are SAE sockets/wrenches necessary? i have only metric stuff, but they sell SAE, is there any reason for me to buy SAE wrenches/sockets, as even the taurus, or modern domestics use metric stuff, are sae only for the older/classic domestic cars? any point in getting sae tools, do i need them or no, i'm fine with metric only?
2003 Toyota Camry Suspension Issues
- Thread starter engineer20
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: engineer20
are SAE sockets/wrenches necessary? i have only metric stuff, but they sell SAE, is there any reason for me to buy SAE wrenches/sockets, as even the taurus, or modern domestics use metric stuff, are sae only for the older/classic domestic cars? any point in getting sae tools, do i need them or no, i'm fine with metric only?
Just get a nice crescent wrench and use it for everything - no need for anything else. Harbor Freight might have a special - just get the cheapest one possible and use a 20% coupon.
are SAE sockets/wrenches necessary? i have only metric stuff, but they sell SAE, is there any reason for me to buy SAE wrenches/sockets, as even the taurus, or modern domestics use metric stuff, are sae only for the older/classic domestic cars? any point in getting sae tools, do i need them or no, i'm fine with metric only?
Just get a nice crescent wrench and use it for everything - no need for anything else. Harbor Freight might have a special - just get the cheapest one possible and use a 20% coupon.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: engineer20
if u guys say my post from the previous thread, when i was working on the ball joint, i took the knuckle out by accident and nearly removed the front strut, so i roughly know how to do it, with a quick strut, but the rears, you must take the seat out.
i have a 1/2 drive beaker bar as well as an extendable 1/2 inch drive ratchet from harbor freight, i bought the set beucase i need regular 3/8 drive 6 pt sockets, the deep sockets are 6 pt but the regular non deep sockets are 12 pt at harbor freight so even without the ratchet, the sockets alone are good enough
and yes, this craftman, is made in china, unfortunately, but isn't the quality supposed to be similar since it's designed in the US? i remember using the 1/2 drive ratchet as well as my long wrench set i bought at h freight to remove those 2 strut bolts, so I knwo I can do it. I have a roundhead avg 3/8 drive husky ratchet that i've used for a while, but i have a flex head 3/8 long ratchet from h freight i recently bought, that helped me remove the stuck caliper bolt! so being long really helped, but i just also happened to want another 3/8 ratchet (regular) in case the husky one goes out, and it doesn't hurt to have 2, as I saw, u use the hex bit socket instead of a hex key when removing the stabilizer bar, with just the hex key, you can strip it, as i did with the front one when replacing the ball joint, so now I have to cut the old stab link off, and replace it in the front right, but with a hex key and 2 ratchets, you can easily remove it, so having 2 regular 3/8 isn't bad and I can use one as a backup or some jobs require 2 ratchets, and with the strut, you can use a wrench and a ratchet to remove those bolts that connect it with the steering knuckle, or you can use 2 ratchets, or a ratchet and a breaker bar, so it doesn't hurt to have 2
i also inspected my struts, I think the left rear is leaking, the other struts are dry, but my left rear had this greasy residue at that part below the spring, where the strut turns straight, so that's a leaky strut right? it's roughly in the "center" of the overall strut, where the spring basically ends, is where leaks usually occur, right? Thanks.
Reading these huge walls of text from engineer20 makes my eyes go wild. Feels like I'm having a stroke. Anybody else?
