0 weight oils?

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Originally Posted By: Pablo


IMHO if you have 500+ posts here and it has not been absorbed by reading


How do you post 500 times on an oil message board and not know how simple oil grades work? I'll be honest, I am being snotty and sarcastic.
 
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: OldBaldy


I'll tell you again, I think you have the right idea...use the thinnest oil you can to increase efficiency, improve cold startup flow, improve heat dissipation, etc but (and this is a very BIG but!)....ONLY to the extent that you are providing an oil that provides sufficient film strength and bearing / piston wear protection to avoid very high metal wear in your motor under high pressure, mid-summer, high hear conditions.


Thanks Barry... now you and I are thinking alike...


We're definitely NOT.

But I SINCERELY hope you don't have issues with your choice, Larry.
 
its true without a uoa on your specific motor it just guess work, but in my testing GC showed to be one of the few that can stand up!

Steve
 
Originally Posted By: OldBaldy
BusyLittleShop said:
OldBaldy said:
We're definitely NOT.

But I SINCERELY hope you don't have issues with your choice, Larry.


OK Barry maybe were not both thinking alike... what is the answer to
this Oil University question???

While racing at 95°F, mid-summer in Florida, which of these
synthetic oils gives the best protection at 302°F oil temperature?

A. 0W-40
B. 5W-40
C. 10W-40
D. Straight 40 grade
E. They are all exactly the same

Answer:???
 
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The answer is.... it depends on a lot more than the SAE viscosity grade. In general, the order of preference would be the opposite of what you listed, but it could easily be otherwise; for example, I would prefer a well formulated 0w-40 to a shoddily formulated 10w-40.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
The answer is.... it depends on a lot more than the SAE viscosity grade. In general, the order of preference would be the opposite of what you listed, but it could easily be otherwise; for example, I would prefer a well formulated 0w-40 to a shoddily formulated 10w-40.


Envelop please... no lets wait for my friend Old Baldy to answer...
 
BLS,
imho, a LOT would depend on what brand of each of those 4 were chosen!
no way in he77 would i run castrol gtx 10w40!!! but i would run exxon superflo sae40 till the cows come home! and i would love to try maxima 5w40, but i have already proven that SRT 5w40 doesnt last in my motor.

so, a big big -> IT DEPENDS!!!

steve
 
Originally Posted By: sunruh
BLS,
imho, a LOT would depend on what brand of each of those 4 were chosen!
no way in he77 would i run castrol gtx 10w40!!! but i would run exxon superflo sae40 till the cows come home! and i would love to try maxima 5w40, but i have already proven that SRT 5w40 doesnt last in my motor.

so, a big big -> IT DEPENDS!!!

steve


Mercy steve of course it DEPENDS on brand... but DEPENDS
ain't one of the answers... before we get into all that I
wish know what Old Baldy thinks is the correct answer...


That's some the sig you have there... so now I dying to know
what motorcycle oil myths have you busted???
 
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: OldBaldy
BusyLittleShop said:
OldBaldy said:
We're definitely NOT.

But I SINCERELY hope you don't have issues with your choice, Larry.


OK Barry maybe were not both thinking alike... what is the answer to
this Oil University question???

While racing at 95°F, mid-summer in Florida, which of these
synthetic oils gives the best protection at 302°F oil temperature?

A. 0W-40
B. 5W-40
C. 10W-40
D. Straight 40 grade
E. They are all exactly the same

Answer:???


Incomplete question, Larry. You don't mention which oils they are, what type of racing, etc.

If I were racing a 24-hour race where endurance of the oil is crucial in high temps of 95 F or higher, I'd use a straight 40W synthetic or the 10W-40 because they will tend to shear less over time (all else being equal) than the wider range oils.

This is assuming that the nominal 40 grade oil is appropriate for the motor in the first place in these temps.

The cold oil performance is irrelevant here, as the oil would only be cold before the start of the race, and so it would come down which oil can survive the punishment the longest, without degradation, and as you know, Larry, the narrower range spec oils require less VI improvers than the wider range oils, which can degrade faster.

If the 40W oil was a dino oil, and the 0W-40 or 5W-40 were a good synthetic, then I'd likely choose the synthetic, but again, with your incomplete question, I have to make the assumption you're talking about similar types of oils, with similar general package makeups.

If the racing were short-distance drag racing type stuff, then I'd likely choose the 0W-40 due to its lighter viscosity when not fully warm (many drag motors run with cool oil not yet fully warmed up), and to [censored] with the long-term endurance of the oil.

If I were riding on the street in Florida, then I'd choose a good synthetic of the recommended grade from the manufacturer for that average temperature, and that would avoid the use of the straight 40 grade oil, due to the number of cold startups one will encounter.

So, not sure how this helps you, other than I'm going to guess that you are going to suggest that all of the oils offer similar performance due to being nominally rated the same at their warm spec.....to which I'd reply that you need to be careful that actual oil viscosities are hardly ever the same as their nominal viscosity ratings, and there are a whole BUNCH of other performance and usage criteria to be concerned with, when comparing oils, than simply their nominal visc rating.

More specific to your particular situation, if you asked me which oil I would run in your RC45 in Florida or California in mid summer, between the Castrol 0W-30 Euro oil (GC) and your chosen Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 oil, I'd absolutely ALWAYS choose the GC oil, despite them having the same nominal rating.

The GC is a very tough, EUro oriented oil with HTHS > 3.5 (although Castrol never fixed their PDS documentation) while the M1 is only 3.0. That is too thin, IMO, for an application where Honda recommends a 40 or 50 grade oil and does not recommend ANY 30 grade. The GC will almost certainly be fine. The M1 Fuel economy oil....is highly questionable to me.....and not worth any potential issue it may cause in your application.
 
Originally Posted By: OldBaldy
BusyLittleShop said:
The M1 Fuel economy oil....is highly questionable to me.....and not worth any potential issue it may cause in your application.



Barry I understand if my M1 is "highly questionable" to you
but I don't understand why you would say that I'm "clueless"
and my oil is "horrible" during our Speedzilla discussions
over the principal of fluidity???
 
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: OldBaldy
BusyLittleShop said:
The M1 Fuel economy oil....is highly questionable to me.....and not worth any potential issue it may cause in your application.



Barry I understand if my M1 is "highly questionable" to you
but I don't understand why you would say that I'm "clueless"
and my oil is "horrible" during our Speedzilla discussions
over the principal of fluidity???



I think I've explained the reasons over and over, Larry. You choose to ignore them, or not read them, and go off at a tangent with something else, or compare the nominal viscosity rating and assume things like the Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 being the same viscosity to, say, the GC 0W-30 oil as to put forward the many good UOAs for the GC oil as representative of the M1 economy oil for use in your bike which calls for 40 or 50 grade oils in high summer.

I'm done with this topic, Larry, unless you want to stick to the topic at hand, which is the suitability (or lack thereof) of using a very light M1 fuel economy 0W-30 oil in your lovely, rare, expensive, RC45 V4 motor in mid summer when Honda recommends a stout 40 grade or 50 grade above 32C.
 
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