Recent content by CelicaGT6

Though I'd appreciate the opinions just the same, I thought I'd let you know I went ahead and ordered up a couple cases of RL 5W30 yesterday because I'm in need of an oil change before my next track event. I'm probably going to cover up the oil cooler for the daily commute and see how that...

What?! Do you not see the dates? The previous post was made almost 6 months ago. It's not a thread hijack. It's that I didn't think my inquiry warranted it's own thread when this thread had similar content and wasn't active.

I finally got an oil cooler on my car and am about due for an oil change. Here are the stats: *Engine: 1997 Toyota 1MZ-FE w/ about 70,000 miles *3-5psi oil pressure drop noted at cold temperature startup (down from 80psi) after the oil cooler was installed. *Oil cooling system uses a remote...

oops. double post.

I re-greased an old set of strut top bearings when I swapped in my new KONIs. I washed out the old grease and grim by soaking overnight in Simple Green. After sufficiently cleaning it out such that no grit was felt, and it was completely dry, I packed the bearings with Redline's CV-2 grease...

For the last 2 UOA's I've used K&N filter HP-1002 and have had favorable results (aside from high copper). As we carry that filter and the HP-2009 in stock, I've compared them and noticed the 2009 looks identical except that it's about 30% longer. All arguements regarding filter size aside...

Here's a couple images from ~2 years (~25k miles) ago when I first started my engine swap project: 1997 Toyota Avalon engine. Mileage unknown but I assumed around 37,000 when I picked it up in 2002. Details: Oil: RL 5W30 (last 2 changes) 1st change was M1 5w30 at 6500 miles OCI...

So I've been thinking about this for a bit... What can cause the oil to thicken? Could the high copper level be a sign of oil starvation?

I'm doing some work this weekend on the car so while changing out the plugs I took off the same front cam cover to see if anything has changed in the last 20,000 miles: More oil everywhere than above photo, but then, the above photo was taken after the engine sat for almost a year...

I bought the engine from a junkyard in southern California. 1997 Toyota Avalon. VIN tag 4T1BF12B5VU139547 I have no clue what the previous history was. Here are a couple of engine pictures I took a couple years ago when I was working on the swap: I may try pulling that same valve cover to...

I found it odd that the flashpoint was so much lower than last time as well. I'll try to keep this OCI around the 7200 mile mark to compare it to the 1st RL OCI last year. I ran the car on the track a couple weeks ago (open track. 7x20 minute runs over 2 days. Oil temps as high as 245degF), but...

Oops sorry. I cut off the screenshot. There, it's fixed. I didn't get the TBN test performed as I figured it would have been similar to the last analysis given similar mileage and usage.

Here's another analysis: Copper doesn't want to come down. I didn't run any cleaners or anything of that nature this interval. I also don't think I ran my car on the track either. I wonder where all the copper is coming from and whether it will turn into a problem. I also fixed the pan...

Ha ha.. back from the dead. Hi all. I've got an oil cooler I'll be setting up on my 1MZ-FE Toyota engine. This engine uses the K&N HP-1002 filter. The remote filter adapter I will be using for the cooler calls for a Fram PH8A equivalent which ends up being a K&N HP-3001. Two questions here...

Let's expand on this post since that is the direction I wanted to go with this thread. How are these numbers represented and do engine manufacturers provide requirements? Will these numbers matter at temperatures above O*C? Does thicker oil "stick" better to parts helping with cold starts...