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Originally Posted By: engineer20
if u guys say my post from the previous thread, when i was working on the ball joint, i took the knuckle out by accident and nearly removed the front strut, so i roughly know how to do it, with a quick strut, but the rears, you must take the seat out.
i have a 1/2 drive beaker bar as well as an extendable 1/2 inch drive ratchet from harbor freight, i bought the set beucase i need regular 3/8 drive 6 pt sockets, the deep sockets are 6 pt but the regular non deep sockets are 12 pt at harbor freight so even without the ratchet, the sockets alone are good enough
and yes, this craftman, is made in china, unfortunately, but isn't the quality supposed to be similar since it's designed in the US? i remember using the 1/2 drive ratchet as well as my long wrench set i bought at h freight to remove those 2 strut bolts, so I knwo I can do it. I have a roundhead avg 3/8 drive husky ratchet that i've used for a while, but i have a flex head 3/8 long ratchet from h freight i recently bought, that helped me remove the stuck caliper bolt! so being long really helped, but i just also happened to want another 3/8 ratchet (regular) in case the husky one goes out, and it doesn't hurt to have 2, as I saw, u use the hex bit socket instead of a hex key when removing the stabilizer bar, with just the hex key, you can strip it, as i did with the front one when replacing the ball joint, so now I have to cut the old stab link off, and replace it in the front right, but with a hex key and 2 ratchets, you can easily remove it, so having 2 regular 3/8 isn't bad and I can use one as a backup or some jobs require 2 ratchets, and with the strut, you can use a wrench and a ratchet to remove those bolts that connect it with the steering knuckle, or you can use 2 ratchets, or a ratchet and a breaker bar, so it doesn't hurt to have 2
i also inspected my struts, I think the left rear is leaking, the other struts are dry, but my left rear had this greasy residue at that part below the spring, where the strut turns straight, so that's a leaky strut right? it's roughly in the "center" of the overall strut, where the spring basically ends, is where leaks usually occur, right? Thanks.
Reading these huge walls of text from engineer20 makes my eyes go wild. Feels like I'm having a stroke. Anybody else?
+12345678901234567890
Originally Posted By: engineer20
are SAE sockets/wrenches necessary? i have only metric stuff, but they sell SAE, is there any reason for me to buy SAE wrenches/sockets, as even the taurus, or modern domestics use metric stuff, are sae only for the older/classic domestic cars? any point in getting sae tools, do i need them or no, i'm fine with metric only?
Just when I was starting to think you were sincerely looking for help you post this.
are SAE sockets/wrenches necessary? i have only metric stuff, but they sell SAE, is there any reason for me to buy SAE wrenches/sockets, as even the taurus, or modern domestics use metric stuff, are sae only for the older/classic domestic cars? any point in getting sae tools, do i need them or no, i'm fine with metric only?
Just when I was starting to think you were sincerely looking for help you post this.
Engineer, have you tried buying parts online? Rockauto has everything you need.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
I like quality and care about that the most, as in if it's made abroad and has higher or comparable quality, i'll take that.
Oh bull.
If you actually did care about quality, you would only ever buy OEM parts for your car, and only go to the dealer to buy them.
Nice try though with adding more question marks to your wall of text, however.
BC.
I like quality and care about that the most, as in if it's made abroad and has higher or comparable quality, i'll take that.
Oh bull.
If you actually did care about quality, you would only ever buy OEM parts for your car, and only go to the dealer to buy them.
Nice try though with adding more question marks to your wall of text, however.
BC.
@bladecutter, but MOOGS are good right? I care about quality and price, also, I heard oem wasn't always the best, good aftermarkets like kyb for struts or even monroe, or moogs for suspension components (much cheaper than the dealer, and they got annooyed with me and told me not to return unless i buy parts) but with prices being 2x higher, moogs seem decent and that's what belle tire uses, and though some are dishonest, belle tire is a reputable chain.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
For those who don't like to read, no [censored]. How are moog made in USA bushings? The normal current ones are made in India, but one Advance had an old looking box of bushings, but it was unopened and it was made in the USA. Is the made in USA one better despite being older, or no, as older=bad rubber, as rubber breaks down after its manufacture over time? Or not much of a difference, since rubber is rubber, doesn't matter if it's made in India or in the US, other than in the US, you're supporting local jobs, and as much as I like supporting the US economy, I like quality and care about that the most, as in if it's made abroad and has higher or comparable quality, i'll take that.
