any recommendation or thoughts on buying a new versus reconditioned alternator?
also, autozone, napa, o'reilly, where would you go?
also, autozone, napa, o'reilly, where would you go?
2002 ford v6 escape: replacing alternator...
- Thread starter mikeinaustin
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its really not that difficult. I've seen techs go from start to finish in under an hour. We usually have our brake/front end techs replace these alternators.
But that's not the point... It shouldn't be this "involved" It's a wearable part and should be easy to get at!
i believe the shop manual specifies it as a 2.5 hr job. i can see it being done in an hour, but only by someone who does them pretty much every week.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
But that's not the point... It shouldn't be this "involved" It's a wearable part and should be easy to get at!
kinda like the awesome idea GM had for starter placement on the Northstar?
But that's not the point... It shouldn't be this "involved" It's a wearable part and should be easy to get at!
kinda like the awesome idea GM had for starter placement on the Northstar?
Not familiar with this engine enough to comment...
You don't want to have to replace any drive accessory on my Corolla...what a nightmare!
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Not bad, Ford was using quick disconnects on the alternators in the 80's
That was a pretty bad idea. Bolt terminal is much better.
Not bad, Ford was using quick disconnects on the alternators in the 80's
That was a pretty bad idea. Bolt terminal is much better.
I think that Escape uses a similar engine to what my Contour had, some variety of the Duratech. If so, yeah, the alternator is a pain in the donkey to replace. On the other hand, mine lasted a good 8 years, 130,000 miles, and only died because its case cracked. Probably because of a freak casting flaw or something hitting it. And actually, I only replaced it because I knew it was cracked, not because it had quit working.
The alternator was located at about the 8 oclock position on the engine, if you are looking at it from the "front" of the engine, the accessory-belt side. And that's right where the driveshaft and tie rods are. It took me a long afternoon, but I was able to get it out without pulling all that stuff out. Just took a while to get the right angles on it. I think I had to "pop" it past an obstruction with a crowbar.
And, quite frankly, even if you have to do all that stuff, it's not really that difficult with $40 worth of tools from Harbor Freight. Popping off a tie-rod is dead easy with a jaw puller, and the drive shaft comes out of the hub assembly pretty easily- I had to change that too, and that job took like 3 hours. It only gets difficult if the car is held together with rust. The hardest part of the job was getting the diety-darned pully off the old alternator. I had to admit defeat and bring it to Pep Boys and ask them to pop it off with a torque wrench. Took them all of a second...
Why put the alternator down there when its a "wear" part? First, it's the kind of thing you only ever have to do once or twice for the life of the vehicle. Especially if you know ahead of time that it is a bit of a hassle, you know to buy a NEW Motorcraft unit instead of a reman. Second, because that engine is DOHC, the top of the engine is huge and there's just no room for an alternator up there.
The alternator was located at about the 8 oclock position on the engine, if you are looking at it from the "front" of the engine, the accessory-belt side. And that's right where the driveshaft and tie rods are. It took me a long afternoon, but I was able to get it out without pulling all that stuff out. Just took a while to get the right angles on it. I think I had to "pop" it past an obstruction with a crowbar.
And, quite frankly, even if you have to do all that stuff, it's not really that difficult with $40 worth of tools from Harbor Freight. Popping off a tie-rod is dead easy with a jaw puller, and the drive shaft comes out of the hub assembly pretty easily- I had to change that too, and that job took like 3 hours. It only gets difficult if the car is held together with rust. The hardest part of the job was getting the diety-darned pully off the old alternator. I had to admit defeat and bring it to Pep Boys and ask them to pop it off with a torque wrench. Took them all of a second...
Why put the alternator down there when its a "wear" part? First, it's the kind of thing you only ever have to do once or twice for the life of the vehicle. Especially if you know ahead of time that it is a bit of a hassle, you know to buy a NEW Motorcraft unit instead of a reman. Second, because that engine is DOHC, the top of the engine is huge and there's just no room for an alternator up there.
