RL 5W30 vs M1 5W30 vs 1997 Toyota 1MZ-FE

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Here's another analysis:

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Copper doesn't want to come down. I didn't run any cleaners or anything of that nature this interval. I also don't think I ran my car on the track either. I wonder where all the copper is coming from and whether it will turn into a problem.

I also fixed the pan gasket leak during this fluid change so theoretically I shouldn't have to add any oil for the next analysis.

I wonder if switching to RL 5w40 will reduce the copper wear or maybe trying a different oil filter.

Any thoughts?
 
quote:

Si and copper bump are directly related. Correct Si and the copper will follow

Looks like it's not the Si, but a chemical reaction with RL.

I don't think it's viscosity and he did make the point that if one metal is high, it's usually not a problem. Decent amount of make up oil. Any TBN or viscosity?
 
Oops sorry. I cut off the screenshot. There, it's fixed. I didn't get the TBN test performed as I figured it would have been similar to the last analysis given similar mileage and usage.
 
I found it odd that the flashpoint was so much lower than last time as well. I'll try to keep this OCI around the 7200 mile mark to compare it to the 1st RL OCI last year. I ran the car on the track a couple weeks ago (open track. 7x20 minute runs over 2 days. Oil temps as high as 245degF), but other than that I don't foresee hard driving for the remainder of this OCI. The majority of the miles will be my measly 7 mile commute and the occasional day trip.
 
Where did you get the 1MZ that you transplanted into your Celica (I assume it's a transplant, or you must have paid an awfully high bribe to someone at Toyota...)? If it was from a wrecked car, you might have some odd, off-the-wall damage throwing things off a bit.
 
I bought the engine from a junkyard in southern California. 1997 Toyota Avalon. VIN tag 4T1BF12B5VU139547

I have no clue what the previous history was. Here are a couple of engine pictures I took a couple years ago when I was working on the swap:

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I may try pulling that same valve cover to see if there's been in any change in the last 20,000 miles. If I do, I'll post it.
 
I'd like Terry's opinion on this one. I didn't think the Si was high the first time. I don't know why this oil thickend and showed high Cu. Could be a chemical reaction with the Moly. Their were some articles around here on that subject.
 
I'm doing some work this weekend on the car so while changing out the plugs I took off the same front cam cover to see if anything has changed in the last 20,000 miles:

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More oil everywhere than above photo, but then, the above photo was taken after the engine sat for almost a year.

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Some sludge perhaps?
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Close up shot of possible sludge.
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Also, my spark plugs looked interesting. See photos here:
http://photobucket.com/albums/v232/sbcelicagt/Celica V6/Spark Plugs/
The electrode looks worn and deposits might be from seafoam treatment last year.

All three front plugs look the same. I'm now off to pull the rear plugs and change out the rear bank O2 sensor.

I may also clean out the air filter this weekend. It's a cotton gauze type filter and has about 20,000 miles (~2 years) of use on it.
 
So I've been thinking about this for a bit...

What can cause the oil to thicken? Could the high copper level be a sign of oil starvation?
 
I'm no expert in this area, but insolubles are on the high side which explains the thickening. This could be from dirt injestion (Si is still a little high) or could be from leaky injector putting fuel into the oil which is subsequently burned off. I also noticed your K and Na values creeped up this interval which could indicate a slight coolant leak. Could be a combination of any of these.

If this is only your second run of Redline, you might want to do a couple more OCIs before you test again to let things settle down.
 
Practice shorter OCI's until consistency appears. 5k is good place to start. Stick with one brand of oil. Bouncing from brand to brand doesn't help UOA trending.

Whats cooling this motor? Make sure thermostat and radiator cap are in good working order and preferable OEM. Flush the coolant and see if a bottle of bars leak helps.
I don't care for pod air filters. Clean it more frequently or replace it.
What oil filter PN are you using? If there is room for larger filter, use it.
Use iridium or normal double platinum plugs. I never cared for +2 or +4 plugs.
Have the injectors cleaned.
 
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