2001 Chevy Tahoe/M1 5W30 EP/10,102 mi/GM 5.3L

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Even though my "gut feeling" was telling me that 10K miles was too long, even for M1 EP, I still pushed it so that I could have a Dyson Analysis with a 10K usage.

My Tahoe has 70K miles and is driven normally. Not papmpered, but not abused. Off road, 4 wheel regularly, tow in the mountains at elevations above 7K feet. Of course I live at 6800 feet.

My "gut" was right. Terry confirmed that based on my driving, my vehicle and my application (my PC disclaimer) the M1 EP doesn't perform for me.

The oil was acidic and the TBN was depleted at 3.3. The oil also showed some thickening.

Cylinder, piston and bearing wear is evident with FE at 46ppm, CU 46ppm and PB 51ppm.

This oil was changed, so I'll be changing my "fresh" oil at a much sooner interval.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I must say that Dyson Analysis is well worth the price. Of course would a "normal Joe" notice a difference if they just went to Jiffy Lube every 3K miles? Probably not - but that discussion has been beat to death here - because we are all (on this site) particular about our oil and the particulates!

I post this info so that others can use this as a basis for their determination of what oil to use. I'll be changing to another brand in a couple of months.

Moral of this story: Short trips and cold weather is the enemy of oil - even a quality oil and quality filter.

Cheeers, Doug
 
What's in your future ... GC, Red Line, Platinum.... etc??? I didn't mention Amsoil - unless the weight/name-level you want isn't from the Mobil-1 base stock. I think we all would like to know the base oil supplier-name that Amsoil uses in each of it's brand titles.
 
Why do I have a feeling that if it was RL or any other brand, Dyson would not have blamed the oil but the condtions of the vehicle such as dirt ingression etc.??
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Just trying to be objective.

On the other hand, I'd use another oil simply bc of the way XOM has been about the response of Group III in the product. Also bc of some poster who tried to get someone fired for a ridiculous reason.

PP/GC/Amsoil would be great synthetic alternative choices to M1.
 
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From my interactive report with Doug: "Doug, I want to reiterate the fact that the oil and duration of use is NOT the problem, the tune level is. The drain interval is just showing us the real problem you would have masked with an earlier oil change!"

Buster be careful people who do not know me well with believe you. Plus you can be a bit overreactive publicly with your off the cuff comments. Just trying to be objective.
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M1 blows for the dollar cost but I still am not beholden to any brand, I just tell it like oil analysis shows it is !

Terry
 
Yes, I do have an issue with the fuel contaminating the oil. I stand by what Terry said because he's the paid expert. I am just a pog who needs to check some other items with regard to combustion.

Cheers, Doug
 
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Doug, I want to reiterate the fact that the oil and duration of use is NOT the problem, the tune level is. The drain interval is just showing us the real problem you would have masked with an earlier oil change!"




Terry, I wasn't concluding from what he said that this was 100% the case. Thanks for clarifying though.

I agree with you about the M1. Terry you're aloud to dislike/like "brands". Brands are all different and therefore can perform better/worse depending on the "brand".

The only way to really prove whether any other oil will do better would be to test one. I vote for PP or Amsoil.

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Doug, you are not any such thing ! You are a highly valued customer who is CONTROLLING your engines performance and life by using science over marketing and blanket statements/directions! That is no POG, by the way what is a POG ?
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Buster, why test another oil when I already offer my customers advice based on reams of real world data matched to exact engine and lube fluid results?

Always correct the engine or unit performance and tuning BEFORE attempting to correct with a chemistry solution, after that Dr.Strangelove kicks in ....

TD

Terry
 
Terry, he said M1 wasn't performing for him. You said "M1 blows for the $$". Obviously we know the engine tuning can be the issue many times, but we also know that brands and chemistries do differ. In that case, we are left to chose between different brands. I was just suggesting some oils that might hold up better thats all.

My initial response was that something other than the oil was the culprit here, hence the very high wear metals.
I'm sure you will give him great advice to help him get better results.
 
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I don't think he could get a decent 10K UOA with any oil...Period....Yes, even Amsoil, Redline, or whatever. It's the nature of the beast!
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^^^ I agree 110% with this!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Doug C,

What did you do on this engine to correct the fuel dilution condition?

This engine is in a ton of full-sized GM trucks. Your input would be helpful.
 
Please explain the comment that the oil was acidic and the TBN was depleted at 3.3. TBN is the ability for the oil to deal with acids as they are produced during combustion. Depending upon the lab that does the analysis, a TBN of 2 or 3 is towards the end of its useful life and the oil should be replaced, however I do not believe the oil is actually acidic with a TBN of 3.3.
 
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Please explain the comment that the oil was acidic and the TBN was depleted at 3.3. TBN is the ability for the oil to deal with acids as they are produced during combustion. Depending upon the lab that does the analysis, a TBN of 2 or 3 is towards the end of its useful life and the oil should be replaced, however I do not believe the oil is actually acidic with a TBN of 3.3.




Donald, Dyson Analysis also measures TAN in a UOA. This would have indicated that the oil was acidic.
 
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