On a smaller scale, the front grill needs to come off my pickup to change a headlight bulb.
More govt motors garbage!
- Thread starter Chris142
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I wanted to put a lower tem t-stat in the silverado. it is $78 and it is an assembly of other parts. What was wrong with the $8 stant thermostat that they used for like 30 years. I'll bet you shekels that it is due to the mileage/epa concerns trumping servicability
Originally Posted by Chris142
And my wife wonders why I'm always in a foul mood!
And my wife wonders why I'm always in a foul mood!
Yep, won't be your last one of these either.
I think it was the summer before last when the backorder was REAL bad from GM on these. Around two months if I remember right. An aftermarket vendor got some, and GM was actually allowing us to buy them for warranty work because customers with $70k Suburbans were livid about not having AC. Once the aftermarket vendor figured this out, they doubled the price.
I think it was the summer before last when the backorder was REAL bad from GM on these. Around two months if I remember right. An aftermarket vendor got some, and GM was actually allowing us to buy them for warranty work because customers with $70k Suburbans were livid about not having AC. Once the aftermarket vendor figured this out, they doubled the price.
*Remove the Air Box & Air Intake Tube.
*Remove the 2 13mm headed bolts retaining the Radiator to the header panel.
*Lean the Radiator back.
*Remove Condenser Shroud/Baffle.
*Unhook both Trans Cooler lines.
*Remove the 10mm headed bolt from the Condenser Line stay bracket.
*Remove the 13mm headed nut holding the suction & liquid line to the condenser.
*Unclip the condenser from the radiator & lift the condenser up between the radiator & header panel support bar.
It should take you @ 1 hour the first time you do it this way! (From raising the hood to drawing a vacuum on the system), Then you will have it down to 30 after a couple more times!
I for one......Love these, It pays 4.5 hours NOT including Recovery, Evac, & Recharge. While it's sucking down.....I pull another job in & get started on that!
Of coarse this doesn't matter if your getting paid by the hour or are on Salary, If you work in a busy shop.....Maybe it's time to negotiate a fair Flat Rate?
If you work in a slow shop, Maybe it's time to seek employment elsewhere.
If your struggling with repairs more often than not.....You either need training, Pursue a different career path, Or a change of scenery(work elsewhere).
In closing.....Lay off the brand bashing, Your a professional right? Act like it!
***I don't have the experience, tools or training to work on European cars, So I DON'T work on them!!! I don't like to repair Nissan's because the lack of service/repair information available in Mitchell & AllData. Some Non-Ford based Mazda's can be the same way!
*Remove the 2 13mm headed bolts retaining the Radiator to the header panel.
*Lean the Radiator back.
*Remove Condenser Shroud/Baffle.
*Unhook both Trans Cooler lines.
*Remove the 10mm headed bolt from the Condenser Line stay bracket.
*Remove the 13mm headed nut holding the suction & liquid line to the condenser.
*Unclip the condenser from the radiator & lift the condenser up between the radiator & header panel support bar.
It should take you @ 1 hour the first time you do it this way! (From raising the hood to drawing a vacuum on the system), Then you will have it down to 30 after a couple more times!
I for one......Love these, It pays 4.5 hours NOT including Recovery, Evac, & Recharge. While it's sucking down.....I pull another job in & get started on that!
Of coarse this doesn't matter if your getting paid by the hour or are on Salary, If you work in a busy shop.....Maybe it's time to negotiate a fair Flat Rate?
If you work in a slow shop, Maybe it's time to seek employment elsewhere.
If your struggling with repairs more often than not.....You either need training, Pursue a different career path, Or a change of scenery(work elsewhere).
In closing.....Lay off the brand bashing, Your a professional right? Act like it!
***I don't have the experience, tools or training to work on European cars, So I DON'T work on them!!! I don't like to repair Nissan's because the lack of service/repair information available in Mitchell & AllData. Some Non-Ford based Mazda's can be the same way!
What's the price tag on that repair, about a grand?
Originally Posted by clinebarger
*Remove the Air Box & Air Intake Tube.
*Remove the 2 13mm headed bolts retaining the Radiator to the header panel.
