GM Fan Clutches - Are These The Same Parts?

[Fitz98]

I got a part number from a stealership for my 03 Suburban 5.3
20919877 for 470.00.
Amazon has a GM Genuine for 135.00 but the part number is 154694.
Amazon Fan Clutch 154694
Rock Auto has both these part numbers listed, for this part, so I am assuming they are the same?
Rock Auto Fan Clutch
Amazon also has the 20913877 part for 240.00 and will take longer to get and is 100.00 more
Amazon Fan Clutch - 20913877
Are these the same parts?

I don't want to take any chances on inferior parts. I am trying to correct an AC issue at idle and low speeds and need to rule out the fan as the potential problem.

 

[brianl703]

I don't want to take any chances on inferior parts. I am trying to correct an AC issue at idle and low speeds and need to rule out the fan as the potential problem.

Try hosing the condenser down with water, if that doesn't fix the AC issue at idle, a new fan clutch definitely won't.

 

[DriveHard]

Don't fan clutches usually fail fully ON? Every car I have owned with one has failed ON, and you can clearly hear the roar.

 

[Fitz98]

Interesting strategy. I have to duplicate the problem to try that.
I just tried, but the conditions are not hot enough to make the problem occur.
One thing I did notice while trying this is that while at idle, with controls set at 60, the temp at the vent is 70. When I increase RPM to 2500 in park, the temp at the vent drops to 60 rather quickly.
These are under conditions where the AC is not failing completely (I have a different post regarding that and some advice was to change fan clutch, which made sense to me)

 

[Fitz98]

Don't fan clutches usually fail fully ON? Every car I have owned with one has failed ON, and you can clearly hear the roar.

I never hear that roar, even on startup. I had a similar situation on the Expedition, changed the fan clutch and the roar definitely appeared, but no improvement to AC performance on very hot days.

 

[kschachn]

I never hear that roar, even on startup. I had a similar situation on the Expedition, changed the fan clutch and the roar definitely appeared, but no improvement to AC performance on very hot days.

You should hear it at startup, at least that's how it was with my BMW. If you don't then it may mean the clutch is slipping so bad as to not be driving proper airflow.

And for what it's worth there was a difference between inexpensive and more expensive clutches for my car. The more expensive ones (Behr or BMW branded) ones used a perfluorocarbon fluid and tended to operate the fan at the correct RPM rather than incorrect.

Is your clutch electric or mechanical?

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Don't fan clutches usually fail fully ON? Every car I have owned with one has failed ON, and you can clearly hear the roar.

Generally, yes. But I've had them fail and just freewheel.

 

[dumkid]

we had a 2002 suburban, the fan wouldn't lock up completely and so it wouldn't pull enough air at idle, giving the same symptoms as the OP. duralast fan clutch fixed it.

the fan would still lock up a little bit and roar at higher rpm, it was just too weak at idle

 

[D60]

I've only experienced the lock-up problem on an electrically controlled Ford 6.2.

Otherwise I've experienced them get too weak to lock sufficiently and/or of course wobble not attributable to water pump bearings.

If your blades are plastic I'd lean toward also replacing, but only OEM or comparable quality (if possible) like maybe Valeo, etc

 

[Soft Cars]

The 154694 part number is for Suburbans without A/C.

 

[PontiacHO]

GM fan clutch mod.

http://midamericachevelles.com/tech/fan_clutch_adjust.pdf

 

[390pcode]

20913877 is the one you want.
I put the Hayden 2786 severe duty on my 2000 Suburban 2500 6.0- same application as yours- 20913877
You will definitely hear it.
80k miles later, 13 years old it still works fine in severe heat/towing over 10k lbs.

 

[Dinoburner]

The electric fan clutch in a 2004 Trailblazer we had failed and the new replacement needed to be reprogramed or so we were told, we didn`t and it functioned a little differently but didn`tt overheat so we left it as is since it was at 180,000 miles and soon to be replaced. Diagnostics were done to make sure the clutch was actually the problem.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

154694 is the part I recently put on my 2001 Silverado. Rock Auto mistakenly lists it as an electronic clutch, but it is the part specified for A/C vehicles, even the 2500 6.0 Suburban for your year. I searched 20913877, and it came back as a cross to 154694.

I think Clinebarger posted once about a King Kong van fan clutch, but 154694 should be what you want for all but the most severe of severe duty.

My OEM clutch failed by getting weak and not moving enough air by about 140k miles. It only made noise after quite a bit of driving on a hot day. Engine temps stayed consistent, but the A/C was weak at idle. As I said in your other thread, a high temp reading in a school pickup line finally got me to change the clutch, and the air has been cold ever since.

Here's Clinebarger's comment, post #7:
Severe Duty Fan Clutch

"Use a Express/Savana 3500 6.0L Fan Clutch part# 25744727.....It's a direct replacement & seriously outperforms a GMT800 clutch without the roaring!"

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

FYI, I searched part# 25744727 on Rock Auto and it came up with a cross to 154930. It appears to be 20 mm wider than 15694, but all other dimensions are the same. If that's a heavier-duty clutch for vans, it could be just the thing for you in Florida, depending on how you use the Suburban.