Between the 2 I'd pick the USA one over the India / China one, because the USA one is more likely to be higher quality and OEM while the India / China one is likely to be the same as other brand and non OEM.
Now if you are buying it for a car made in India or China, I'd do the opposite.
For those who don't like to read, no [censored]. How are moog made in USA bushings? The normal current ones are made in India, but one Advance had an old looking box of bushings, but it was unopened and it was made in the USA. Is the made in USA one better despite being older, or no, as older=bad rubber, as rubber breaks down after its manufacture over time? Or not much of a difference, since rubber is rubber, doesn't matter if it's made in India or in the US, other than in the US, you're supporting local jobs, and as much as I like supporting the US economy, I like quality and care about that the most, as in if it's made abroad and has higher or comparable quality, i'll take that.
Between the 2 I'd pick the USA one over the India / China one, because the USA one is more likely to be higher quality and OEM while the India / China one is likely to be the same as other brand and non OEM.
Now if you are buying it for a car made in India or China, I'd do the opposite.
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: engineer20
are SAE sockets/wrenches necessary? i have only metric stuff, but they sell SAE, is there any reason for me to buy SAE wrenches/sockets, as even the taurus, or modern domestics use metric stuff, are sae only for the older/classic domestic cars? any point in getting sae tools, do i need them or no, i'm fine with metric only?
Just when I was starting to think you were sincerely looking for help you post this.
To E20: No, if your car has no SAE bolts, you don't need SAE sockets.
Artbuc: E20 is making some progress here, at least he is finally asking the right question after many tries.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
are SAE sockets/wrenches necessary? i have only metric stuff, but they sell SAE, is there any reason for me to buy SAE wrenches/sockets, as even the taurus, or modern domestics use metric stuff, are sae only for the older/classic domestic cars? any point in getting sae tools, do i need them or no, i'm fine with metric only?
Just when I was starting to think you were sincerely looking for help you post this.
To E20: No, if your car has no SAE bolts, you don't need SAE sockets.
Artbuc: E20 is making some progress here, at least he is finally asking the right question after many tries.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
@bladecutter, but MOOGS are good right? I care about quality and price, also, I heard oem wasn't always the best, good aftermarkets like kyb for struts or even monroe, or moogs for suspension components (much cheaper than the dealer, and they got annooyed with me and told me not to return unless i buy parts) but with prices being 2x higher, moogs seem decent and that's what belle tire uses, and though some are dishonest, belle tire is a reputable chain.
First off: what do you mean GOOD?
You can have a very decent OEM bushing for a Ford Focus that has the same size as Mazda5, and you press it in the Mazda5 control arm and it would break up in 1 month, or you can have an aftermarket Mazda5 bushing that you press into Mazda5 control arm and last 15 years.
OEM buy a lot of stuff, and they test them and know right away what works and what doesn't, and their vendor fix the problems right away or lose their contracts.
Aftermarket sometimes do not test enough to know the problems, or they see OEM design's problem and they fix it and sell under their own brands. You have to look at it on a case by case basis.
In general, you can find out what works the best by going to the forum about the car you have, or trust OEM doing their jobs when they sell the parts that they also use to build the cars.
@bladecutter, but MOOGS are good right? I care about quality and price, also, I heard oem wasn't always the best, good aftermarkets like kyb for struts or even monroe, or moogs for suspension components (much cheaper than the dealer, and they got annooyed with me and told me not to return unless i buy parts) but with prices being 2x higher, moogs seem decent and that's what belle tire uses, and though some are dishonest, belle tire is a reputable chain.
First off: what do you mean GOOD?
You can have a very decent OEM bushing for a Ford Focus that has the same size as Mazda5, and you press it in the Mazda5 control arm and it would break up in 1 month, or you can have an aftermarket Mazda5 bushing that you press into Mazda5 control arm and last 15 years.
