I would use 5W-50 because it's got Porsche A40 and 15W-50 doesn't. Approvals indicate actual performance, not viscosity or ingredients listed in an SDS. As for 0W-40 vs. 5W-50, use the right one for your application- engine and use.
“5W-50 too much VII” but 0W-40 “Great oil” why?
- Thread starter ammolab
- Start date
I started a thread in the OPE sub forum, there is now a high-quality 20w50 oil for OPE that I’m using in my Hydro-Gear ZT-3100s. There’s also a 10w40 fortified for small engines as well, used in my Kawasaki FR730V.
I think it's BITOG conditioning. Mobil 1 FS Euro 0W-40 has been a popular oil on here for a very long time and rightfully so. It's about the best oil for the value you'll find of a store shelf. It's a jack of all trades, stout enough to handle more stringent European specs while still worthwhile to engine's specing 20 and 30 grade oils. You get the winter rating good to -35°C and an >3.5 cP HTHS @ 300°F. You get 20-30% more ZDDP, it's had group V synthetics used as an additive from time to time, just a good jack of all trades oil. In a brutal KRL test, it only sheared 6% which is up there with some of the boutique oils out there. It's hard not to like that oil.
Then there's oils like Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50 which has shown to shear to a 40 grade pretty easily in the limited UOAs that have been done with it. I think that leaves people to sway against widespread 50 grades.
The quality of the blend(er) is a big part of it. Also, the purpose of that specific oil is a part of it too. M1 Racing 0W-50, for example, is probably catering that high VII load to act as a friction reducer, letting it shear down almost on purpose, to reduce viscous drag in racing.
Different oils formulated for different purposes that people are trying to apply the same blanket mindset to which just doesn't work. I don't think you can compare the two.
Then there's oils like Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50 which has shown to shear to a 40 grade pretty easily in the limited UOAs that have been done with it. I think that leaves people to sway against widespread 50 grades.
The quality of the blend(er) is a big part of it. Also, the purpose of that specific oil is a part of it too. M1 Racing 0W-50, for example, is probably catering that high VII load to act as a friction reducer, letting it shear down almost on purpose, to reduce viscous drag in racing.
Different oils formulated for different purposes that people are trying to apply the same blanket mindset to which just doesn't work. I don't think you can compare the two.
Not to mention the other 5w-40 Euro's.
Some engines, especially those that are operated at high rpm may be more oil pressure dependent than their less performance targeted stable mates.
That doesn’t mean those engines require a corresponding higher hths to keep parts separated.
Redundant hths reduces power and produces heat from fluid friction in the bearings.
VMs or VIIs will temporarily shear in the bearings reducing the oil’s viscosity.
In these cases, the use of VMs is desirable for maximum oil pressure without producing extra heat from fluid friction in the bearings.
Exactly. As RPM increases, the HTHS becomes less important as the crank journals become more centric. That's a big reason why Pro Stock engines can survive at 10,500 RPM on 0W-8 and thinner oil with minimal bearing wear.
I have 5W-50 Mobile 1 in my BMW Motorcycle now. I plan on a UOA after 5000 miles.
- I like Mobil1 0W-40 because it has a great track record (from all the approvals, to the Porsche A40 testing, to the countless good UOAs, to a testimonial by HPL from their lab) and is easy to obtain anywhere. Good oil, at good price, with great availability.
- I like 15W50 for the air-cooled engines, but ran it in liquid-cooled engines too without any issues. Also easy to find, every Wal-Mart has the Mobil version, while Napa has that grade on their store brand oil.
- 5W-50 I also ran in both air-cooled and liquid-cooled engines. Had one instance where a generator's valvetrain became a little noisy after a long hard day of running on Castrol Classic 5W-50. Otherwise no complaints.
- I'm a thickie: about to throw some Delvac Extreme 15W-40 in my Odyssey, which currently has SuperTech 15W-40. While the Pilot is about to get a fresh batch of Amazon Basics 0W-40.
- Ultimate goal is to run Mobil1 0W-40 in everything, but all these nice sales keep getting in the way and prevent my small stash from depleting...
- I like 15W50 for the air-cooled engines, but ran it in liquid-cooled engines too without any issues. Also easy to find, every Wal-Mart has the Mobil version, while Napa has that grade on their store brand oil.
- 5W-50 I also ran in both air-cooled and liquid-cooled engines. Had one instance where a generator's valvetrain became a little noisy after a long hard day of running on Castrol Classic 5W-50. Otherwise no complaints.
- I'm a thickie: about to throw some Delvac Extreme 15W-40 in my Odyssey, which currently has SuperTech 15W-40. While the Pilot is about to get a fresh batch of Amazon Basics 0W-40.
- Ultimate goal is to run Mobil1 0W-40 in everything, but all these nice sales keep getting in the way and prevent my small stash from depleting...
Same here. I have run my share of clearance, well priced oils, but with inflation and not that much to be saved I decided just to stick with the M1 0w40 the price difference is not worth the search and it’s not as fun anymore. , no more dropping in auto parts stores at random ( shell truck and suv was a fun Easter egg hunt for a couple of years, auto zone used to pretty great clearances and that was fun for me getting m1 for a buck a quart..been a while.).
Much like how I have settled on a curly tail grub for white bass fishing, it’s a high percentage hit for my applications.
I believe based on the belief the 0W40 (M1) had a high level of esters included in the formula and along with starting with a great base oil did not require much in the way of VII's (great for GDI engines) . However today , not sure about the 0W40 from Mobil (or anyone else) uses esters to the degree that 0W40 / 0W20 M1 included in their previous oils . SP , GF-6 , D1 / Gen 3 oils are all using new formulas with either less esters or no esters at all in their formulas.
I like the M1 E0-40 because it performed very well in UOA in my vehicles, I can buy it in 12Qt "garage packs" at my local wallyworld for a good bit less than the per QT bottle price and I can use it in my OPE and portable generators as well. I use it in 5 cars, 4 generators, 2 lawnmowers, 2 1200cc 4 stroke jet skies, 2 4 stroke outboards and an inboard boat motor. Just one oil to keep around.
Perhaps this is a dumb question, but why compare 5W-50 to 0W-40? I mean wouldn't 5W-40 vs. 0W-40, or 5W-50 vs. 10W-50 be the better comparison?
Thanks
Thanks
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
There's something different about the latest SP version of Mobil-1 AFE 0w40. The virgin oil poured darker and showed darker than what was drained minutes earlier using Mobil-1EP 10w30.
Since the vehicle was new, my dipstick never showed virgin oil this dark - almost black. I'd call the color very dark brown-amber.
The vehicle used was my former 2004 Chevy Colorado...... 158k. Now 20 years later & owned by grandson, the oil color on the dipstick immediately following an oil change has always been "clear".
Since the vehicle was new, my dipstick never showed virgin oil this dark - almost black. I'd call the color very dark brown-amber.
The vehicle used was my former 2004 Chevy Colorado...... 158k. Now 20 years later & owned by grandson, the oil color on the dipstick immediately following an oil change has always been "clear".
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Do you mean FS? There is no AFE 0W-40.
I feel like there should be.
Similar threads