*Lean the Radiator back.
*Remove Condenser Shroud/Baffle.
*Unhook both Trans Cooler lines.
*Remove the 10mm headed bolt from the Condenser Line stay bracket.
*Remove the 13mm headed nut holding the suction & liquid line to the condenser.
*Unclip the condenser from the radiator & lift the condenser up between the radiator & header panel support bar.
It should take you @ 1 hour the first time you do it this way! (From raising the hood to drawing a vacuum on the system), Then you will have it down to 30 after a couple more times!
I for one......Love these, It pays 4.5 hours NOT including Recovery, Evac, & Recharge. While it's sucking down.....I pull another job in & get started on that!
Of coarse this doesn't matter if your getting paid by the hour or are on Salary, If you work in a busy shop.....Maybe it's time to negotiate a fair Flat Rate?
If you work in a slow shop, Maybe it's time to seek employment elsewhere.
If your struggling with repairs more often than not.....You either need training, Pursue a different career path, Or a change of scenery(work elsewhere).
In closing.....Lay off the brand bashing, Your a professional right? Act like it!
***I don't have the experience, tools or training to work on European cars, So I DON'T work on them!!! I don't like to repair Nissan's because the lack of service/repair information available in Mitchell & AllData. Some Non-Ford based Mazda's can be the same way!
I tried that way for 3 hrs. Its just not accessable that way. I don't know if the California models are that much different or what.
*Remove the Air Box & Air Intake Tube.
*Remove the 2 13mm headed bolts retaining the Radiator to the header panel.
*Lean the Radiator back.
*Remove Condenser Shroud/Baffle.
*Unhook both Trans Cooler lines.
*Remove the 10mm headed bolt from the Condenser Line stay bracket.
*Remove the 13mm headed nut holding the suction & liquid line to the condenser.
*Unclip the condenser from the radiator & lift the condenser up between the radiator & header panel support bar.
It should take you @ 1 hour the first time you do it this way! (From raising the hood to drawing a vacuum on the system), Then you will have it down to 30 after a couple more times!
I for one......Love these, It pays 4.5 hours NOT including Recovery, Evac, & Recharge. While it's sucking down.....I pull another job in & get started on that!
Of coarse this doesn't matter if your getting paid by the hour or are on Salary, If you work in a busy shop.....Maybe it's time to negotiate a fair Flat Rate?
If you work in a slow shop, Maybe it's time to seek employment elsewhere.
If your struggling with repairs more often than not.....You either need training, Pursue a different career path, Or a change of scenery(work elsewhere).
In closing.....Lay off the brand bashing, Your a professional right? Act like it!
***I don't have the experience, tools or training to work on European cars, So I DON'T work on them!!! I don't like to repair Nissan's because the lack of service/repair information available in Mitchell & AllData. Some Non-Ford based Mazda's can be the same way!
I tried that way for 3 hrs. Its just not accessable that way. I don't know if the California models are that much different or what.
I ended up doing it like this. Our all data was completely wrong!
https://youtu.be/dbEo6tiwCOw
https://youtu.be/dbEo6tiwCOw
Originally Posted by Chris142
I tried that way for 3 hrs. Its just not accessable that way. I don't know if the California models are that much different or what.
What was the hang-up? Automakers rarely do "California/CARB Specific Models" anymore with several other states conforming to CARB standards.
I tried that way for 3 hrs. Its just not accessable that way. I don't know if the California models are that much different or what.
What was the hang-up? Automakers rarely do "California/CARB Specific Models" anymore with several other states conforming to CARB standards.
Originally Posted by Chris142
I ended up doing it like this. Our all data was completely wrong!
https://youtu.be/dbEo6tiwCOw
Alldata/GM FSM both state to remove the front fascia & both headlight assemblies, Now.....The information in AllData IS broken-up in a very inefficient manner, You have to click on all the sub-assembly repairs.
Removing the headlight assemblies requires removal of the front fascia for example......
I ended up doing it like this. Our all data was completely wrong!
https://youtu.be/dbEo6tiwCOw
Alldata/GM FSM both state to remove the front fascia & both headlight assemblies, Now.....The information in AllData IS broken-up in a very inefficient manner, You have to click on all the sub-assembly repairs.
