2011 Accord, oil & filter choices?

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I just bought a 2011 Accord EX manual over the weekend. I am starting to plan out the oil changes. The local dealer is barely competent, so I wont go there unless I absolutely have to.

I would like to use the recommended 0w-20 weight oil. And I plan on dumping the FF at 50% on the OLM.

I am disappointed that Pennz Ultra has no 0w-20.

So this leaves M1 AFE 0w-20 and Castrol Edge 0w-20.

For oil filters I am planning on using a Pure One or a Napa Gold.

Thoughts and recommendations?
 
The M1 AFE 0w-20 is available in 5qt jugs, at some WalMart's for a reasonable price. Either filter will work fine. I think The Edge is also available at WalMart in 5 qt jugs. Enjoy that Honda
 
There is a lot of 0W-20 oil out there. The AFE and Edge you mentioned, plus Walmart carries Valvoline SynPower in 0W-20. Additionally, you have the OEM trifecta of Honda, Subaru, and Toyota, all producing their own 0W-20 oil (usually blended by Idemitsu, Nippon, or ExxonMobil). Even the ExxonMobil-bottled 0W-20 (for Toyota at least) is not equivalent to Mobil 1 AFE, and contains much more moly.

Toyota's 0W-20, at my local dealership, is priced competitively with AFE at Walmart. Check your local Honda dealer...their price on oil by the quart may surprise you.
 
I don't think you can go wrong with your selections. Any should be great.

Glad to hear you got an MT accord!
 
Originally Posted By: Hermann
The M1 AFE 0w-20 is available in 5qt jugs, at some WalMart's for a reasonable price. Either filter will work fine. I think The Edge is also available at WalMart in 5 qt jugs. Enjoy that Honda


None of our local Walmarts carry any 5-quart jugs of 0W-20, but I've seen various reports of it, including yours, so I hope they all fall into line quickly!
 
I too would go to WM and select M1. I question the plan to go against HONDAs recomendation to change out the factory fill early. Honda uses high levels of Moly and assembly lubes to protect your engine and the oils you mention do not have this level of additives.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Honda uses high levels of Moly and assembly lubes to protect your engine and the oils you mention do not have this level of additives.


No, but we know that Toyota's and Honda's 0W-20 oils do. If he drained his FF and replaced it with Honda's own 0W-20, he'd retrain a high level of moly in the engine.
 
Excellent car. Sooner or later SOPUS will have a 0-20 on the shelves. I think the PureOne in this size is great. I use them over the WIX, which is maybe better constructed but with less surface area.

50% on the OM is fine. Some will nag you that Honda has this magical break in oil with a ton of moly. It does, but at that point (50% MM) you're probably ~4000 miles so you're "broken in" IMO.

I'm not sure if the Honda brand 0-20 is still made by Idemitsu, if it doesn't have that on the back of the bottle it probably doesn't have the moly we're used to seeing and he might as well be using something like the oils he mentioned.
 
Two other thoughts...

When the MM first says 40% you're actually at 49.999%, so if you want to change it at 50% you really need to wait until it says 40%.

At least on my K-series MT Honda the MM system is just a mileage counter that goes to 7500.
 
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Thanks for the advice!! I do not know how the 2011 Honda OLM works, especially since 0w-20 is the only oil listed to use.

Am I correct in assuming that most 0w-20 oils are at least a semi-syn?

I think I will stick with the P1 filter, unless the Bosch Distance Plus are on sale again.

I called the dealer, no discount on oil if you buy a case. $79 for a case of 12 for the Honda 0w-20. I think I will just use the Edge 0w-20 if SOPUS does not get a 0w-20 on the shelves in the next month or so.

I still can not believe SOPUS does not have a 0w-20, especially since more and more manufacturers are using that weight.
 
I also have a 2011 Accord, and mine will be seeing either M1 0w20 or Edge 0w20, depending on the sales I take advantage of. I have alot of PU 5w20 and Synpower 5w20 in my stash that I'm going to use for a summer fill though, but definitely will have 0w20 in it for the colder months.
 
Be aware that 'Honda Genuine' 0W-20 is available in both semi and full syn. My daughter just bought a V6 EX-L but I will be doing the oil changes. I bought the full syn and a six pack of OE filters online just as protection in case of warranty issues. The full syn looks like the real deal as it is SN/GF-5. As an old-time 3000 mile Dino guy, I too am struggling with this insistence of running the FF to 15% which appears to be about 8,000 miles. Do a search as there are some very good threads here recently on Honda engines, factory fills and 0W-20. I'm sure your Honda won't object to fresh oil by 5,000 miles.
Edit: many comments on this board that the new Honda oils are made by CP.
 
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http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=757135

I own an Accord V-6 EX-L. about 15,000 miles. Both the 7th and 8th generation VCM engines have loose fitting rings and and the plugs overheat to the point of needing to be replaced every 12,000 miles even with IRIDIUM NGK's. This is especially true for cylinder # 3 which is off a lot in the ECO mode. The spark plug in cylinder 3 will actually burn off the insulator and it then falls into the cylinder.