Also, the alternator may run cooler down there than it would at the top.
well if it lasted 130k miles that wouldn't be too bad though still a horrible design, but its only at 40k miles and thats not acceptable.
You may want to check the mega-fuse in the alternator power output wire, it may have blown which will give the same results as a dead alternator.
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Originally Posted By: mikeinaustin
any recommendation or thoughts on buying a new versus reconditioned alternator?
also, autozone, napa, o'reilly, where would you go?
Speaking from experience, I would stick with a Motorcraft remanu. alternator.
These have a tremendous markup at the dealer, so beware. If you know a mechanic that can get one for you from their supply house, do that. Otherwise, just get the part number from the Motorcraft website and then check out some place like Rockauto.com.
Fords are picky with electronics, it's best to stick with the Motorcraft and pay a tad more that have a new Advance Auto alternator blow out on you in about a thousand miles...
any recommendation or thoughts on buying a new versus reconditioned alternator?
also, autozone, napa, o'reilly, where would you go?
Speaking from experience, I would stick with a Motorcraft remanu. alternator.
These have a tremendous markup at the dealer, so beware. If you know a mechanic that can get one for you from their supply house, do that. Otherwise, just get the part number from the Motorcraft website and then check out some place like Rockauto.com.
Fords are picky with electronics, it's best to stick with the Motorcraft and pay a tad more that have a new Advance Auto alternator blow out on you in about a thousand miles...
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OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Not bad, Ford was using quick disconnects on the alternators in the 80's
That was a pretty bad idea. Bolt terminal is much better.
It worked OK for the low-output 2G. The 3G required the bolt terminal due to current output.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Not bad, Ford was using quick disconnects on the alternators in the 80's
That was a pretty bad idea. Bolt terminal is much better.
It worked OK for the low-output 2G. The 3G required the bolt terminal due to current output.
Originally Posted By: RedByrd
Fords are picky with electronics, it's best to stick with the Motorcraft and pay a tad more that have a new Advance Auto alternator blow out on you in about a thousand miles...
I had the 3G alternator in my Contour rebuilt by a local auto electric place when it died due to a battery with a shorted cell killing it.
Fords are picky with electronics, it's best to stick with the Motorcraft and pay a tad more that have a new Advance Auto alternator blow out on you in about a thousand miles...
I had the 3G alternator in my Contour rebuilt by a local auto electric place when it died due to a battery with a shorted cell killing it.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
It worked OK for the low-output 2G. The 3G required the bolt terminal due to current output.
Not really. There are reports of fires caused by the connector on the 2G alternator failing, and apparently replacement 2G alternators either come with a new connector or a sticker telling you that replacing it is a good idea. (I don't know--I never bought a replacement 2G alternator).
There's even a replacement rectifier for the 2G that has a bolt terminal instead of the push-on terminal.
It worked OK for the low-output 2G. The 3G required the bolt terminal due to current output.
Not really. There are reports of fires caused by the connector on the 2G alternator failing, and apparently replacement 2G alternators either come with a new connector or a sticker telling you that replacing it is a good idea. (I don't know--I never bought a replacement 2G alternator).
There's even a replacement rectifier for the 2G that has a bolt terminal instead of the push-on terminal.
Originally Posted By: RedByrd
Originally Posted By: mikeinaustin
any recommendation or thoughts on buying a new versus reconditioned alternator?
also, autozone, napa, o'reilly, where would you go?
Speaking from experience, I would stick with a Motorcraft remanu. alternator.
These have a tremendous markup at the dealer, so beware. If you know a mechanic that can get one for you from their supply house, do that. Otherwise, just get the part number from the Motorcraft website and then check out some place like Rockauto.com.
Fords are picky with electronics, it's best to stick with the Motorcraft and pay a tad more that have a new Advance Auto alternator blow out on you in about a thousand miles...
I never have been pleased with AAP or AutoZone replacement electrical products.
In another thread, I mentioned a few companies that make special replacement alternators, but I don't know if the re-engined Bosch or the MSD universal are any good.