OEM buy a lot of stuff, and they test them and know right away what works and what doesn't, and their vendor fix the problems right away or lose their contracts.
Aftermarket sometimes do not test enough to know the problems, or they see OEM design's problem and they fix it and sell under their own brands. You have to look at it on a case by case basis.
In general, you can find out what works the best by going to the forum about the car you have, or trust OEM doing their jobs when they sell the parts that they also use to build the cars.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
@bladecutter, but MOOGS are good right? I care about quality and price, also, I heard oem wasn't always the best
How many miles did the OEM part last on your car that you are thinking about replacing?
If this new replacement part lasts the same exact amount of miles after you replace it, would you think you have gotten your money's worth out of the new replacement part?
Here's the real important thing when it comes to replacement parts:
OEM parts will ALWAYS fit your car, as long as you get the right part.
When you buy a part from your dealer, they can look up the VIN of your car, and should be able to guarantee that the part they give you is exactly the right part.
The part is built to their original specs, or, if there was a change, you get the newer, better spec part.
With aftermarket parts, none of this is guaranteed.
So, OEM will always work, and will at least be as good as the original part you installed on your car.
And since we are talking about a suspension component for a stock Toyota Camry, there is no reason why I would recommend ANYTHING ELSE on the market over the OEM part from Toyota. You're not trying to cure a factory defect, you're just replacing a worn out part.
At the end of the day, you can go and buy whatever brand parts and tools you want, and I couldn't care less, it's not my car, and I'm never going to buy it from you in the future. If it were my car I were fixing, I would go to the dealer, and get the part from there, and that would be the end of the story.
Also, the tools in my garage here in Colorado are Craftsman, along with the tools that are sitting in my sister's garage in NYC. The tools that are in NYC were bought back in 1993, and the tools I have here were bought in 2006. That's all I'm going to tell you on tools, as I have no further opinion to offer you on this topic. Craftsman tools will do the job you need done, and that's the end of the story.
BC.
@bladecutter, but MOOGS are good right? I care about quality and price, also, I heard oem wasn't always the best
How many miles did the OEM part last on your car that you are thinking about replacing?
If this new replacement part lasts the same exact amount of miles after you replace it, would you think you have gotten your money's worth out of the new replacement part?
Here's the real important thing when it comes to replacement parts:
OEM parts will ALWAYS fit your car, as long as you get the right part.
When you buy a part from your dealer, they can look up the VIN of your car, and should be able to guarantee that the part they give you is exactly the right part.
The part is built to their original specs, or, if there was a change, you get the newer, better spec part.
With aftermarket parts, none of this is guaranteed.
So, OEM will always work, and will at least be as good as the original part you installed on your car.
And since we are talking about a suspension component for a stock Toyota Camry, there is no reason why I would recommend ANYTHING ELSE on the market over the OEM part from Toyota. You're not trying to cure a factory defect, you're just replacing a worn out part.
At the end of the day, you can go and buy whatever brand parts and tools you want, and I couldn't care less, it's not my car, and I'm never going to buy it from you in the future. If it were my car I were fixing, I would go to the dealer, and get the part from there, and that would be the end of the story.
Also, the tools in my garage here in Colorado are Craftsman, along with the tools that are sitting in my sister's garage in NYC. The tools that are in NYC were bought back in 1993, and the tools I have here were bought in 2006. That's all I'm going to tell you on tools, as I have no further opinion to offer you on this topic. Craftsman tools will do the job you need done, and that's the end of the story.
BC.
Thanks. I just picked up the bushings for the control arms which came in yesterday. They were made in Japan, yes! japan, though geographically close to China and India, makes products better than the US oftentimes, like its cars and electronics, so if the part is made in Japan ,that's better right? As in the Japan made toyotas were better than the US made, though the US made ones are still pretty good. For the control arm bushing, which was a factory direct orrder and just came in yesterady but I picked them up earlier tonight. So I guess I'll get the made in USA moog bushings even if they are older.