Honda has changed heads and engines. Reprogrammed ECM's and no real fix or understanding of the problem. The cars usually burn about 1/2 qt per 2,000 miles and this makes engine service lights come on and many catalytic converters aregetting plugs up from carbon issues.

A massive recall is being looked at as cases are coming towards a verdict. Honda has really messed up and it's unusual for them to do so this badly.

So in the interim here is what has been done in my case:

Told to use combustion cleaner at every oil change.

GRP. III synthetic oil still allows blow by and oil loss. A GRP IV like Royal Purple 5W-20 cuts this down by 2/3. In Europe Honda is using 5W-30 and 0W40 and this issue is not being seen like it is here to lightweight oils.

I am going to use Redline 5W-30 as it is an Ester Grp. V. and retains a 40wt oil charactoristics at even very hot engine temps. and the Honeywell Filtech 15400-PLM-A01 is the only oil filter to go with and document changes or if you have an engine failure they will blame it on your oil filter to be sure.

HOnda says not to extend drains. I have due to this matter chosen to change every 5,000 miles and plugs every year. With combustion cleaner (Sea-Foam at oil change). Additionally, a slower burning feul such as 89 or 91 octane is prudent. Honda says use "at-lest 87 octane". It's a very high compression engine.

Unfortunately with this VCM engine it's pay now or pay later.


Sad but true.
 
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Originally Posted By: bepperb

At least on my K-series MT Honda the MM system is just a mileage counter that goes to 7500.


It is not a mileage counter if yours has the maintenance minder system. And even if it was, the K-series always had the light illuminate at 10k since all 01+ 4-cyl Hondas were on the 5/10k schedule.

So, does your 06 show have an oil life percentage remaining? If so, then the software actively monitors the operating conditions. It just so happens that your driving conditions result in a 7500 mile interval.
 
Originally Posted By: Pete591
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?p=757135

I own an Accord V-6 EX-L. about 15,000 miles. Both the 7th and 8th generation VCM engines have loose fitting rings and and the plugs overheat to the point of needing to be replaced every 12,000 miles even with IRIDIUM NGK's. This is especially true for cylinder # 3 which is off a lot in the ECO mode. The spark plug in cylinder 3 will actually burn off the insulator and it then falls into the cylinder.

Honda has changed heads and engines. Reprogrammed ECM's and no real fix or understanding of the problem. The cars usually burn about 1/2 qt per 2,000 miles and this makes engine service lights come on and many catalytic converters aregetting plugs up from carbon issues.

A massive recall is being looked at as cases are coming towards a verdict. Honda has really messed up and it's unusual for them to do so this badly.

So in the interim here is what has been done in my case:

Told to use combustion cleaner at every oil change.

GRP. III synthetic oil still allows blow by and oil loss. A GRP IV like Royal Purple 5W-20 cuts this down by 2/3. In Europe Honda is using 5W-30 and 0W40 and this issue is not being seen like it is here to lightweight oils.

I am going to use Redline 5W-30 as it is an Ester Grp. V. and retains a 40wt oil charactoristics at even very hot engine temps. and the Honeywell Filtech 15400-PLM-A01 is the only oil filter to go with and document changes or if you have an engine failure they will blame it on your oil filter to be sure.

HOnda says not to extend drains. I have due to this matter chosen to change every 5,000 miles and plugs every year. With combustion cleaner (Sea-Foam at oil change). Additionally, a slower burning feul such as 89 or 91 octane is prudent. Honda says use "at-lest 87 octane". It's a very high compression engine.

Unfortunately with this VCM engine it's pay now or pay later.


Sad but true.





Which is why I got the 190 hp four cylinder!! I have heard too many horror stories about the V6. That and you can not get a manual with the V6 in the sedan. I have heard of nothing bad about the K24Z3 in the EX sedans.
 
Congrats on the Manual Accord. I have an 09 Coupe 2.4/M5 EX-L. Love the mileage, am running 5-20 QSAD and Pure 1 on 4 to 5K OCI's. Have about 21K now.....
 
Quote:
Both the 7th and 8th generation VCM engines have loose fitting rings and and the plugs overheat to the point of needing to be replaced every 12,000 miles even with IRIDIUM NGK's.


You'd think they'd change the plugs to two steps colder. I suppose that's to easy.
 
My car requires 0w20 as well. When it comes time to change out the FF I have Mobil 1 0w20 and a PureOne filter ready to go. Unfortunately the max OCI I can go is 7500 miles but it should be cake for the oil/filter combo.
 
sorry to hear of the issues Pete
You are still in warranty so don't use the 5-30, as it is not a recommended grade. They may raise this as an issue if you do have engine problems in the future. Maybe it will be like their trannies where they did a lot of repairs out of warranty?


Steve
 
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