19 F150 5.0 Amsoil OE 5w20 4,871 miles

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First time sending in a sample on any of my own vehicles. Looks like it held up ok. Oil life monitor said 29% left. It was about 3/4 qt low at the time of draining, but still well above the add mark. Oil filter was a FL-500s

I drained and filled it 5w50 Motorcraft that I had laying around. I can tell absolutely no difference in the way the engine runs, however at hot idle it is NOTICEABLY quieter. I’ll run that to 6,000 miles and send it in for analysis. I fully expect it to shear a lot.
 
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First time sending in a sample on any of my own vehicles. Looks like it held up ok. Oil life monitor said 29% left. It was about 3/4 qt low at the time of draining, but still well above the add mark. Oil filter was a FL-500s

I drained and filled it 5w50 Motorcraft that I had laying around. I can tell absolutely no difference in the way the engine runs, however at hot idle it is NOTICEABLY quieter. I’ll run that to 6,000 miles and send it in for analysis. I fully expect it to shear a lot.
Good run. Fuel thinned it some. Yeah, goin' from a 20 to a 50 will, definitely quiet an engine.
 
Good run. Fuel thinned it some. Yeah, goin' from a 20 to a 50 will, definitely quiet an engine.

It’s funny cause with the 20wt it sounded like a Diesel engine at hot idle. I hope the 5w50 has a good showing. Only downside to it is cost. It lists for over 12 dollars a qt
 
It’s funny cause with the 20wt it sounded like a Diesel engine at hot idle. I hope the 5w50 has a good showing. Only downside to it is cost. It lists for over 12 dollars a qt
I know you had it lying around but just a heads up that Mobil1 FS X2 5W50 is on sale at Napa for $5.99/qt.
 
It’s funny cause with the 20wt it sounded like a Diesel engine at hot idle. I hope the 5w50 has a good showing. Only downside to it is cost. It lists for over 12 dollars a qt
I have an '18 F150 5.0 and yeah, they are noisy as hell. Drives me nuts but I try to just ignore it. I've thought of going to 5/40 or 5/50 so im interested how it does and if the engine stays noticeably quieter or time.
 
i like + use heavier oils + those in hotter climates should NOT use any xxW20 oils IMO! the first # cold rating makes up the blend with viscosity improvers allowing it to reach the hot rating + oils with closer spreads are generally better unless a real synthetic like PAO 30W that passes as a 10W WITHOUT viscosity improvers!
 
I have an '18 F150 5.0 and yeah, they are noisy as hell. Drives me nuts but I try to just ignore it. I've thought of going to 5/40 or 5/50 so im interested how it does and if the engine stays noticeably quieter or time.

Yeah I’m very interested in how it does as well. I’ve put almost 1000 miles on the oil change with the 50wt and it’s still quiet. I think I’ll let the OLM run down to zero or ~6500 miles and send in a sample.

I really hope it does well, if it does, I’ll just continue with the 5w50. Napa has castrol and Mobil 5w50 both at killer deals right now. Im so tempted to buy enough for 2 or 3 oil changes but if the sample comes back bad, I’ll have a bunch of oil that I wont want to use.

Any reason to buy the Mobil over the castrol or vise versa?
 
Yeah I’m very interested in how it does as well. I’ve put almost 1000 miles on the oil change with the 50wt and it’s still quiet. I think I’ll let the OLM run down to zero or ~6500 miles and send in a sample.

I really hope it does well, if it does, I’ll just continue with the 5w50. Napa has castrol and Mobil 5w50 both at killer deals right now. Im so tempted to buy enough for 2 or 3 oil changes but if the sample comes back bad, I’ll have a bunch of oil that I wont want to use.

Any reason to buy the Mobil over the castrol or vise versa?

With prices an oil quality level being equal I would probably buy the M1 but that's just because I've used M1 more than Castrol over the years. I wouldn't worry about using either one. One thing I meant to ask. Does engine feel like it revs slower or feel down on power at all?
 