Originally Posted By: mikeinaustin
any recommendation or thoughts on buying a new versus reconditioned alternator?
also, autozone, napa, o'reilly, where would you go?
Speaking from experience, I would stick with a Motorcraft remanu. alternator.
These have a tremendous markup at the dealer, so beware. If you know a mechanic that can get one for you from their supply house, do that. Otherwise, just get the part number from the Motorcraft website and then check out some place like Rockauto.com.
Fords are picky with electronics, it's best to stick with the Motorcraft and pay a tad more that have a new Advance Auto alternator blow out on you in about a thousand miles...
I never have been pleased with AAP or AutoZone replacement electrical products.
In another thread, I mentioned a few companies that make special replacement alternators, but I don't know if the re-engined Bosch or the MSD universal are any good.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: brianl703
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
It worked OK for the low-output 2G. The 3G required the bolt terminal due to current output.
Not really. There are reports of fires caused by the connector on the 2G alternator failing, and apparently replacement 2G alternators either come with a new connector or a sticker telling you that replacing it is a good idea. (I don't know--I never bought a replacement 2G alternator).
There's even a replacement rectifier for the 2G that has a bolt terminal instead of the push-on terminal.
The 2G on my Mustang lasted 20 years with not problems. The one on my Lincoln lasted 16 years. They were junk in terms of power output, but as long as the connectors didn't corrode, they were fine. The problem was corrosion on the spade connectors which caused excessive heat and would melt the plug (potential fire issue).
There was a "big body" 2G that was rated at 100A, I could see that one having more issues and making the rectifier swap with the bolt-terminal worthwhile. The 65A junker that came on your Fox, my Foxes and my Townie..... Not so much.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
It worked OK for the low-output 2G. The 3G required the bolt terminal due to current output.
Not really. There are reports of fires caused by the connector on the 2G alternator failing, and apparently replacement 2G alternators either come with a new connector or a sticker telling you that replacing it is a good idea. (I don't know--I never bought a replacement 2G alternator).
There's even a replacement rectifier for the 2G that has a bolt terminal instead of the push-on terminal.
The 2G on my Mustang lasted 20 years with not problems. The one on my Lincoln lasted 16 years. They were junk in terms of power output, but as long as the connectors didn't corrode, they were fine. The problem was corrosion on the spade connectors which caused excessive heat and would melt the plug (potential fire issue).
There was a "big body" 2G that was rated at 100A, I could see that one having more issues and making the rectifier swap with the bolt-terminal worthwhile. The 65A junker that came on your Fox, my Foxes and my Townie..... Not so much.
Check out this post from Escape-central.com, about 5th one down.
http://www.escape-central.com/1forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30936
1. Removed tire
2. Removed splash shield
3. Disconnected brake line tether on the strut
4. Removed the two 18mm bolts that connect the knuckle to the strut and moved it aside (towards the front of the vehicle)
5. Loosened the passenger's side engine mount a bit (its just one big 18mm bolt) to be able to jack up the engine a bit more
6. Jacked up the engine a bit with a block of wood on the oil pan and a jack
7. Removed the serpentine belt from the alt's pulley
8. Unbolted alternator and removed electrical connections and set it aside while the bracket was removed
9. Beer
10. Removed the alt after some cursing specially to Ford engineers
http://www.escape-central.com/1forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30936
1. Removed tire
2. Removed splash shield
3. Disconnected brake line tether on the strut
4. Removed the two 18mm bolts that connect the knuckle to the strut and moved it aside (towards the front of the vehicle)
5. Loosened the passenger's side engine mount a bit (its just one big 18mm bolt) to be able to jack up the engine a bit more
6. Jacked up the engine a bit with a block of wood on the oil pan and a jack
7. Removed the serpentine belt from the alt's pulley
8. Unbolted alternator and removed electrical connections and set it aside while the bracket was removed
9. Beer
10. Removed the alt after some cursing specially to Ford engineers
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