I won't replace them yet, but I bought them for 25 each after tax, with speedperks, so I'll replace them when the time comes, wrap them up in plastic, and save for when I need to, or should I do it now as PREVENTATIVE maintenance at almost 170k? does it hurt to put these bushings in now, and have that shop i mentioend earlier press them in for me on both sides, or wait till they truly go bad, maybe after 200k?
I won't replace them yet, but I bought them for 25 each after tax, with speedperks, so I'll replace them when the time comes, wrap them up in plastic, and save for when I need to, or should I do it now as PREVENTATIVE maintenance at almost 170k? does it hurt to put these bushings in now, and have that shop i mentioend earlier press them in for me on both sides, or wait till they truly go bad, maybe after 200k?
"What are the chances of the OP following my advice?"
You guys should be asking yourselves that question !
You guys should be asking yourselves that question !
Originally Posted By: engineer20
Thanks. I just picked up the bushings for the control arms which came in yesterday. They were made in Japan, yes! japan, though geographically close to China and India, makes products better than the US oftentimes, like its cars and electronics, so if the part is made in Japan ,that's better right? As in the Japan made toyotas were better than the US made, though the US made ones are still pretty good. For the control arm bushing, which was a factory direct orrder and just came in yesterady but I picked them up earlier tonight. So I guess I'll get the made in USA moog bushings even if they are older.
I won't replace them yet, but I bought them for 25 each after tax, with speedperks, so I'll replace them when the time comes, wrap them up in plastic, and save for when I need to, or should I do it now as PREVENTATIVE maintenance at almost 170k? does it hurt to put these bushings in now, and have that shop i mentioend earlier press them in for me on both sides, or wait till they truly go bad, maybe after 200k?
Hey E20, help me out here. You picked up your special order control arm bushings and are happy because they are made in Japan. But, you "guess" you will get the made in USA Moog control arm bushings even though they are older. Then you say you do not even need them and want to know how to store them. And you expect anyone to take you seriously?
Thanks. I just picked up the bushings for the control arms which came in yesterday. They were made in Japan, yes! japan, though geographically close to China and India, makes products better than the US oftentimes, like its cars and electronics, so if the part is made in Japan ,that's better right? As in the Japan made toyotas were better than the US made, though the US made ones are still pretty good. For the control arm bushing, which was a factory direct orrder and just came in yesterady but I picked them up earlier tonight. So I guess I'll get the made in USA moog bushings even if they are older.
I won't replace them yet, but I bought them for 25 each after tax, with speedperks, so I'll replace them when the time comes, wrap them up in plastic, and save for when I need to, or should I do it now as PREVENTATIVE maintenance at almost 170k? does it hurt to put these bushings in now, and have that shop i mentioend earlier press them in for me on both sides, or wait till they truly go bad, maybe after 200k?
Hey E20, help me out here. You picked up your special order control arm bushings and are happy because they are made in Japan. But, you "guess" you will get the made in USA Moog control arm bushings even though they are older. Then you say you do not even need them and want to know how to store them. And you expect anyone to take you seriously?
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Just because E20 is asking inane questions does not mean they need to be responded to. I am noticing only few of you are replying, one seriously and all other sarcastically. Neither is working. The only thing which *may* work is total electronic silence. Rest of us have already bailed out or at least trying our best not to get dragged in.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Just because E20 is asking inane questions does not mean they need to be responded to. I am noticing only few of you are replying, one seriously and all other sarcastically. Neither is working. The only thing which *may* work is total electronic silence. Rest of us have already bailed out or at least trying our best not to get dragged in.
Of course you are right. I have sworn off twice and jumped back in gively E20 the attention he is so desperately seeking. Hopefully I can abstain this time without the help of a 12 Step program.
