1993 Chevrolet Blazer running thread

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Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
I can't recall, but does this thing have a distributor or 3 coil packs? If it has a distributor, it sounds like either your base timing is wrong or the advance isn't working correctly.


I'm certain it has a distributor.
 
Get this thing into field service mode. Jumper the ALDL connector with a wire, paperclip, whatever then see if the check engine light blinks/ flickers when driving. This will show closed loop operation and o2 sensor control.

Do not report back any other findings or experiments, nothing else is as important as seeing this working.
 
Nothing in a bottle, can, or used in beauty industry is going to fix this. At the rate you are going you are going to cause more damage trying to fix problems that are not there. There has been a ton of helpful information posted above, use it.

Slow down and think about the problem. The difference between a good tech and a bad is DIAGNOSIS. You can throw parts at it all day and all you will get is alot of time wasted and empty wallet. Take the time to find out what is causing the problem and fix that, it will save you time, headache and a lot of money.

Here is what we know in regards to failing emissions -

- High HC and CO - both together point to rich A/F

Start with eljefino's post. Before anything do that.

Now put down the Olay, your pistons do not need moisturizing.
 
Originally Posted By: css9450
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
I can't recall, but does this thing have a distributor or 3 coil packs? If it has a distributor, it sounds like either your base timing is wrong or the advance isn't working correctly.


I'm certain it has a distributor.


It has a distributor. We used an old, ragged one when throwing engine back together.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Get this thing into field service mode. Jumper the ALDL connector with a wire, paperclip, whatever then see if the check engine light blinks/ flickers when driving. This will show closed loop operation and o2 sensor control.

Do not report back any other findings or experiments, nothing else is as important as seeing this working.


Mine doesn't have one! I looked!

*slim* chance it s hiding behind some trim I put back together. I remember seeing it and using it previously.

Want to see pics?
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Get this thing into field service mode. Jumper the ALDL connector with a wire, paperclip, whatever then see if the check engine light blinks/ flickers when driving. This will show closed loop operation and o2 sensor control.

Do not report back any other findings or experiments, nothing else is as important as seeing this working.


Mine doesn't have one! I looked!

*slim* chance it s hiding behind some trim I put back together. I remember seeing it and using it previously.

Want to see pics?


All GMs of that era had a diagnostic port.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs


It has a distributor. We used an old, ragged one when throwing engine back together.


If you've removed the original distributor and installed a different one, you need to check the timing with a timing light. No matter how carefully you've marked everything, the new one could be way off. New, used, aftermarket, rebuilt, junkyard... It doesn't matter. You can't assume the timing is correct unless you check it.
 
Originally Posted By: css9450
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs


It has a distributor. We used an old, ragged one when throwing engine back together.


If you've removed the original distributor and installed a different one, you need to check the timing with a timing light. No matter how carefully you've marked everything, the new one could be way off. New, used, aftermarket, rebuilt, junkyard... It doesn't matter. You can't assume the timing is correct unless you check it.


I think we may have a winner!
 
The car has a distributor. http://catalog.gmpartsdirect.co/index.ph...amp;catid=30139

But there is NO point in replacing it until you've determined whether or not it's working correctly. Check the timing. Check the other things, like compression, that have been mentioned. Stop guessing and start analyzing.

What's the point of a new distributor if the old one is still OK? What's the point of a new distributor if the engine has low compression and isn't EVER going to run right?
 
Hammy-over-the-hedge-116958_1024_768.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
How did you go from checking the timing to replacing the distributor?


Timing and distributor, isnt a distributor seated on something that times? or a distributor could be off a notch ?

* I don't have an ALDL.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
The car has a distributor. http://catalog.gmpartsdirect.co/index.ph...amp;catid=30139

But there is NO point in replacing it until you've determined whether or not it's working correctly. Check the timing. Check the other things, like compression, that have been mentioned. Stop guessing and start analyzing.

What's the point of a new distributor if the old one is still OK? What's the point of a new distributor if the engine has low compression and isn't EVER going to run right?


What is the best kind of compression gauge?

I can check it out on Monday, I have three days of work Friday Saturday Sunday and my ribs are still sore!
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Get this thing into field service mode. Jumper the ALDL connector with a wire, paperclip, whatever then see if the check engine light blinks/ flickers when driving. This will show closed loop operation and o2 sensor control.

Do not report back any other findings or experiments, nothing else is as important as seeing this working.


Mine doesn't have one! I looked!

*slim* chance it s hiding behind some trim I put back together. I remember seeing it and using it previously.

Want to see pics?


All GMs of that era had a diagnostic port.


Is it possible mine is hiding behind trim when I threw the dash back together?
 
You set the base ignition timing by loosening the screws that secure the distributor and rotating it. You need a timing light that connects to the battery and plug wire to see what it is set at.

Go buy a Chilton's manual, and you can probably rent a timing light from Advance/Autozone for no charge. The Chilton's manual will explain the procedure for setting the timing, you'll probably have to disconnect the CTS or something to keep the computer from trying to adjust the timing on you while you're setting the base timing.

Stay away from the additives aisle!
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
It has a distributor. We used an old, ragged one when throwing engine back together.


You keep peeling off key information over hundreds of posts.

You need to sit down and outline all the steps that were done (what parts and from where)

Won't even ask why you chose to wait until the engine was installed to check plugs and wires from the "old ragged dist"

I'm stunned the thing even runs
 
Originally Posted By: cmorr
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
It has a distributor. We used an old, ragged one when throwing engine back together.


You keep peeling off key information over hundreds of posts.

You need to sit down and outline all the steps that were done (what parts and from where)

Won't even ask why you chose to wait until the engine was installed to check plugs and wires from the "old ragged dist"

I'm stunned the thing even runs



I find some of these things a daunting task. I know I can get at 4 of the 6 spark plugs, if I was to check compression myself. I know the distributor, you basically have to lay on top of the engine to get to it and not drop screws, and my ribs are bruised. I have also been feeling sluggish this week and I am starting to suspect the car smelling like exhaust at lights is doing it.

I want to say this: Everyone is on point here. Today, in an effort to please the emissions, I did run hot water through brake booster, and changed the oil as I read hat changing the oil before a test helps. This is when I discovered I now need a new screwdriver, as old one is lost. SO I need to change oil filter at a later time, as you take off air intake to get to it. I also stopped looking for the ALDL, which I maybe showed up somewhere in the dash I threw back together when I aligned my shifting, though i cant see a wire that it would be, and the hood cable poked my hand when i was doing this, and it made me bleed. Also, I was kneeling and my bruised ribs began to hurt when I did this.

I have been feeling woozy for days.

I am doing my best here and I asked to borrow Mom's car to go to work tomorrow so I wont feel woozy.

I also believe it is running rich, and all these tests suggested before I see about having the 0S sensor changed, if I cant get to the 02 sensor myself?

I am debating getting a new memory card and taking a pic of how my ALDL is absent. Light comes on "just after a surge of power," if that helps anything. It then turns itself off sitting at a light. And I cant find the ALDL.

I also see a lot less drips/leaks under it. I want to say "none" but I am sure I will see some when I say that.

And my engine oil pressure gauge never blinks when I Put 10W-40 in it.

.

1275151_559097894156761_1276938983_o.jpg
 
If you are smelling exhaust, you probably have a hole in the floor that it letting it into the cab.

I don't think you should be losing any more brain cells, so you might want to go looking.
 
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