say that W8 was questionable and likely had quite a bit of crud in it when I used the LM product (twice...2x cans each time).
I think the one thing a lot of people can all agree on no matter which way you go to get the results that you want is that eventually we won't need those types of products. We will get to the point where we recognize that we need to do an oil change a little bit sooner and maybe use a little bit higher tier of oil. I'm not against the slow cleaning method or the fast acting one. I see people from both sides doing it the way they think is best but once we get those engines clean then we really don't need to use any of them as much.
Generally the older advice and it is sound advice is that it's better to do it over time. It will gradually clear up on it's on as you do your regular oil changes on time, maybe 3k instead of 5k depending on the type of driving you do.
Generally you could replace 1 qt or 1/2 a qt of oil the next oil change and run something like MMO or similar products for 100-200 miles and drain it and fill it. Personally? I would just use any of the high quality oils available off the shelf and run them for a shorter interval for a few OCI's and take a look back in there. The photo's don't indicate that it's terrible and it doesn't appear to be impacting the performance of the car - let the oil do the work.
Generally you could replace 1 qt or 1/2 a qt of oil the next oil change and run something like MMO or similar products for 100-200 miles and drain it and fill it. Personally? I would just use any of the high quality oils available off the shelf and run them for a shorter interval for a few OCI's and take a look back in there. The photo's don't indicate that it's terrible and it doesn't appear to be impacting the performance of the car - let the oil do the work.
There is also this thought that idling a solvent at a low concentration (LM engine flush for example) for 10-15 mintues is melting away chunks of sludge and I don't think that's how this works. It's going to do something for sure but not sure it's as aggressive as folks here make these products out to be.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Do not run MMO. There are zero benefits.
I agree, was making the statement that it’s just preferable you don’t use anything outside of a regular high quality oil and shorter OCIs.
MMO just a reference to other products and tricks of the trade (Tranny Fluid) that are usually thrown out there.
Just a update. I did a oil change with M1 Extended Performance. Not HM Ext Performance.
Is it specifically the M1 Ext Per High Mileage that I need to use that cleans the best?
Wow…
Interesting… I had a 08 Nissan Altima VQ and it was immaculate with 365,000+ miles on it… I drove the car for 326,000 miles.
My thought here … HPL cleaner with a very good oil…
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
I would personally use cheaper oil and run some shorter intervals. I know others have said to just keep don’t what you’re doing, but I respectfully disagree.