Just because E20 is asking inane questions does not mean they need to be responded to. I am noticing only few of you are replying, one seriously and all other sarcastically. Neither is working. The only thing which *may* work is total electronic silence. Rest of us have already bailed out or at least trying our best not to get dragged in.
Of course you are right. I have sworn off twice and jumped back in gively E20 the attention he is so desperately seeking. Hopefully I can abstain this time without the help of a 12 Step program.
E20, I'm surprised you haven't been banned from the various Autozones, O'reily's, ect.. that you haunt. Why not just get a nice mountain bike to get around? Steel is better for pot holes but aluminum frames are longer lasting and faster I'm not sure which is better Although a friend of mine said you can get a ticket on a bike it's Spring now so last years inventory should be discounted of course you can always buy a quality used bike on graiglist although you have to be careful cause it could be stolen If you are somewhat physically fit you should be able to commute at least 10 miles a day on a bike it would save you a ton of gas money it seems like gas prices are getting higher so you may be able to carpool to work if you can't ride a bike?
I'm storing the CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS, I am REPLACING the sway bar bushings. The Cont arm was made in japan/special orderred. The sway bar ones are in stock, one was made in USA but older, and the rest were from India, I haven't bought that one yet, but I have bought the japanese control arm bushings.
Said I'd store the control arm bushings, but my question was, DOES IT HURT to change them out now near 170k as preventative maintenance or don't?
Yesterday, I went to a U pull in junkyard nearby, and I risked it because they dont' tell you what's in there! I would see 97-99 camrys often, but rarely my camry, but I paid the dollar to get in (not that bad, like buying a lotto ticket that i know i'll lose money on, but this time, I "won") because there was an 02 camry there! I pulled off a wheel from it, as well as a bumper cover. The camry is black, and my rear bumper cover is cracked, so I'll replace that. I destroyed those plastic rivets that hold the bumper in, so I guess get the ones from the dealer or from oreilly's/parts stores? I kept the old broken ones as referenceing for dimensioning so i can get aftermarket ones which are cheaper. Ripping it off was easy becasue it's a U pull it and the bumper as already half off when I started since the tailight was ripped off as well as some other stuff, now it's the intallation which may be hard, and I"ll do that later.
Anyways, I got one wheel with tire off, but I wanted to get a second. The wheels are in perfect condition! This junkyard dosdn't tell you mileage, but I saw an oil change sticker from october of 2015 saying 199k, so I bet the car has around 200k on it, and for 200k, the car was in good condition! I looked at a lot of the suspension compoennts. I wanted to rip off a stabilizer link since it's oem, but i saw one of the boots was torn. I also saw the control arm, which I considered, but only took the wheel and bumper cover, and plan to maybe return again tomorrow for about an hour or so after work (it's nearby) and because of DST they begin summer hours so it's open to 6 now, rather than 4:30. I can post this picture of the control arm. My control arm was similar, in that the bushing isn't straight, it was sagging when I jacked it up, is this normal? I see some tears on it, it's from the JUNKAYRD, NOT MY CAMRY, and I saw the struts were also semi leaky, not in good condition, but I plan to rip a strut off and maybe reinstall it, so I can know the process, the back seat is already partially torn off, as in it's torn off, but wasn't taken away, so that may make things easier.