With prices an oil quality level being equal I would probably buy the M1 but that's just because I've used M1 more than Castrol over the years. I wouldn't worry about using either one. One thing I meant to ask. Does engine feel like it revs slower or feel down on power at all?
I’ve always been a Mobil guy too, their 5w50 said it was a European formula or something like that so I wasn’t sure if it was “ ok” to use.

I noticed absolutely no difference in the way it revs or any perceived lack of power. Truck is tuned and revs out to 7,100 rpms in sport mode and I can’t tell any difference in power with the 50 vs the 20. Cold starts have been fine too, couple of mornings it’s been in the teens and I can’t tell any difference.

Only difference is the engine is a lot quieter
 
I’ve always been a Mobil guy too, their 5w50 said it was a European formula or something like that so I wasn’t sure if it was “ ok” to use.

I noticed absolutely no difference in the way it revs or any perceived lack of power. Truck is tuned and revs out to 7,100 rpms in sport mode and I can’t tell any difference in power with the 50 vs the 20. Cold starts have been fine too, couple of mornings it’s been in the teens and I can’t tell any difference.

Only difference is the engine is a lot quieter
You didn't see an mpg reduction going that heavy?
 
You didn't see an mpg reduction going that heavy?
I reckon he could pour in a diesel spec 15w40 and the engine wouldn’t care and MPGs at the pump would be within the margin of error. It doesn’t effect fuel economy as much as people think.
 
I reckon he could pour in a diesel spec 15w40 and the engine wouldn’t care and MPGs at the pump would be within the margin of error. It doesn’t effect fuel economy as much as people think.
Odd. I put 5w40 once in my 2002 Dodge Ram and immediately noticed a difference...a drop.
 
Odd. I put 5w40 once in my 2002 Dodge Ram and immediately noticed a difference...a drop.

Well I call nonsense. My Mazda 3 specs 0w20. I currently run 5w30. Same MPG average as when new, tank after tank. I once ran 0w40 in it as an experiment. Same MPGs during the 3k mile run. 🤷🏻‍♂️

I run 10w40 in my Toyota Celica 1.8L. It exceed the factory rated gas mileage (OE spec is 5w30) and I run it HARD.
 
Well I call nonsense. My Mazda 3 specs 0w20. I currently run 5w30. Same MPG average as when new, tank after tank. I once ran 0w40 in it as an experiment. Same MPGs during the 3k mile run. 🤷🏻‍♂️

I run 10w40 in my Toyota Celica 1.8L. It exceed the factory rated gas mileage (OE spec is 5w30) and I run it HARD.
Call it what you want. My experience is my experience.
 
I have been using 40 grades for the last 3 years on my 2018 5.0 in an F150. May just start using 5w50 as well. Just recently I replaced my vct solenoids due to a rough idle and stalling issue. Which seems to have fixed the issue so far. Warranty did not cover these as I had no check engine light / codes. So I paid out of pocket. Some things I’ve seen in datalogging is that using lighter oils you get really low psi at hot idle. Which doesn’t allow for the vct system to operate properly causing issues. I’ve found that heavier oils give higher hot idle pressure and it runs much smoother. Here’s some info I have saved from a well known tuner for these.


The noise is not coming from the DI pump. It is being caused by the DI pump, but the noise itself is typically the exhaust cam phaser on the passenger side. The added load of the DI pump and the stiffer valve springs in Gen 3 motors put a lot of extra force on that cam.

At very low loads and RPM, the oil pump is barely making 20-25 psi of oil pressure, and very minimal flow. So, then the VCT solenoids open to allow oil to enter the phasers to rotate the phaser, there isn’t enough pressure or flow to fill the galley quick enough to rotate the cam, and there’s a small amount of air inside the phaser for a split second, while the cam is being commanded to rotate. That causes the phaser to “rattle” back and forth until oil fills the galley and rotates the phaser. Is it ideal, no. Is it hurting anything, highly unlikely.

