This is for the thickies out there

[HyundaiAbuser]

So my 94 b4000 just recently started burning a noticeable amount of oil. Its running about a quart every 750 miles whereas i couldn't notice anything before. As for the oil i was previously using supertech 5w30 full synthetic high milage before and tried some 15w40 hdeo with some 5w20 since its winter (about a 4:1 mixture). Since i noticed it started burning that oil i did a change with some harvest king conventional 10w30 and the burning continues. Is it time to chastise it to a diet of 20w50 high milage or are there some more intermediate steps (pcv valve) that i should take in the meantime?

 

[HyundaiAbuser]

Also the usage of this truck is almost exclusively either a 45 minute two way highway trip or a 1.5 hour two way highway trip with 2-3 1-2 miles trips between.

 

[Kira]

Which engine in the B4000 and how many miles?

Since you said PCV, I say PCV.

Depending on odo, do a compression check

 

[tundraotto]

PCV first IMHO

 

[caprice_2nv]

I would check the PCV valve at least and probably just replace it, before condemning the engine. I've never had it happen to me, but I've heard of other people burning oil because of a bad PCV valve. Also make sure there isn't an oil leak that you haven't noticed (to go through that much it would have to be a rear main seal or something - I've had lots of valve cover gaskets leak and it never amounted to much oil lost). If it turns out it is the engine I would try 20w50 if I wasn't in a position to replace the engine yet.

 

[Jetsfan421]

First thing you should do is compression test and invest in a borescope. Valvoline premium blue restore has shown some potential to slow the oil consumption in even gas vehicles. Others here might also recommend kreen, high mileage oils, piston soaks, and various additives that claim to slow or stop oil consumption.

 

[demarpaint]

I'd replace the PCV valve with an OE valve. If that doesn't help I would do a compression test. If you're unsure of the readings post them here. That should take some of the guess work of what's causing the high oil use.

 

[HyundaiAbuser]

It is just hitting 150000 with the ford 4.0. I'll get a new pcv after this weekends hunting trip then report back. I am also curious what exactly high mileage packages do to stop oil burning since it appeared not to do so before switching.

 

[caprice_2nv]

I don't think that high mileage oils have much of an affect on oil burning. They may slow leaking from some seals and might tend to be a bit thicker than the non high mileage variant of the same oil.

 

[nlife]

I'd stick to conventional dino oil if it's burning the amount you've said it was. Synthetics tend to coat the plugs and give you issues.

Neil

 

[HyundaiAbuser]

another weird thing is it starts right up when its cold but after warming up it takes a considerable amount longer, maybe 3-4 times as long, to start.

 

[caprice_2nv]

Originally Posted by HyundaiAbuser
another weird thing is it starts right up when its cold but after warming up it takes a considerable amount longer, maybe 3-4 times as long, to start.


That could be a lot of things. A weak ignition coil (if it's not coil on plug), a crank position sensor on the way out (both could potentially be made more noticeable when hot) or it could be a bad coolant Temp sensor that's out of range when hot, etc

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted by Kira
Which engine in the B4000 and how many miles?



b4000 of that year is the 4.0ohv

they used the same engines as the ford ranger
so a 2002 b4000 would be the 4.0sohc for example.

b3000 would be the 3.0 vulcan etc

They also had 4 cyl models such as the b2300 and b2500

 

[danez_yoda]

Starting good cold but not hot could be fuel injectors sticking open and running rich. Cold engines like the extra fuel, hot one will partially flood because the fuel/air ratio is too rich.

Whens the last time your fuel injectors were cleaned? might try a cleaner.

 

[ka9mnx]

"...just recently started burning a noticeable amount of oil."

Definitely PCV. Plugged air filter can also be a problem.

 

[RDY4WAR]

As has been mentioned, replace the PCV and see if that helps.

Going to a thicker oil may slow it down, but could also make it worse. If it's getting past the rings, a thicker oil film could actually increase transport past the rings.

If it continues to be an issue after the PCV change, perhaps a run with a high ester oil like VPBR may be in order.

 

[Mad_Hatter]

1qt every 750miles?.. that's a money pit. Unless you can use it around the property to doing low hrs/mileage stuff like moving lumber or making dump runs, it's not worth putting much into it aside from a thicker oil. With that kind of oil usage it's not rings alone or the pcv, it's likely your valve seals are shot and there's not a HiMi oil in the world that can help (the seals are badly worn and oil is being sucked down into the combustion chamber)... that train has left the station my friend.

 

[Mad_Hatter]

Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
I don't think that high mileage oils have much of an affect on oil burning. They may slow leaking from some seals and might tend to be a bit thicker than the non high mileage variant of the same oil.

The 2nd half of your post contradicts or at the very least answers, the first half of your post.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

QS or Pennzoil High Mileage conventional. in 5w or 10w 30.

NO THICKER.

Cylinders should not be worn, likely valve stem seals have hardened and gone.

Stay away from diesel oil or silly heavy stuff or additives.

Check the PCV and the PVC air inlet filter and piping if it has one

No need to buy a new PCV you can just clean with gas or kero.

The rattle pill in there is just an anti backfire protector;

I don't think my chevy 4.3 VORTEC in a Silverado w/t even had a pill.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

How long does the truck take to accumulate 750 miles?
$23 for a five quart jug of Castrol 0w40 - used for top-offs, could last you six months. I wouldn't get rid of the Mazda because of that.