Also, I can't take the axle nut off, because the trans and engine have been removed, i wanted to pull an engine pan but it didn't have it, but I saw this rod that went to what was left of the transmission was spinning. So the axle nut doesn't come off since the whole hub spins. if the trans was in the car, it'd stop it from spinning, but because there's only a rod left, that resistance is gone and the rod spins with the axle nut, but I saw someone using a pipe wrench on round things, so have somone hold that rod that I see left in thwere the trans is, and then hold it with a pipe wrench, while I try to take the axle nut off? or what other advice do you have given this dilemna? I want to maybe remove the steering knuckle, but I think it's risky as it was rusty and could also have a bad wheel bearing! If I get a junkyard steering knuckle, i think it's better NOT to go to a u pull it, since the ones with the parts on the shelves, often have the parts tested, so they are good parts. BUT, I think while I might not get anything else from this car, it's a good car to practice on, as in pay the dollar, pratcice on the rear strusts, pratcie with the rear stabilizer bar links bushings, and also with the hex thing on the oem stab bar, I think a hex key is too weak and may round, and I didn't bring penetrating oil to the junkyard! next time, I"ll bring it next time. but the stabilizer link, I tried my hex key, which was in my tool bag I brought in, but it didn't work, it would round, so you need a socket. it's 5.5 mm, so I guess I'll buy a hex socket (do you recommend 1/4 or 3/8 drive for this) and now that I have that craftsman 3/8 ratchet as well as my normal husky 3/8 roundhead ratchet, I can use 2 ratchets to remove the oem stab links to get to the strut and control amrm and steering knuckle.
If you remove a part and don't buy it, should you reinstall it, or do you not have to? I see many parts in the trunk (ruined, unfortunately becasue it rained and the trunk was open), BUT I moved them to the backseat, since the windows are on the car, so if it rains those parts the other people pulled off but didn't use/buy will be saved, otherwise, if you leave them in the rain, they'll be ruined, as I saw an alternator from that car drenched in rainwater, sadly yesterday, so is it OK or acceptable and is it proper junkyard etiquette to put parts you pulled but aren't buyuing INSIDE the car? You could put it in the turnk, but that isn't proper junkyard etiquette which may ruin the part due to rain, OR should you reinstall it and put the part back in, for proper etiquettte?
I also need a tailight, since my rear one has some cracks and I used tailight tape on the rear left, but they only had the right side one! the left was already pulled off
but I think it's better to not go to a u pull it for a steering knuckel. i see belle tire papers from last year and last year, they said it was the left wheel bearing, and this year, they said the same, whereas some times, belle tire, didn't say anything about my wheel bearings and said they were fine.
The car makes a slight roaring noise when I turn left, so it that the left one? my plan was to get a junkyard steering knuckle, left, and install it, and see if the noise goes away, if so, i'm all set, if not, it's not the wheel bearing and it's something else, OR the junkyard steering knuckel also has a bad bearing, in this case, I have 30 days to return it in case the part does work, but if you go to a one where it's on the shelf and isn't a u pull it, the parts generally are ok and working.
Said I'd store the control arm bushings, but my question was, DOES IT HURT to change them out now near 170k as preventative maintenance or don't?
Yesterday, I went to a U pull in junkyard nearby, and I risked it because they dont' tell you what's in there! I would see 97-99 camrys often, but rarely my camry, but I paid the dollar to get in (not that bad, like buying a lotto ticket that i know i'll lose money on, but this time, I "won") because there was an 02 camry there! I pulled off a wheel from it, as well as a bumper cover. The camry is black, and my rear bumper cover is cracked, so I'll replace that. I destroyed those plastic rivets that hold the bumper in, so I guess get the ones from the dealer or from oreilly's/parts stores? I kept the old broken ones as referenceing for dimensioning so i can get aftermarket ones which are cheaper. Ripping it off was easy becasue it's a U pull it and the bumper as already half off when I started since the tailight was ripped off as well as some other stuff, now it's the intallation which may be hard, and I"ll do that later.
Anyways, I got one wheel with tire off, but I wanted to get a second. The wheels are in perfect condition! This junkyard dosdn't tell you mileage, but I saw an oil change sticker from october of 2015 saying 199k, so I bet the car has around 200k on it, and for 200k, the car was in good condition! I looked at a lot of the suspension compoennts. I wanted to rip off a stabilizer link since it's oem, but i saw one of the boots was torn. I also saw the control arm, which I considered, but only took the wheel and bumper cover, and plan to maybe return again tomorrow for about an hour or so after work (it's nearby) and because of DST they begin summer hours so it's open to 6 now, rather than 4:30. I can post this picture of the control arm. My control arm was similar, in that the bushing isn't straight, it was sagging when I jacked it up, is this normal? I see some tears on it, it's from the JUNKAYRD, NOT MY CAMRY, and I saw the struts were also semi leaky, not in good condition, but I plan to rip a strut off and maybe reinstall it, so I can know the process, the back seat is already partially torn off, as in it's torn off, but wasn't taken away, so that may make things easier.