Removing the headlight assemblies requires removal of the front fascia for example......
Ya I printed all that out. We fought everything trying to get it out the back. Trans lines,clips that hold the condenser to the radiator,battery trays etc. Gave up and went in like the video
This is the main reason why I chose not to buy one of these K2XX Suburbans. It's been a disaster from day one with these condensers. I remember reading stories a few years ago where people were driving around with no A/C all summer because the condenser was backordered for months.
Originally Posted by csandste
In this century I've owned a bunch of HyunKia's and some GM stuff. Although I keep my fingers crossed about spectacular HyunKia failures-- fires, exploding engines, etc.-- each has been bulletproof. GM cars have been plagued by small replacements that are part of large units, hard to replace. Power steering electrical units, fuse blocks cause of one bad fuse connection, pcv valves that require large parts of engines to be replaced, etc. No lemons, but each of the GM cars have run me over a thousand in stupid stuff.
Same here. Hyundai in my sig has been flawless
, GM junk we have owned was just one thing after another.
In this century I've owned a bunch of HyunKia's and some GM stuff. Although I keep my fingers crossed about spectacular HyunKia failures-- fires, exploding engines, etc.-- each has been bulletproof. GM cars have been plagued by small replacements that are part of large units, hard to replace. Power steering electrical units, fuse blocks cause of one bad fuse connection, pcv valves that require large parts of engines to be replaced, etc. No lemons, but each of the GM cars have run me over a thousand in stupid stuff.
Same here. Hyundai in my sig has been flawless
I used love techs that complained. I would take their job to go on top of mine. I made money and they starved. I got so good at Cadillac servo motors that I could do them in a couple of hours with warranty paying 7 hrs with most I done was 3 in one day. Service writer wanted me to show other technicians how to do it quickly and I laughed.
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Originally Posted by emmett442
Your job is just a means to afford your life outside of it. It's just a paycheck (it should be, anyway).
grateful I don't have that kind of attitude about something you spend at least 40 hours a week doing.
But it's true. After all, you'd never have donated your time to them if they laid you off and I assume you aren't donating your time to them as a retiree.
Nothing wrong with enjoying what you do. But if one complains about work and can't figure out how to leave work at work and let home be home, they're in the wrong profession. Not a healthy way to live!
Originally Posted by emmett442
Your job is just a means to afford your life outside of it. It's just a paycheck (it should be, anyway).
grateful I don't have that kind of attitude about something you spend at least 40 hours a week doing.
But it's true. After all, you'd never have donated your time to them if they laid you off and I assume you aren't donating your time to them as a retiree.
Nothing wrong with enjoying what you do. But if one complains about work and can't figure out how to leave work at work and let home be home, they're in the wrong profession. Not a healthy way to live!
Originally Posted by NoNameJoe
Originally Posted by 28oz
Originally Posted by NoNameJoe
I don't know if this tops Nissan/Infiniti, who used to (and maybe still does) use those combo radiator/condenser units. Want to remove the radiator? Got to remove the condenser too. Radiator failed? Have to purge the AC system to replace it.
I've never heard of nor seen a combo unit on a Nissan. What years/models are you referring to?
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v36-2007-08/461107-radiator-crack.html#post7117828
Interesting. I owned a G35 coupe briefly, but never had issues with the radiator or AC. Thank goodness, apparently, lol. Have never seen that design on the other multitudes of Nissans I've owned or serviced. Thanks for the info.
Originally Posted by 28oz
Originally Posted by NoNameJoe
I don't know if this tops Nissan/Infiniti, who used to (and maybe still does) use those combo radiator/condenser units. Want to remove the radiator? Got to remove the condenser too. Radiator failed? Have to purge the AC system to replace it.
I've never heard of nor seen a combo unit on a Nissan. What years/models are you referring to?
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v36-2007-08/461107-radiator-crack.html#post7117828
Interesting. I owned a G35 coupe briefly, but never had issues with the radiator or AC. Thank goodness, apparently, lol. Have never seen that design on the other multitudes of Nissans I've owned or serviced. Thanks for the info.
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