Now... why does it happen tuned and doesn’t happen stock. That’s because in our tune, we schedule the DI system to come online earlier, at lower loads and lower rpms. We do that, because this being a 12:1 CR engine, it needs all the knock protection it can get, especially if you choose to run low octane fuel. Direct Injection direct cools the cylinder, greatly increasing knock protection and performance. So, it’s a valid trade off. Better protection from something that definitely will hurt your engine, knock, versus the slight chance that if you feather the gas pedal juuust right, you’ll here the cam phasers rattle.

Let me be very clear this is not “ping”, “knock”, or “detonation” like everyone likes to describe any noise they ever hear an engine make. Trucks that have this issue will make the noise even with E85 in the tank, and it’s essentially impossible to cause knock on one of these engines on E85, without obscene amounts of boost. So.... it’s not knock.

Another easy test you can do yourself to prove to yourself, that “maybe” I might actually know what I’m talking about. 😉When you hear the noise, press the pedal down just a little more. What this will do is instantly increase oil pressure and flow, abs the noise will stop. Now, if this were knock, increasing load would have the exact opposite effect. You would cause more knock because the cylinder pressures would increase with the added load/throttle.

Lastly, for everyone that’s hearing this noise, you should all check your oil levels. Everyone knows these trucks have oil consumption issues, and of the dozens of times I’ve explained this to various people 90% of the time the person complaining of the noise was down on oil.

So, things you can do to improve or eliminate the noise. First, make sure your oil level is full. I personally run an extra 1/2 quart of oil in all of my Coyote engines. I do this based on recommendations from several well known engine builders. Coyote engines tend to have a hard time with oil drain-back when driven hard, and that can leave you with an oil pan that’s basically dry at WOT. Adding an extra 1/2 quart is a good way to help with that, and have adequate oil flow will also help with this noise. Second, run 5w50 oil. It’s perfectly safe for any Coyote engine, and the added weight can increase oil pressure at low loads, which can help with this problem as well.













More info to share. I've touched on the tip-in "rattle" a few times, and what cuases it. It's often mistaken for knock, but it's not knock. The noise is coming from the VCT system, and is typically the timing chains slapping against the guides. Ford has issued an SSM for the noise.



Reading through the SSM, you'll see that the very first troubleshooting step is to verify oil level, as low oil level will cuase the VCT system to not have enough flow or pressure to proeprly actuate the VCT phasers at low RPM/Load. I would add onto this further and also note that we recommend, and use, 5w50 weight oil in all of our Coyote engines. The added weight will increase oil pressure under the same operatring conditions versus Ford's recommend 5w20 weight oil. Before anyone attacks me for recomending "non-recommended" oil weights. You should know that any high performance version of the Coyote (Boss 302 and 302S for example) and also Roush, who sells vehciles at Ford dealerships with full factory waranty, both recommend using 5w50 weight oil. So, any one experieincing a tip-in rattle at low RPM/Load, might want to consider these troubleshooting steps.



To further add to this, the range to fault the DTC codes mentioned in the SSM seems to be pretty large. I have seen datalogs from several trucks with VCT control issues that are not faulting these DTC codes. Most of them are easily sorted with switching oil weight and making sure the oil leve is full at all times, but some have actually required repalcing the VCT solenoids. It would probably be difficult to get the solenoids repaced under warranty without the DTC codes present, but for those experiencing rough idle, stalling, or tip-in rattle, the info in this SSM could be benficial.



[https://www.tsbsearch.com/Ford/SSM4...b2PIlEKjE04jIh8Td8Uo_9DQkvzCR0LR7pApnjCsfYbk)
 
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Is there not a warranty issue with running the 5w50?
Ford actually recommends 5w50 when running a supercharger. I’m sure it’s not going to help if you have a failure as it’s not technically recommended for naturally aspirated coyotes. But it’s what many are recommending now including many tuners and engine builders.
 
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