Also, I can't take the axle nut off, because the trans and engine have been removed, i wanted to pull an engine pan but it didn't have it, but I saw this rod that went to what was left of the transmission was spinning. So the axle nut doesn't come off since the whole hub spins. if the trans was in the car, it'd stop it from spinning, but because there's only a rod left, that resistance is gone and the rod spins with the axle nut, but I saw someone using a pipe wrench on round things, so have somone hold that rod that I see left in thwere the trans is, and then hold it with a pipe wrench, while I try to take the axle nut off? or what other advice do you have given this dilemna? I want to maybe remove the steering knuckle, but I think it's risky as it was rusty and could also have a bad wheel bearing! If I get a junkyard steering knuckle, i think it's better NOT to go to a u pull it, since the ones with the parts on the shelves, often have the parts tested, so they are good parts. BUT, I think while I might not get anything else from this car, it's a good car to practice on, as in pay the dollar, pratcice on the rear strusts, pratcie with the rear stabilizer bar links bushings, and also with the hex thing on the oem stab bar, I think a hex key is too weak and may round, and I didn't bring penetrating oil to the junkyard! next time, I"ll bring it next time. but the stabilizer link, I tried my hex key, which was in my tool bag I brought in, but it didn't work, it would round, so you need a socket. it's 5.5 mm, so I guess I'll buy a hex socket (do you recommend 1/4 or 3/8 drive for this) and now that I have that craftsman 3/8 ratchet as well as my normal husky 3/8 roundhead ratchet, I can use 2 ratchets to remove the oem stab links to get to the strut and control amrm and steering knuckle.
If you remove a part and don't buy it, should you reinstall it, or do you not have to? I see many parts in the trunk (ruined, unfortunately becasue it rained and the trunk was open), BUT I moved them to the backseat, since the windows are on the car, so if it rains those parts the other people pulled off but didn't use/buy will be saved, otherwise, if you leave them in the rain, they'll be ruined, as I saw an alternator from that car drenched in rainwater, sadly yesterday, so is it OK or acceptable and is it proper junkyard etiquette to put parts you pulled but aren't buyuing INSIDE the car? You could put it in the turnk, but that isn't proper junkyard etiquette which may ruin the part due to rain, OR should you reinstall it and put the part back in, for proper etiquettte?
I also need a tailight, since my rear one has some cracks and I used tailight tape on the rear left, but they only had the right side one! the left was already pulled off
but I think it's better to not go to a u pull it for a steering knuckel. i see belle tire papers from last year and last year, they said it was the left wheel bearing, and this year, they said the same, whereas some times, belle tire, didn't say anything about my wheel bearings and said they were fine.
The car makes a slight roaring noise when I turn left, so it that the left one? my plan was to get a junkyard steering knuckle, left, and install it, and see if the noise goes away, if so, i'm all set, if not, it's not the wheel bearing and it's something else, OR the junkyard steering knuckel also has a bad bearing, in this case, I have 30 days to return it in case the part does work, but if you go to a one where it's on the shelf and isn't a u pull it, the parts generally are ok and working.
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also, the rear tires on the junkyard camry were bald, it the tires are bald, they only charge you for the rim, but I wanted one of the back rims since the rims are in perfect condition, but when I removed the lug nuts, the rim wouldn't come off and I hit it with a hammer and kicked it and it still wouldn't come off! why is this? spray benetrating oil? What other advice?
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